P»a»^;p;j B3 g|rte%^^ 






^■s^^aasssE 



'i-^-ii 












J^ 







/ 



•.»« »r>- *!"■»*'■ -■*»■'«"'■'* 



Price 50 Ce?.iS5 



The Outinq Pubusiiinq Co., 



HowTork. 



INTKRKAT1.0»A',. «£y-V5 CO, 



F CANNOT LEAVE THE LIBRARY. ^1 

^ ^: 

P COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. i 



§m, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



9m 



BOAT SAILING, 

FAIR WEATHER AND FOUL 



r 




L 






OUTING LIBRARY OF SPORT. 

Boat Sailing 



IN 



FAIR WEATHER AND FOUL. 



BY 



CAPTAIN A. J. KENEALY. 



' Man made him a boat of a hollow tree, 
And thus became lord of the bounding- sea.' 




IQOS. 

SIXTH EOITTON. 
REVISkD 



WITH ILL US TRA Ti ONS A ND DIA GPA A^J 



THE OUTING PUBLISHING CO., 

NEW YORK. LONDON. 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS. 

Two Copies Receivefll 

JUN 30 1903 

Bright Entry 
, Ct XXc N«. 

COPY A. 



0-v 

.HA G5 



Copyrighted by 
The Outing Publishing Company, 1903, 

NEW YORK. 



PREFACE. 

WHEN the first edition of this little 
book was printed in 1 894 my pub- 
lishers thought they would be 
very lucky if they ever disposed 
of half the number of copies turned out 
by the press. I had the same melancholy 
forebodings. The result has shown that 
our fears were groundless. The book 
was written in a simple sailorly style for 
all lovers of the sea and boats. That it 
should have received such cordial com- 
mendation as it has from amateurs and 
professionals has been both a pleasure 
and a surprise. In sending it out on its 
sixth edition, I cannot lose the oppor- 
tunity of thanking my critics who have 
been very flattering to whatever merits 
it may possess. 

A. J. Kenealy. 

New York, April, 1903 > 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER 1. 

Preliminary Hints to an Amateur with Ambitions 
Toward Owning a Boat— Why He Ought t^ Join 
a Yacht Club— Handiness of the Cat-Rig 15 

CHAPTER II. 

The Choice of a Boat— Advantages of Stationary 
Ballast and a Centerboard— How to Avoid Being 
'' Done " in a Boat Trade— Bargains at the Navy 
Yard— The Way to Cure a "Nail-Sick" Craft... 22 

CHAPTER III. 

Trial Spin in a Cat-Boat— How to Get Under Way, 
Beat to Windward and Run Back, with Instruc- 
tions How to Act if Caught in a Squall or 
Stranded on a Shoal, and How to Avoid Col- 
lisions and Come to Anchor 28 

CHAPTER IV. 

Advantages of the Yawl-Rig for General Cruising 
Purposes, especially when '' Single Handed," 
with a Description of a Representative Craft — 
Disadvantages of the Ballast Fin for All Pur- 
poses Except Racing— The Fin in Model Yacht- 
mg Years Ago 27 

CHAPTER V. 

The Popularity of the Knockabout as an Excellent 
Cruising Craft, with Some Observations on the 
One-design Classes from Schooners t© Dories 55 

CHAPTER VI. 

Keep Your Weather-Eve Open All the Time When 
Afloat— How to Handle a Boat in Heavy Weather 
or a Summer Squall— The Use of the Sea Anchor 
in Riding Out a Gale, and How Shipwreck May 
Be Avoided by the Judicious Use of Oil 65 

CHAPTER VII. 

Overhauling the Yacht— Practical Instructions for 
Cleaning and Painting the Craft Inside and Out, 
with Hints on the Care of Hull, Spars, Canvas 
and Running gear 88 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Fitting Out for a Cruise— Hints on Equipping and 
Provisioning a Boat so as to be Prepared for All 
Emergencies — A Sailor's Solution of the Culinary 
Problem— Hot ''Grub " in a Gale 1x5 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Beating to Windward— The Theory and Practice of 
Sailing a Vessel Against the Breeze 128 

CHAPTER X. 

Combination Rowing and Sailing Boats— The Jib 
and Mainsail vSprit, Leg-of-Mutton, Cat, Balance 
Lug and Sliding Gunter-Rigs — The Folding 
Center board 140 

CHAPTER XI. 

Rigging and Sails, with Some Impartial Remarks 
on the Lanyard and the Deadeye, as Opposed to 
the Turnbuckle— Standing and Running Gear, 
and the Bending and Setting of Canvas 155 

CHAPTER XH. 

Laying Up for the Winter — Practical Suggestions 
for Protecting a Boat and Her Gear from the 
Stress of Our Inclement Climate — A Plea for 
Trustworthy Skippers and Engmeers 168 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Useful Hints and Recipes, with Some Remarks on 
the Buying of a Binocular Marine Glass, from 
the " Brain-Pan '' of a Practical Sailor 175 

CHAPTER XIV. 

The Rule of the Road at Sea : Being a Digest of the 
Present International Regulations for Preventing 
Collisions on Oceans and in Harbors 185 

CHAPTER XV. 

The Mariner's Compass, with Remarks on Devia- 
tion, Variation, Leeway, etc 192 , 

CHAPTER XVL 

Charts, with Some Hints as to Navigation by Dead- 
reckoning— Lead, Log^ and Lookout 203 

CHAPTER XVn. 

Marlinespike Seamanship : Being Practical Instruc- 
tions in the Art of Making the Splices, Knots and 
Bends in Ordinary Use 207 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Weather Wrinkles from the Scientific Point of View 
of Professional Meteorologists and also Jack 
Tar 217 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Sea Cookery for Yachtsmen 223 

CHAPTER XX. 

Nautical Terms in Common Use, from which all 
Obsolete and Antiquated Terms, such as were in 
use aboard the Ark, have been eliminated -^36 

Addenda— Tlecent Changes of Sail Plan and Rig- 
ging in Modern Craft 248 



ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS. 



Frontispiece. Tur?iing the Stake. PAGE 

Yawl in a Squall, - - - - . - - 41 

Latest Type of Fin-Keel, . . - . ^q 

Sail Plan of Modern Fin-Keel, - - - - 54 

Seawanhaka, 21-foot Knockabout, - 56 

Seawanhaka Knockabout, - . - - - 57 

Sail Plan Seawanhaka Knockabout, - - 58 

Drogue, or Sea Anchor, - - - - - 70 

Diagram of Floating Anchor, - - - 71 

Floating Anchor in Use, - - - - - 72 

The Boston Knockabout, Gosling^ - - - 75 

Plan of Oil Distributor, - - - - - 80 

In Dry Dock, -....- g8 

Hauled Out for Painting, - - - .98 

Making Ready for a New Dress, - - - 114 

Pleasant Cat-Boat Sailing, - - - - 119 

Sailing Under Varying Conditions of Wind - 128 

Running Before the Wind - - - - 130 

Gybing »---.-- 131 

Close Hauled on Port Tack .... 132 

Close, Hauled on Starboard Tack, - - 133 

Dead Beat to Windward - - - - 134 

A Long Leg and a Short Leg - - - 138 

The Manoeuvre of Tacking - - - - 139 

Whip Purchase and Traveler, - - - 140 

Jib and Mainsail Rig, - - -. - - 141 

Sprit Rig, ...... 143 

Leg-of-Mutton Rig, - - - - - 147 

Cat Rig, - - - - . - - 148 

Balance Lug Rig, - - - - - - 150 

Sliding Gunter Rig, ----- 151 

Detail of Sliding Gunter Rig, - - - 152 

Folding Centerboard, - - - - 154 

Shroud, Deadeye, Lanyard, - - - - 156 

Turnbuckle, ---.-. 157 

Topmast Rigging, - - - - - 158 

Rig of Running Bowsprit, - - - - 159 

Horse for Main Sheet, - - - - - i6r 

Gear for Hauling Out Loose-footed Mainsail, 166 

Luncheon in the Cock-pit, - - -- - 179 

Scowing an Anchor, - - - - » 180 

''Half Raters," 184 

The Compass, - - - - - - 193 

Marlinespike, ..---. 207 

Knots and Splices, - - - - 208 

Cautionary Signals, • - • - - 221 

Storm Signals, .•..-»• 222 

A Yachtsman's Stove, - - - - 223 

The Ideal Fry-pan, ----- 225 

A Nest of Stew-Pans, ----- 227 

Ice Tub, ------- 229 

A Traveling Companion, - - - - 231 

The Sloop Yacht, 246 

The Cutter Yacht, 247 

The Sail Plan and Rig of a Modern Schooner, - 249 

The Sail Plan and Rig of a Modern Yawl, - - 251 




TURNING THE STAKE. 



L 



ADVICE TO AN AMATEUR. 




LL of us remember the 
old sailor's retort to the 
man who reproached 
him for soaking his clay 
in bad rum. ^' There 
ain't such a thing under 
heaven as badxMva^'' he 
sagely remarked. " Of 
course some rum is better than another, 
but I have been knocking about the 
world for more than fifty years and 
never did I drink a glass of rum that 
deserved to be called bad^ and I got 
outside of some pretty fiery tipple in 
my time." 

The same is true in a general way of 
boats. There are many types of boat 
and each has some peculiar attribute to 
recommend it. No two craft, for in- 
stance, could be more widely different 
in every way than a Gloucester fishing 
dory and a Cape Cod cat-boat, yet each 
when properly handled has safely rid- 
den out an Atlantic gale. Of course if 



16 BOAT SAILING, 

their movements had been directed by 
farm hands both would have foundered. 
In point of fact, there is no royal road 
to the acquisition of seamanship. Ex- 
perience is what is needed first, last and 
all the time. It is true, however, that 
the rough sea over which the learner 
has necessarily to sail may be smoothed 
for him, even as the breakers on a harbor 
bar are rendered passable for a home- 
ward-bound craft by the judicious ap-^ 
plication of a little oil. 

The choice of a boat depends upon a 
vast variety of circumstances, the chief 
of which is the location of the prospect- 
ive boat owner. If he lives on the 
Great South Bay, for example, he should 
provide himself with a craft of light 
draught, almost capable of sailing on a 
clover field after a heavy fall of dew. 
Equipped with a centerboard and a sail 
a boat of this kind, if of the right shape 
and construction, will be found comfort- 
able, safe and of moderate speed. A 
man may also enjoy an infinite amount 
of pleasure aboard her, after he has 
mastered the secret of her management. 
There are so many sandbars in the 
Great South Bay that a boat of light 
draught is indispensable to successful 
sailing. The same -remark applies also 
to Barnegat Bay and adjacent New 
Jersey waters. There are some persons 
who believe that it is impossible to com- 
bine light draught and safety. They 
make a great mistake. A twelve-foot 
sneakbox in Barnegat Bay, with the 
right man steering, will live for a long 



ADVICE TO AN AMATEUR. VI 

time in rough water that would sorely 
try the capacity of a much larger craft 
in the hands of a lubber. The same is 
true of a sharpie. 

The man who makes up his mind that 
be wants a sailing boat should study 
well the geography of his vicinity. If 
he lives in New York or on the Sound 
his course is easy. He is sure to be 
within reach of a yacht or boat club from 
whose members he can get all the infor-^ 
mation he needs. They will tell him 
the boat best adapted to his require- 
ments and his finances, and if they per- 
suade him to join their organization they 
will be conferring upon him a favor. I 
have traveled a good deal among the 
yacht clubs of New York, New Jersey 
and Connecticut, and I never came 
across a more generous, more obliging 
and more sportsmanlike body of men 
than those enrolled on the rosters of 
these enterprising associations. They 
are convinced that there is more real 
pleasure to the square inch in the pos- 
. session of a stout boat capable of being 
managed by a couple of men, than there 
is in the proprietorship of a big yacht 
that carries a crew of twenty and whose 
owner probably knows nothing about 
the art of sailing her, but depends all the 
time on his skipper. It is a pleasure to 
meet these men and listen to their yarns. 
The earnestness, the zeal and the ability, 
with which they pursue their favor- 
ite pastime are indeed commendable, 
And .the best of it is they are always 
ready to welcome recruits, and to pass 



18 BOAT SAILING. 

them through the rudimentary mill of 
seamanship and navigation, their motto 
being *^ Every man his own skipper." 
The only requisite necessary to mem- 
bership in one or more of these clubs is 
that you should be a "clubable" man 
with manly instincts. Young fellows, 
too, are eagerly sought, so you need have 
no compunction about seeking their 
doors, the latchstrings of which are al- 
ways down. 

By all means join a club, I say. You 
get all the advantages of the house and 
the anchorage, and all the benefits that 
accrue to association with men who are 
ardent and enthusiastic in the enjoy- 
ment of their pet diversion. Besides — 
let me whisper a word in your ear, my 
brother, you of the slender purse or 
may be economic instincts — it will be 
cheaper for you in the end ; it will put 
money in your purse. Your boat will 
be looked after all the year round by 
watchful guardians, who will see that it 
isn*t stripped or rifled by river pirates, 
and that the elements do not mar its 
beauty. I confess I was surprised when 
I learned how little it costs to become 
entitled to all the privileges of these 
clubs, and it is owing to their moderate 
charges that the " mosquito fleet " in 
the vicinity of New York is growing so 
big and interest in the sport is increas- 
ing so rapidly. 

What I have written of New York 
is true, perhaps, in a greater measure of 
Boston. There is no finer sheet of 
water for boat sailing than Boston Bay, 



AD VICE TO AN AM A TEUR, 19 

and no people in the world are more 
devoted to the sport than those who 
dwell in the city of culture and its sea- 
washed environs. There are plenty of 
yacht clubs between Point AUerton, 
on the south, and Marblehead, on the 
north. It has been ascertained that 
more than five thousand members 
have joined these organizations and 
that nineteen hundred yachts are en- 
rolled on their lists, most of the craft 
being less than twenty feet on the water 
line. It will thus be seen that Boston 
fully appreciates the value of small 
sailing craft as a means of amusement 
and healthful recreation. The port 
from which Volunteer, Mayflower and 
Puritan originally hailed, though justly 
proud of those three magnificent racing 
yachts, has always been distinguished 
for turning out stout, able and sea- 
worthy vessels of the smaller type, and 
also for breeding a sturdy race of men 
who know every trick of seamanship. 
The majority of the boats are so con- 
structed and rigged as to ensure that 
they will render a good account of 
themselves in a blow and a seaway. 
Thus the '' sandbagger " type of vessel 
is rarely found ^^down eavSt," and this, 
in my opinion, need not be regretted. 

The catrigged boat, with stationary 
ballast and a centerboard, may be said 
to be the type generally preferred in 
those waters. The Newport cat-boat is 
famous the world over for her handi- 
ness, speed and ability. I know that it is 
fashionable for scientific men and swell 



20 BOAT SAILING, 

naval architects to decry the seaworth- 
iness of these boats. It has been urged 
that the weight of the mast in the eyes 
of the craft is a serious objection, a strain 
on the hull, and not unlikely to be car- 
ried away for want of proper staying. 
The long boom also has been objected 
to, because of its liability to trip. The 
craft has been declared difficult to steer 
and a regular '' yawer." But while say- 
ing unkind things of the cat-boat's be- 
havior in a blow, no critic, however 
biased, has ventured to deny her gen- 
eral handiness. 

I might remind these gentlemen that 
the owner of a pleasure boat does not 
as a rule sail her in a blow or in a sea- 
way, but this would not be a fair or 
legitimate argument. The elements 
are treacherous. A summer storm often 
plays havoc among the shipping, and a 
man who ventures seaward in the morn- 
ing in a balm}^ breeze and with the 
water smooth as a horsepond may be 
caught in a savage blow, followed by a 
heavy sea, both of which may sorely try 
the capabilities of his craft and his own 
resources as a seaman. 

I am such a devout believer, however, 
in a cat-boat of proper form and rig, that 
I will defend her as a good and handy 
craft in both fair weather and foul. It 
blows hard in Narragansett Bay some- 
times, and I have often known a devil 
of a sea to be kicked up off Brenton's 
Reef lightship. But the Newport cat- 
boat, with a couple of reefs down, comes 
out of the harbor and dances over the 



ADVICE TO AN AMATEUR, 21 

Steep waves like a duck or a cork. I 
never saw one of them come to grief, 
and in fact they have always impressed 
me as being the handiest all-roumd boat 
afloat, i have sailed in them in all sorts 
of weather, and I am not likely to alter 
my opinion. Many of the objections 
raised against them are idle. For in- 
stance, the mast can be so stayed as tc 
be perfectly secure. There is also no 
reason why the boom should project so 
far over the stern as to trip, and in this 
connection I should like to ask of what 
use is a topping lift unless one avails 
himself of it in just such an emergency ? 
A man should always keep the boom 
well topped up when running before 
the wind in a seaway, and by this means 
he may avoid much trouble and pos- 
sibly peril. 

The above remarks are applicable to 
both salt water and fresh water, to the 
yachts of the North, the South, as well 
as of the Great and Little Lakes, and 
indeed wherever the glorious sport 
flourishes. In point of fact, all the hints 
and directions given in these chapters 
may be followed with profit on the 
Pacific Coast as well as on the Atlantic 
Seaboard, on Lake Michigan or on the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence, 



II. 

THE CHOICE OF A BOAT. 

IF any ambitious would-be mariner, 
old or young, hailing from anywhere 
were to ask me what sort of a boat 
I w^ould recommend him to build 
or buy, I would answer him frankly 
that an able cat-boat, with a center- 
board and stationary ballast w^ould, 
in my judgment, be best. I would ad- 
vise him to shun the ^* sandbaggers " — 
not that one cannot enjoy an immense 
amount of exciting sport in one of them, 
but because they seem to me to be only 
fit for racing, and I will tell you why. 
A man when he goes on a quiet cruise 
doesn't want to be bothered by having 
to shift heavy bags of sand every time 
the boat goes about. It is too much 
like hard work, and by the time your 
day's fun is finished you feel stiff in the 
joints. I have other arguments against 
the use of shifting ballast, but do not 
think any other save the one mentioned 
is necessary. 

This point disposed of, let us confer. 
Of what shall the stationary ballast for 
our able cat-boat consist ? Outside lead 
is of course the best, but its first cost is 
a serious matter. A cast-iron false keel 
or shoe answers admirably, and is mod- 
erate in price. Some persons object to 
it, claiming that it rusts and corrodes; 



THE CHOICE OF A BOA T. 'Z'6 

that its fastenings decay the wooden 
keel to which it is bolted, and that its 
weight strains a boat and soon causes 
her to become leaky. There is of course 
some truth in these charges; but if the 
boat is built by a mechanic and not at.' 
impostor, none of these disadvantagei^ 
will exist, and the cast-iron keel will 
prove to be both efficient and economical. 

But if, by straining a point, lead can 
be afforded, procure it by all means and 
have it bolted on outside. It neither 
tarnishes nor corrodes, and as it does 
not deteriorate, its marketable value is 
always the same. Racing yachts have, 
however, been known to sell for less 
than their lead ballast cost, but vsuch in- 
stances are rare. It should be borne in 
mind that the lower down the lead is 
placed the less the quantity required, 
and the greater its efficiency. 

There are always a number of second- 
hand cat-boats in the market for sale at 
a reasonable rate, and an advertisement 
will bring plenty of replies. But for a 
tyro to purchase a boat haphazard is i\. 
mistake on general principles. It is 
like a sailor buying a horse. Get some 
honest shipwright or boat builder to 
examine, say, some half-dozen boats 
whose dimensions suit you, and whose 
prices are about what you think you 
can afford. There are certain porti^^ns 
of a cat-boat that are subject to violent 
strains when the craft is under way.. 
The step of the mast and the center- 
board trunk are parts that require th^ 
vigilant eye of an expert. 



24 BOAT SAILING. 

Human natilre is prone to tempta- 
tion, and paint and putty are used quite 
often to conceal many important defects 
in a craft advertised for sale. The keen 
eye of a mechanic who has served his 
time to a boat-builder will soon detect 
all deficiencies of this kind, will ferret 
out rotten timbers, and under his advice 
and counsel you may succeed in picking 
up at a bargain some sound, seaworthy 
and serviceable craft in which you can 
enjoy yourself to your heart's content. 

But if some rotten hull is foisted on 
you by an unscrupulous person you will 
be apt to '* kick yourself round the 
block/' for she will be always in need of 
repairs, and in the end, when she is 
finally condemned, you will find on fig- 
uring up the cost that it would have 
been money in your pocket if you had 
built a new boat. 

The principal boat-builders of New 
York, New Jersey, Connecticut and 
Massachusetts are men of high charac- 
ter, who take a pride in their work 
(which is thoroughly first-class), and 
whose prices are strictly moderate. Any 
one of these will construct a capital boat 
of good model and fair speed. I am an 
old crank and a bigot in many things 
appertaining to boats and the sea, but I 
hope that any reader of this who is go- 
ing to build a pleasure craft will follow 
my advice at least in this instance : Let 
her be copper-fastened above and below 
the water-line. Don't use a single gal- 
vanized nail or bolt in her construction. 
See that the fastenings are clenched. 



THE CHOICE OF A BOA T. 25 

on a roove — not simply turned down. 
Don't spoil the ship for a paltry ha'porth 
of tar. Many builders, for the sake of 
economy, use galvanized iron through- 
out, and will take a solemn affidavit that 
it is quite as good as copper. But in the 
innermost cockles of their hearts they 
know they are wrong. Others more 
conscientious use copper fastenings be- 
low the water-line and galvanized iron 
above; but copper throughout is my cry, 
and so will I ever maintain while I am 
on this side of the Styx. 

Sometimes one may pick up a good 
serviceable boat at a Navy Yard sale. 
Uncle Sam's boats are of fair design and 
well built. They are often condemned 
because they are what is called *'nail 
sick," a defect which can be easily reme- 
died. Occasionally a steamship's life- 
boat can be bought for a trifle, and if it 
be fitted with a false keel with an iron 
shoe on it, will prove thoroughly sea- 
worthy and a moderately good sailer. 

Mr. E. F. Knight, the English barris- 
ter and author of the ** Cruise of the 
Falcon^' tells how he bought a life-boat 
condemned by the Peninsular and Ori- 
ental Company. She was thirty feet long 
with a beam of eight feet, very strong, 
being built of double skins of teak, and, 
like all the life-boats used by that com- 
pany, an excellent sea boat. This craft 
he timbered and decked, rigged her as a 
ketch, and crossed the North Sea in her, 
going as far as Copenhagen and back, 
and encountering plenty of bad weather 
during the adventurous voyage. Mr. 



26 BOAT SAILING, 

Knight is a believer in the pointed or 
life-boat stern for a small vessel. He 
was caught in a northwest gale, in the 
Gulf of Heligoland, in the above-men- 
tioned craft, and had to sail sixty miles be- 
fore a high and dangerous sea. His boat 
showed no tendency to broach to, " but 
rushed straight ahead across the steep 
sea in a fashion that gave us confidence 
and astonished us. Had she had the 
ordinary yacht's stern to present to those 
following masses of water, instead of a 
graceful wedge offering little resistance, 
we should have had a very uncomforta- 
ble time of it. Many men dislike a 
pointed stern and consider it ugly. 
However that may be it behaves hand- 
somely, and we should certainly recom- 
mend any amateur building a sailing 
boat for coasting purposes to give her 
the life-boat stern." 

Mr. Knight fitted his boat with lee 
boards, which no doubt served their 
purpose admirably. I should, however, 
favor a false keel and an iron shoe as 
being more efficient and less unsightly. 
I should not advise the purchaser of a 
condemned life-boat to have her fitted 
with a centerboard. The- cost would be 
high, and unless the job was done in a 
first-class manner by a man experienced 
at this sort of work it would be very un- 
satisfactory. 

A "nail-sick," clencher-built boat 
should be hauled up on the beach and 
filled with water. Every leak should 
be marked on the outside with chalk or 
white paint. After all the leaks have 



THE CHOICE OF A BOA T. 27 

been discovered, run the water out of 
her and dry her thoroughly. Next ex- 
amine every nail and try the lands or 
joinings of the planks with the blade of 
a very thin knife. Any rivets which 
have worked loose must be taken out 
and replaced with nails and rooves of a 
larger size. Through the chief parts of 
the bottom it may be necessary to put 
an additional nail between every two 
originally driven. Many of the old nails 
which are only a little slack should be 
hardened at their clench by a few taps 
from inside, one hand holding a ^^dollie" 
against the head of the nail on the out- 
side. Melt a pound of pitch in a gallon 
of boiling North Carolina tar and give 
her bottom a good coat inside, filling the 
lands or ledges well. The garboard 
strake fastenings and also those of the 
hooded ends should be carefully caulked. 
So should the seams. The seams of the 
planking should also be caulked. 

There are various mdthods of making 
a boat unsinkable. Cork is sometimes 
used, but it takes up too much room and 
is not so buoyant as air. Copper or zinc 
cases, made to fit under the thwarts 
and in various odd cornel's, have been 
fitted in boats, but their cost is high. 
Amateurs have used powder flasks and 
cracker cans, with their covers soldered 
on, cigar boxes, covered with duck and 
painted, bladders inflated with air, etc., 
etc. A boat displacing one ton will take 
about forty cubic feet of air to make her 
unsinkable. 



TRIAL SPIN IN A CAT-BOAT. 

BEFORE getting a cat-boat under 
way from an anchorage, or casting 
adrift from moorings, the captain 
should see all gear clear, that 
the centerboard works easily in its 
trunk, and that oars, rowlocks and 
a baler are aboard. An oar is very 
handy for turning a boat's head 
round in a light air when she has 
barely steerage way on; and in case you 
are confronted with a flat calm, a pair 
of oars are indispensable for working 
homeward. A boat-hook, too, should 
not be neglected. There is a story that 
I heard in the forecastle, of a mean old 
Dutch skipper who left his new anchor 
ashore on purely economic grounds. 
He was afraid it might rust, I suppose. 
The result of this thrifty dodge was the 
loss of his vessel on the Goodwin Sands. 
My counsel to the young boat-skipper 
is to see that his anchor is snugly stow- 
ed away forward, and that his chain — 
if his cable is of chain — is properly 
shackled to the ring of the anchor, and 
that the inner end of the cable is fast 
to the heel of the mast by a lashing 
that can be cut if it is necessary to slip 
at any time. If the cable is of rope, 



TRIAL SPIN IN A CAT-BOAT. 29 

take care that it is not made fast to the 
ring with a slipper}^ hitch. Anchors 
cost money, and a bend that will not 
come adrift is quite simple to make. 

Cast the tyers off the mainsail and 
hoist it, pulling up best on the throat 
halyards and then " swigging " on the 
peak till the after-leech is taut and the 
sail begins to wrinkle slightl)^ at the 
throat. While you are setting the sail, 
let the sheet fly. Next coil down the 
throat and peak halyards clear for run- 
ning, a;nd see that the mainsheet is free 
from kinks and coiled so that it can be 
eased off at a moment's notice without 
any danger of jamming in the block. 
A kink in the mainsheet has capsized 
many a cat-boat. Before you reeve a new 
mainsheet, stretch it well and take all 
the kinks out of it. Take care that the 
running parts of all sheets and halyards 
are coiled uppermost, with the ends 
underneath. 

Let us suppose that there is a nice 
breeze blowing and that your intention 
is to essay a four or five mile beat to 
windw^ard, and then conclude your trial 
trip with a run home. Cast adrift from 
your moorings or get your anchor 
aboard, as the case may be, and start 
out on whichever tack is convenient. 
When on the starboard tack the boom 
is over to port, and vice versa. Lower 
the centerboard and fill away on the 
boat with one hand on the tiller and 
the other holding the mainsheet, which 
should never be belayed, but may be 
held by half a turn round the cleat. 



30 no AT SAILING. 

Do not make the mistake of trimming 
in the sheet too flat, but let the boom 
off till it is well on the quarter and keep 
the sail well full, not allowing it to 
shiver. This is called steering *'full- 
and-by," which signifies as close to the 
wind as possible with the sail not shak- 
ing. If your boat is well balanced — 
that is, if her weights are well adjusted 
and her sail of proper cut — she will carry 
quite a little weather helm. So much 
so that if you allow the rudder to come 
amidships or on a line with the keel she 
will fly up in the wind and her sails will 
shake. This is by no means a fault un- 
less it is carried to excess, and it may be 
said, indeed, that there is something 
radically wrong with a craft that re- 
quires lee helm — a defect that should 
be remedied at once. 

The young sailor should bear in mind 
that to accomplish the best results in 
beating to windward the sail should al- 
ways be kept full. Nothing is gained 
by sailing a boat right in the wind's eye 
with the sail shivering. The boat then 
points higher but she goes to leeward 
like a crab. Instances have been known 
of a fore-and-aft racing yacht sailing 
within three points of the wind, but 
these are rare, indeed. The ordinary 
cat-boat will not often do better than 
pointing up within four points of the 
breeze, and her best windward work is 
generally thus accomplished. There 
are occasions, indeed, when what is 
known as a " fisherman's luff " may be 
indulged in with profit, such as when 



TRIAL SPIN IN A CAT- BO AT, 31 

rounding a mark or shooting up to an 
anchorage where there is little room. 
The maneuver consists in luffing the 
boat up into the wind so that the sails 
shake, and she shoots dead to windward 
by her own momentum. If the boat is 
a heavy one she will shoot quite a dis- 
tance. Care must be taken to put the 
helm up and fill on her before she loses 
way, or she will get ^4n irons'* and 
acquire sternway, or perhaps pay off 
on the other tack. If a boat acquires 
sternway the helm must be shifted at 
once. The rudder will now produce the 
reverse effect to what it would if the 
boat were going ahead. Putting the 
tiller to starboard turns the vessel's head 
to port, and vice versa in the case of 
sternway. 

The beginner will find that his boat 
spins along quite merrily and obeys the 
slightest touch of the tiller. He should 
not relax his vigilance in the least, but 
should keep his weather eye skinned for 
sudden gusts of wind or catspaws which 
may be seen ruffling the water to wind- 
ward, in timely season before they strike 
the boat. As the little craft begins to 
heel or list over to the pressure, luif up 
a little so that the fore-leech of the sail 
begins to shiver. If there is not weight 
enough in the puff to put the lee rail 
under, sail her along with just the sus- 
picion of a shake in the luff of the sail, 
so that if she goes over far enough for 
the water to threaten to come over the 
lee coamings and deluge the cockpit you 
can put your helm down and lufi: up 



32 BOAT SAILING. 

until the boat comes nearly head to 
wind, at the same time lowering away 
your sail and making preparations for 
taking in a reef. 

If you are a novice, and the water is 
neither too rough nor too deep and the 
breeze seems likely to last, and you think 
your craft is not up to carrying a whole 
mainsail, there is no reason why you 
should not drop anchor and reef your 
sail in leisurely and comfortable fashion. 
If you feel at all nervous take in a 
couple of reefs. 

After sail has been shortened set the 
mainsail, hoist up the anchor again and 
thresh her at it. You will observe that 
she inclines less to the puffs under the 
pressure of the reduced sail, and that 
the lee gunwale is always well clear of 
the water. Watch the boat well ; look 
out for coming squalls, and be prepared 
to ease off the sheet and luff up in- 
stantly should occasion arise. If there 
are other boats in company with you 
tacking toward the same point you must 
remember that those on the starboard 
tack have the right of way, and thus 
when you are on the port tack you must 
keep clear of them. I would not advise 
a novice in a boat on the port tack to 
try and cross the bow of a boat on the 
starboard tack unless there is plenty of 
room. Distances on the water are de- 
ceptive to the tyro, and it is well to run 
no risk of collision. If the boat on the 
port tack will not keep away for you 
when you are on the starboard tack, 
and seems to be making for you with 



TRIAL SPIN IN A CAT- BO AT. 33 

the intention of running you down, keep 
cool. Stand by to put your helm hard 
down so as to luff right up in the wind 
or even to go about. If you put your 
helm up and keep away, and a collision 
ensues, you would probably have to pay 
all the damage. The strict legal rule 
is that the vessel on the starboard tack 
must keep her course and .neither luff 
nor bear up. If this rule is observed 
you will be within the letter of the law. 
In yacht racing a yacht on the port tack 
can be disqualified if she is struck by a 
yacht which is on the starboard tack, no 
matter how the striking happened ; if 
she herself strikes a yacht which is on 
the starboard tack ; if she causes a yacht 
which is on the starboard tack to bear 
away to avoid a collision. It is appar- 
ent, therefore, that no wise helmsman 
w411 run any risks. If he is on the port 
tack he will give way with a good grace 
and try to look pleasant. It is better 
than a collision, which is sure in a brisk 
breeze to do a lot of damage, and may 
possibly cause serious personal injuries 
or even loss of life. 

The beginner may, after threshing to 
windward for an hour or so, begin to feel 
homesick. Let him then put his helm up, 
easing the main sheet off at the same 
time until he gets the boom at a right 
angle with the mast and the boat dead 
before the wind. He will at this time 
have to pay particular attention to the 
steering, giving the boat '* small helm " 
and giving it to her quickly in order to 
keep her steady on hQf course. Steer« 



34 BOAT SAILING, 

ing a cat-boat in a stiff breeze and lumpy 
water requires both skill and experience. 
I should counsel a green hand to lower 
the peak of the mainsail and run her 
under easy sail until he acquires the art. 
In that case, should he accidentally gybe 
the boom over, the result is not likely to 
be particularly disastrous ; whereas, if 
the sail were peaked up, the boom might 
snap in two or the boat herself might 
broach to. 

The centerboard should be hoisted 
up into the trunk when running before 
the wind, and the boom should be kept 
well topped up. In some small cat-boats 
there is no topping lift and the sail has 
only one halyard, which hoists both the 
throat and peak. This is a faulty rig. 
Throat and peak halyards should be 
separate, and a topping lift should always 
be fitted. 

I think it my duty to warn the inex- 
perienced boat sailer against gybing 
his little craft. It is a maneuver that 
requires skill and care, especially in a 
brisk breeze. If you must gybe, lower 
the peak so as to *^ scandalize " the sail, 
and haul the boom well aboard as the 
helm is put up. As the wind shifts from 
dead astern and comes on the other 
quarter, carrying the boom over, ease 
off the sheet handsomely and take care 
to meet her promptly with the helm as 
she flies to, which is invariably the case. 
You can then hoist the peak up again. 

If you have women and children 
aboard the boat, gybing should never be 
resorted to if the wind is strong. . It is 



TRIAL SPIN IN A CAT- BO AT. 35 

far preferable to luff up into the wind 
and tack and then keep off again. 

In coming to anchor or picking up 
moorings make the boat describe a good 
sweep, so that she may come np in the 
wind and lose her way exactly where 
you wish. You can then either let go 
the anchor or pick up the moorings, as 
the case may be. Then lower the sail, 
furl it snugly, put on the sail cover, stow 
away everything neatly, haul taut the 
halyards and the mainsheet, which you 
should coil up, and leave everything tidy 
and in readiness for getting under way 
next time. 

When, on a wind with a light breeze 
and in smooth water, it becomes neces- 
sary to heave to to let a boat come 
alongside, haul the mainsheet flat aft 
and haul the fore and jib sheets a- weath- 
er. If in a fresh breeze, flatten in the 
mainsheet, let the jib sheet flow, and 
haul the fore sheet a-weather. 

For small open boats the anchor 
shotild weigh one pound for every foot 
of length up to twenty feet length. If 
the boat is ballasted, another half pound 
per foot should be added. 

If you have the misfortune to get 
stuck fast in the mud or on a sand bank, 
you must act quickly. If you ground 
while running before the wind, lower 
your sails at once. If you have a 
dinghy, run out your kedge anchor, 
with a line fast to it, astern into deep 
water and try to haul off. Work the 
helm to and fro. Run from side to 
side so as to loosen the boat from her 



36 BOAT SAILING. 

muddy bed. If the tide is rising and 
your kedge does not drag, you will be 
sure to get off. 

If you run aground while close-haul- 
ed, let go the mainsheet, put the helm 
hard over and try to back her off with 
the jib, at the same time using a boat- 
hook or oar to try to shove her into 
deep water. If you have any passen- 
gers, concentrate all their weight as far 
aft as possible. Send out a kedge, and 
let all hands clap to on the line. If the 
tide is on the ebb, you may probably 
have to wait till high water. Now comes 
a ticklish crisis. If your craft is beamy, 
with full bilges, she will take the 
ground and lie easily as the water re- 
cedes. If, on the other hand, your 
little ship is of the deep and narrow 
kind and is not provided with "legs," 
you will have to improvise something 
in that direction to prevent her from 
careening on her side. " Legs " are not 
fashionable on this side of the Atlantic. 
They are props of wood shod with iron, 
one end of which rests on the bottom, 
while the other fits under the channels, 
or is lashed to a shroud. If you have 
no other spar available, unbend the head 
of the mainsail from the gaff. Stick it 
in the mud jaws downward close to the 
rigging and lash it firmly to a shroud. 
List the boat over to the side the gafi' is 
out by guying over the boom and put- 
ting any extra weight you happen to 
have on the same side. The boat will 
then take the ground in safety. 



IV. 
THE YAWL RIG. 

THOUGH I recommend the catboat 
as a general craft for knocking 
about and having a good time in, 
I am not blind to the advan- 
tages of the yawl rig. In fact, the 
bold young seaman contemplating long 
cruises and sometimes venturing out of 
sight of land will find that the yawl rig 
possesses no mean merit. For single- 
handed cruising its worth has long been 
recognized. The sails are so divided 
that they are small and easy to handle, 
but this division of sail inevitably de- 
creases the speed and also the weath- 
erly qualities of the boat. If we take 
a catboat and change her into a yawl 
rig she will not be nearly so fast, nor 
will she point so close to the wind. 
There are fathoms of scientific rea- 
sons for this with which I will not 
bother my readers. Suffice it to say 
that it has been demonstrated practi- 
cally over and over again. 

But although the yawl-rigged sailing 
boat of the smallest type has at least 
three sails — foresail, mainsail and mizzen 
— yet the last named, after once being 
set, practically takes care of itself. The 
mainsail, too, is quite easily handled, 
the whole sail being in the body of the 
boat. The foresail sometimes gives a 
little annoyance in taking it in, if the 



38 BOAT SAILING. 

boat is pitching her nose tinder in a 
steep sea. This, however, is unavoid- 
able. Headsails on all sailing vessels, 
big or little, have never bee n conducive 
to dry skins under certain conditions of 
wind and sea. The yawl is always under 
control, and in this attribute lies her 
chief charm. When a squall is bearing 
down all one has to do is to lower the 
mainsail and pass a tyer or two round it to 
keep it muzzled. When the gust strikes 
the boat she is under easy sail and is 
not likely to come to grief. If the squall 
is of exceptional strength, ease off the 
foresheet and keep the sail shaking a 
little until you have felt the full strength 
of the wind. Act then as judgment may 
dictate. If the blow is very heavy and 
seems likely to last it may be necessary 
to take in the foresail and the mizzen, 
and close reef the mainsail. 

If you are sailing with the wind a-beam 
and a squall smites you it may not be 
necessary to lower the mainsail at all. 
Ease the sheet right off so as to spill the 
wind, and you will pass safely through 
the ordeal without parting a rope yarn. 

In getting under way or in working 
up to anchorage in a crowded harbor 
or roadstead the yawl rig is one of the 
handiest known, for by having the main- 
sail furled the speed of the boat is re- 
duced so that you can pick your way 
among the craft without danger of col- 
lision or striking flaws. So many fa- 
mous cruises have been made in small 
yawl-rigged craft that there can be no 
doubt about their adaptability for such 



THE YA WL RIG. 39 

work, and to the man anxious for more 
ambitious achievement than merely 
sailing in rivers, bays and sheltered 
harbors, I most certainly would recom- 
mend the rig-. 

Despite the yawl's certain safety for 
single handed cruising, I am not in favor 
of sailing by myself. I prefer a congenial 
companion to share whatever pleasure 
or peril may be encountered. Of course 
one must exercise some wise discrimi- 
nation in the choice of a cruising com- 
panion ; for when once at sea there is no 
way of ridding yourself of an objection- 
able mate except throwing him over- 
board, which would not be exactly fair 
to him. Besides, he might throw you 
overboard, which would be bad for you. 
There are, however, hundreds of good 
yachtsmen and boatmen w^ho have made 
long voyages alone and have written 
charming accounts of their nautical expe- 
ditions. John McGregor's "Voyage 
Alone in the Yawl Rob Roy" and E. 
Middleton's '' Cruise of the Kate " (also 
a yawl) are two entertaining books of 
sea travel which I heartily recommend to 
those who contemplate sailing by them- 
selves. 

While I am in favor of a catboat for 
general purposes in the neighborhood 
of New York, yet when long distance 
trips are to be made the yawl rig will, 
on the whole, be found preferable. 

That keen sportsman, Mr. W. H. H 
Murray, is a firm believer in the yawl 
rig for cruising. In Outing for May, 
1891, there appeared a most valuable 



40 BOAT SAILING. 

article from his facile pen entitled 
** How I sail Champlain''' The Chain- 
plain is of sharpie model, thirty feet on 
the water-line. Siie is of remarkably 
strong construction, her oaken keel be- 
ing sixteen by twenty inches amidships 
and tapering properly fore and aft. 
Through this keel is sunk a mortise 
four inches wide and sixteen feet long, 
through which the centerboard works. 
This "fin" is of oak planking thick 
enough to easily enter the case when 
hoisted, but leaving little space be- 
tween it and the case when in use. The 
centerboard is sixteen feet long, four 
feet deep forward and seven feet aft, 
and it has fifteen hundred pounds of iron 
for ballast. Mr. Murray says : "• When 
the centerboard is lowered this mass of 
metal is eight feet below her water-line, 
and guarantees a stability adequate to 
resist any pressure which the wind can 
put upon her sails and the sails with- 
stand. Of course I am speaking with 
the supposition that the boat receives, 
when under stress, judicious manage- 
ment." 

The centerboard, which weighs two 
thousand pounds, is lifted by a " differ- 
ential hoist," by means of which "the 
helmsman, with one hand on the tiller, 
can, if need occurs, with the other eas- 
ily run the heavy board rapidly up into 
the case. The value of this adjustment 
can only be appreciated by a cruising 
yachtsman. It places him in perfect 
control of his craft under all conditions 
of varying depth of water and difficult 



42 BOAT SAILING, 

weather. In a heavy seaway ; in rap- 
idly shoaling water on an unknown 
coast ; when suddenly compelled to 
beat up against a swiftly flowing tide ; 
or when finding himself unexpectedly 
near a reef, unobserved through care- 
lessness or not plainly charted — this 
hoist is simply priceless. It is not over 
expensive, and can easily be adjusted to 
any yacht." 

The cockpit is roomy, and, because of 
its high coamings, is also deep. The 
cabin is sixteen feet long, the forward 
half being permanently roofed. The 
after-half of the cabin is constructed, as 
to its roof, in equal divisions. The for- 
ward-half is tracked, and the after-half 
is grooved to run upon it. Mr. Murray 
finds this arrangement most convenient, 
as it gives to the yacht such coolness 
and comfort as cannot be obtained in a 
cabin permanently roofed. The whole 
roof is so fitted to the coamings that it 
can be quickly and easily removed and 
stowed, leaving the yacht to be sailed 
as an open one, decked from stem to 
midship section. This arrangement is 
an admirable one for harbor sailing in 
bright weather or for racing. 

Regarding the handiness of Cham- 
plain Mr. Murray says : " All yachts- 
men know what a disagreeable job it 
is to reef a sloop or cat-boat in rough 
water, and from this cause many skip- 
pers will delay reefing as long as possi- 
ble and often until too late. And be- 
cause of this many accidents happen 
yearly. In this respect the . yawl rig 



THE YA WL RIG. 43 

shows to the greatest advantage and 
commends itself to all sensible yachts- 
men. For when the moment has come 
to reef, if the boat is running free her 
head is brought up to the wind, the 
mizzen and jib sheets trimmed in, and 
with the main boom well inboard the 
pennants are lashed and the reef points 
tied down, when she is let off again and 
goes bowling along on her former 
course. In Champlain the three reef 
cringles on the leech of the mainsail 
are all within easy reach from the cock- 
pit, and the skipper, without leaving the 
tiller, can lash the pennants, and hence, 
with only one assistant, the three reefs 
can successively, if need be, be tied 
down. Indeed, so well do the jib and 
mizzen sail work in unison, that unless 
the wind is very puffy and variable, the 
helm can be lashed and she will hold 
her course steadily onward while ^the 
skipper is tying down the after reef 
points. It is a matter of pleasant sur- 
prise to one not accustomed to this rig 
how easily and rapidly a reef in most 
trying conditions can be taken in the 
mainsail of a yawl whose sails are well 
balanced. 

** Moreover, unless the squall is a very 
heavy one, a yawl can be eased through 
it without reefing at all. For when the 
wind comes roaring down and the white 
line of froth and spray is right upon 
you, the boat can be brought up to the 
wind and the mainsheet eased hand- 
somely out, and with jib and mizzen 
drawing finely and the mainboom off to 



44 BOAT SAILING. 

leeward the wind whistles harmlessly 
between the masts, while the yacht, only 
slightly disturbed in her balance, sails 
steadily along. Or, if the squall is a 
heavy one and there is no time to reef 
down before it strikes, the yacht can be 
luffed up, the mainsail let down at a run, 
and with the belly of the sail held within 
the lazy-lines the yacht is under safe 
conditions. But ordinarily it is better 
to reef or even tie down the mainsail 
snugly, and as in a yawl it can be done 
rapidly and easily there is no reason 
w^hy it should not be done and every- 
thing be kept shipshape. 

• ' In cruising I often sailed Champlain 
under jib and mizzen alone, with the 
mainsail stowed and the boom crutched 
and tied snugly down amidships, espe- 
cially in the night time when it w^as 
very dark and the weather foul. Under 
this scant canvas with a favorable wind 
she would sail along at a very fair rate 
of speed and even make good progress 
in beating up against quite a sea, and I 
need not say that it adds greatly to the 
pleasure of cruising in a small yacht 
with only one man for your crew to feel 
that you have your boat in a condition 
of perfect control. It is evident that 
with no other rig can this condition to 
the same degree be obtained or such a 
sense of absolute security be enjoyed. 

** To an amateur nothing is more try- 
ing than coming to or getting away 
from moorings, especially if the wind is 
blowing strongly and the anchorage 
ground is crowded with other yachts, 



THE YA IVL RIG, 45 

not to speak of vessels of commerce, 
bateaux, tugs and ferryboats. Under 
such circumstances it is no easy matter 
for any, save an expert, to work a sloop 
or cat-boat or schooner safely out 
through the crowded harbor or basin to 
the open water beyond ; and it is all 
the more trying to a skipper if there is 
a strong tide running at the moment. 
But with a yawl the difficulties of the 
situation are almost wholly removed. 
For with mainsail unlashed he can hoist 
his anchor or cast off from moorings, 
and under his two small sails work his 
boat out slowly and safely from the 
jammed basin or crowded space within 
the breakwater. He must be a tyro in- 
deed who cannot safely manage a yawl 
under the worst possible conditions of 
this sort. 

** In cruising, if the weather is threat- 
ening it is well to carry a single reef in 
the mainsail until it clears up, for a 
yawl works well under such a sail with 
jib and mizzen furled. In vsuch trim 
the yacht is as a cat-boat with a small 
sail, and as her main boom is shorter 
than a cat-boat's or a sloop's she can be 
worked in a very heavy sea with her 
boom's end well above the rollers. And 
I know of nothing more trying to a 
skipper than to sail his craft with his 
boom's end half the time under water. 
In such a condition the spars, rigging 
and boat are under a stress and strain 
which every prudent skipper dreads and 
seeks to avoid, and it speaks volumes in 
favor of the yawl rig to say that with it 



46 BOAT SAILING. 

such a trying condition can never arise. 
Indeed a yawl under a double-reefed 
mainsail alone is in perfect trim for 
scudding. If well modeled she will 
neither yaw nor thrash the water with 
her boom*s end, but career along almost 
with the speed of the wind itself. For 
her canvas is low down, as it should be, 
and her boom carried well above the 
seething water. In this shape, moreover, 
she can lay a course with the wind well 
over her quarter without strain, and it 
must be a very hard blow and rough 
water indeed to give anxiety to any on 
board of her." 

That the Chainplain is a capital sea- 
boat is beyond question. Her owner 
thus describes a run on the lower St. 
Lawrence in returning from a cruise to 
the Saguenay : "' We passed Bale St. 
Paul in the evening, whirled along by a 
rising gale blowing directly up the river. 
The night was pitchy dark, the tide 
running fiercely on the ebb at the rate 
of five miles an hour at the least. The 
water was very wild, as one can easily 
imagine. Stemming such a current it 
would not do to shorten sail if one 
wished to pass Cape Tourmente and get 
into quiet water, the Isle of Orleans and 
the north shore, so we let every sail 
stand, cleated the sheets tightly and let 
her drive. How she did tear onward ! 
The froth and spume lay deep on her 
pathways and after-deck. The waves 
crested fiercely, rolling against the cur- 
rent, and the black water broke into 
phosphor as we slashed through it I 



THE YAWL RIG. 47 

do not recall that I ever saw a yacht 
forced along more savagely. How the 
water roared under the ledges and 
along the rough shores of Tourmente ! 
And I was profoundly grateful w?ien we 
were able to bear off to starboard and 
run into the still water back of Orleans. 
Perhaps that midnight cup of coffee did 
not taste well ! Its heat ran through 
my chilled veins like Chartreuse. I can 
taste it yet ! " 

The ordinary jib-and-mainsail rigged 
boat, as seen in the waters round New 
York, might easily be improved upon. 
In the first place, the majority of them 
are too much after the skimming-dish 
pattern to suit my fancy. Then the 
mast is stepped as a rule too far forward 
for the best work, and renders reefing 
difficult, as she will not *^ lay to " com- 
fortably under her headsail, whereas if 
the mast of a boat is stepped well aft, 
cutter fashion, the boat will lay to quite 
well, and reefing the mainsail is easy. 
The American sloop rig is open to the 
same criticism, and that is why the Eng- 
lish way of rigging a single-sticker has 
been adopted in all our new racing- 
craft. To my mind there is nothing 
more hideous than a "bobbed" jib. < It 
renders good windward work impossi- 
ble, as it causes a boat to sag off to lee- 
ward and is in other ways a detriment. 
A small boat with the mast stepped in 
the right place and carrying a jib and a 
mainsail is, however, a very satisfactory 
craft, good at beating to windward as 
well as reaching or running. I should 



48 BOAT SAILING. 

advise that a ^'spit-fire" or storm jib 
be carried along" whenever a sail of any 
distance is contemplated, and also a gaff- 
headed trysail, so that the adventurous 
skipper may be always prepared for 
storm and stress of weather. This ex- 
tra '^ muslin " takes up little room when 
properly rolled up. 

The simplest and safest rig- in the 
world is the leg-of-mutton sail. It is 
the one fitted exactly for river work, 
where one is sure to encounter puffs of 
some force as ravines are reached or 
valleys passed. To amateurs it is the 
sail par excellence for experimenting 
with, for no matter how many blunders 
are made a mishap is well nigh impossi- 
ble. The leg-of-mutton sail has no gaff, 
nor need it have a boom. There is little 
or no leverage aloft, and all the power 
for mischief it has can be taken out of 
it by slacking off the sheet and spilling 
the wind. The learner might with ad- 
vantage practice with a sail of this 
shape until he becomes proficient. If 
he eventually determines upon a jib and . 
mainsail or yawl rig for permanent use, 
he may avoid wasting it by having it 
made over into a storm trysail. 

I would strongly advise every ama- 
teur skipper to shun the ballast-fin de- 
vice as he would shun cold poison or a 
contagious disease. That is unless he 
intends to go in for a regular racing 
career, in which case the cups carried 
off might possibly compensate him for 
the woe, the anguish and the premature 
gray hairs inseparable from this con- 



THE YAWL RIG. 



49 



trivance. Mind you these remarks of 
mine apply only to amateurs and not to 
grizzled sailing-masters of yachts who 
fully understand how to navigate and 
handle all types of pleasure craft. The- 
oretically the ballast-fin has many obvi- 
ous advantages. 




TYPE OF FIN-KEEL. 



TSf B.Ie 




The fin consists of a plate of iron or 
steel to the base of which is affixed a 
bulb of lead, which, being in the best 
possible place, insures stability. The 
fin proper gives lateral resistance in an 
almost perfect form, for there is no 
deadwood either forward or aft and the 
least possible amount of wetted surface. 
I remember when a little boy in a fish- 
ing village on the bank of a land-locked 
arm of the sea, where the water was 
always smooth, how we youngsters 
came to appreciate fully the worth of 
an improvised ballast-fin. We used to 
enjoy the diversion of model yacht sail- 
ing and the delights of many regattas. 



50 BOAT SAILING. - 

I owned one of the smartest models in 
the village. She was rigged as a cutter 
with outside lead, self-steering gear and 
all the latest maritime improvements, 
and she generally came out a winner. 
I tell you I used to put on a great many 
airs on this account, and as a natural 
result was duly hated and envied by my 
playmates, who owned more or less 
tubby craft that could scarcely get out 
of their own way. 

But the day arrived when my pride 
was destined to have a fall. A shrewd 
youth of Scottish extraction came to our 
village for the summer with his father. 
He had the keenest, greenest eye you 
ever saw, and one of those money-mak- 
ing noses that are unmistakable. His 
whole physiognomy and form indicated 
shrewdness. He mingled with us for 
some time on the beach, mudlarked 
with the boys and watched our model 
yacht matches with undisguised inter- 
est. We all got the notion that he was 
an inland landlubber, though it is only 
fair to him to acknowledge that he never 
told us so in so many words. 

One Saturday afternoon, after my 
little cutter had surpassed herself by 
distancing all her opponents, I indulged 
in some unusually tall talk, and chal- 
lenged each and every one of my rivals 
to a race across the '' creek," as the sheet 
of water was called, offering to give 
them four minutes' start, the distance 
being half a mile. 

To my surprise, our green-eyed friend 
came along and accepted the challenge, 



THE YAWL RIG. 51 

saying that on the following Saturday 
he would produce a craft that would 
knock spots out of my cutter without 
any time allowance whatever, and with- 
out the aid of a longer hull or larger 
sailspread. He also remarked that he 
had a month's pocket money saved up, 
and was willing to wager it on the 
result. I accepted his offer without 
superfluous parleying, and in my mind's 
eye was already investing that pocket 
money of his in various little treasures 
for which I hankered. But, for all that, 
I made every preparation for the fray, 
using very fine sandpaper and pot lead 
till my boat's bottom was beautifully 
burnished, and seeing that her sails and 
gear were in tip top racing condition. 
All the boys wondered what sort of a 
craft my opponent would bring out. 
He had never been seen with a boat of 
any description. We laughed in our 
sleeves and whispered it about that he 
would probably produce one of those 
showy vessels that one sees in the city 
toy store, and that generally sail on 
their beam ends. 

The hour for the race arrived. The 
boys were all excited and flocked to the 
water's edge, whence the start was to 
be made. There was a goodly throng 
of them present, and, notwithstanding 
their contempt for the Scotchman, it 
was no doubt the desire of their hearts 
that some of my overweening conceit 
should be taken down a couple of pegs 
or so. Presently my rival appeared on 
the scene, carrying in his arms the 



52 BOAT SAILING. 

queerest looking craft any of us had 
ever seen. Her hull was shaped like an 
Indian birch bark canoe, except that to 
the rounded bottom a keel was fastened. 
A groove was made in the keel, in which 
an oblong piece of slate was placed, to 
the bottom of which a strip of lead 
was secured. The rig was that of a 
cutter, and I noticed that her sails were 
well cut. She looked quite business-like, 
and when she was measured we found she 
was two inches shorter than my cutter. 
There was a nice, fresh westerly wind 
blowing, and quite a lop of a sea run- 
ning for diminutive craft such as were 
about to race. I had already deemed it 
prudent to take in a reef in the main- 
sail of my vessel, and set a No. 2 jib, but 
my Scotch friend said he thought his 
boat would carry whole sail without any 
trouble. The course was south, so the 
craft had to sail with the wind a-beam. 
The start was made, my boat being to 
windward, as I had won the toss. And 
that was all I did win. The " ballast- 
fin " craft beat my cutter so badly that 
even at this distance of time my ears 
tingle and I feel ashamed. While my 
boat was burying henself, her rival took 
the curling wavelets right buoyantly, 
standing up to her work valiantly, 
and moving two feet to the cutter's one. 
We accompanied the model yachts in 
row-boats, keeping well to leeward, but 
quite close enough to observe their 
movements accurately. That was my 
first experience of the ballast-fin. W^e 
all became converts, and shoal, round- 



THE YAWL RIG. 53 

bottomed craft, with slate fins to give sta- 
bility and lateral resistance, were thence- 
forward the fashion. My successful 
rival, we afterward discovered, was the 
son of a naval architect of repute, and 
he is now practising his father's profes- 
sion with a good deal of success. 

Thus I have not a word to say against 
the ballast-fin so far as racing is con- 
cerned, but in cruising the average man 
who sails for pleasure wants a craft that 
he can haul out of the water easily to 
scrub, clean and paint. Now, if you 
put a ballast-fin boat on the mud for any 
one or all of these purposes she requires 
a "' leg " on each side to keep her up- 
right, and also supports at the bow and 
stern to prevent her from turning head 
over heels. The stationary fin always 
represents your true draught of water. 
It is always with you and is an integral 
portion of the boat's hull. If you hap- 
pen to get stuck on a shoal — and this is 
a contingency that has occurred fre- 
quently to the most skillful and careful 
navigator — in thick wbather for in- 
stance, your lot is by no means to be 
envied. This is particularly true if the 
tide is falling fast. The boat would go 
over on her side as soon as the water 
got low enough. The crew and pas- 
sengers might have to wait aboard 
until high water, and a precious un- 
comfortable time they would pass I am 
certain. When the flood tide made it 
might be a moot question whether the 
boat would float or fill with water. 

The movable centerplate will always 



54 



BOAT SAILING. 



let you know when you get on a shoal, 
and will in nearly all cases give you 
warning in time to avoid grounding, 
which is always an unpleasant predica- 
ment and one entailing much labor. 
Then, again, the anchorages at which 
small boats can safely lie are generally 
pretty shallow at low water and the bal- 
last-fin is found to be mighty inconven- 
ient for such places. 




SAIL PLAN OF FIN-KEEL. 



THE KNOCKABOUT CLASSES. 

THE knockabouts, which had their 
orig-in in Boston, have much to 
recommend them. They are free 
from freakiness. None of them 
at this time of writing have been fitted 
with fin-keels to harass their skippers 
when they come in contact with the 
ground. They have a moderate sail 
area, and thus are under control at all 
times. In a blow one is as safe aboard 
one of these craft as a converted China- 
man under the lee of his fair Sunday- 
school teacher at church - time. The 
variety in vogue in Boston in 1897 was 
limited to 500 square feet of sail. All 
were keel boats, 2 1 feet being the limit 
of length on the load water-line. 

This class gained popularity from the 
intrinsic excellence of the boats them- 
selves, combining capital cruising quali- 
ties w4th fair speed and good accommo- 
dations. Several designers competed, 
the restrictions governing their con- 
struction, dimensions, and sail area 
being such that the boats were very 
even in speed, and the contests in 
which they took part w^ere keen, close, 
and exciting. 

The type of knockabout chosen for 
the season of 1898 by the Seawanhaka 



56 



no AT SAILING. 



Corinthian Yacht Chib and the Westches- 
ter Country Club has proved to be quite 
admirably adapted for cruising" and 
racing-. They were designed and built 
by Mr. W. B. Stearns, of Marblehead, 
their dimensions being : Length over 




SEAWANHAKA 21-FOOT KNOCKABOUT. 

all, 2>3 f^^t ; on the load water-line, 21 
feet ; beam, 7 feet 8 inches ; draught, 4 
feet ; with board down, 7 feet. The 
area of the mainsail and jib contains 550 
square feet. The centerboard is a small 
one of iron, and houses below the cabin 
floor. The trunk cabin is 8 feet long, 
with 5 feet head-room. The price of 



THE KNOCK A BO UT CLA SSES. 57 

these boats was $750 complete, and, 
their construction being- sound and 
strong, they will, if taken care of prop- 
erly, be good for many years. 

It is impossible to speak in terms too 
high of this class after a surfeit of the 
racing machines and freaks like the 
20 - footers whose alarming antics so 
often amused and amazed us whenever 
they happened to meet in a reefing 
breeze. Another good property they 
possess is that they look like boats when 



SECT. AT COCKPIT, 

SRCT. AT CABIN TRUMIC. 

L O. A. . . 33 ft. o in. 




L. W. I. 
Breadtn ex. . 7 

'• L.W. L. 7 " 3 '• I 

SEAWANHAKA KNOCKABOUT, 



Draug-ht with 

B. D. . . . 7 ft. o ir 

Draug-ht with- 
out B. D. . 4 ^' o " 

Sail area . 550 " o " 



hauled up on the beach, and can never 
be mistaken when their masts are un- 
stepped for pig-troughs or fish floats. 
There is no doubt of the seaworthiness 
of these craft. They are perfectly safe 
in a northwest squall off Sandy Hook 
or in a dirty easterly gale on Long 
Island Sound. 

Another craft of this type which was 
deservedly popular last year is of larger 
size than the one described above. She 
is 25 feet on the load water-line, 38 feet 



58 BOAT SAILING. 

over all, with a beam of 8 feet 6 inches, 
and 5 feet draught with centerboard up. 
The boat, which was designed by Mr. 
B. B. Crowninshield, of Boston, has a 
commodious cabin with six feet head- 
room, a seven - foot cockpit, and 8oo 



SAIL-PLAN OF SEAWANHAKA KNOCKABOUT— 
550 SQUARE FEET. 

square feet of duck in mainsail and jib. 
A very able and roomy boat nearly twice 
as costly as the vStearns craft, but indeed 
quite a little ship. 

Personally I favor a short bowsprit in 
a knockabout, it being convenient for 



THE KNOCK A BO CJT CLA SSES. 59 

hoisting the anchor, keeping it clear of 
the hull, and preventing unseemly dents 
from the flukes. 

1 fear that knockabouts, or raceabouts, 
even in restricted classes, are destined 
eventually to be fitted with fin-keels. 
As a speed-inducing factor the fin has 
fully demonstrated its capacity since the 
first edition of this little book appeared. 
I have not, however, altered my opinion 
one iota since my remarks on the bal- 
last-fin made in the chapter which pre- 
cedes this. In my judgment the fin is 
admirably adapted as an adjunct to a 
racing machine, but for cruising craft I 
like it not. Brand me as an old fogy, 
if you will ; half a century behind the 
times, if it so pleases you, shipmates, but 
give me credit for sincerity. 

The keen sense of rivalry inherent in 
every American will not permit him to 
be content with a good, honest sailing 
boat for cruising purposes only. If one 
of his chums comes out with a faster 
craft, whether a fin-keel or a modifica- 
tion thereof, he will become dissatisfied 
with his own boat, no matter how sea- 
worthy and comfortable she may be, and 
will promptly discard her for a new- 
fangled design in which speed is the 
principal characteristic. The so-called 
restricted classes, which are so popular 
just now, are, I think, sure in the end to 
become purely racing classes, something 
after the fashion of the Herreshoff 30- 
footers now so fashionable in Newport. 
As racing boats, none afford more sport 
than these wonderfully smart flyers, and 



60 BOAT SAILING. 

I can well understand what fascinating 
toys they have proved to their owners. 
But, after all, they are only toys, vastly 
expensive, too, with no accommodations 
for cruising- and apt to be uncomforta- 
bly wet in a breeze. 

The one design classes of small yachts 
are not confined to knockabouts only. 
Cruising schooners, designed by Gary 
Smith, made their appearance in 1898, 
and the class, from a modest beginning, 
seems likely to grow. The features of 
the boats are their sound and wholesome 
characteristics. They possess moder- 
ate draught large accommodations, and 
strength ot construction They are 64 
feet 2 inches over all, 46 feet long on 
the load water-line, 16 feet beam, 
draught without board 6 feet 6 inches, 
least freeboard 3 feet. A rather low 
cabin trunk gives full head-room for 
the greater part of the yacht's length, 
the main saloon being more than 13 
feet long with a floor width of 6 feet 9 
inches. On each side are two berths 
and two sofas with drawers beneath. 
There is accommodation in the fore- 
castle for four men. The yachts carry 
20,000 pounds of lead ballast, of which 
T 8,000 pounds is on keel. Another one- 
design division is the Riverside Yacht 
Club dory class, which has been adopted 
by many of the clubs ejirolled in the 
Yacht-Racing Union of Long Island 
•Sound. These boats are thirteen feet 
on the keel, seventeen feet over all, 
with four feet beam, fitted with a center- 
board and rigged with a small jib and a 



THE KNO CKA BOUT CLA SSh S. 61 

leg-of-mutton sail. They are for single- 
handed racing, but for pleasure cruising 
or fishing a man can take his chum 
along. Fully equipped with oars, sails, 
etc., they cost about forty dollars, and 
afford capital sport on fine afternoons. 
To encourage this little class, prizes, 
worth winning are offered by the clubh- 
and sweepstake races are popular fea- 
tures. 

The idea was probably taken from 
the Nahant Dory Club, organized in 
1894, which did much to encourage 
sport in this serviceable and inexpen- 
sive class. Spectators will find amuse- 
ment in watching *' green hands" in 
their maiden efforts at sailing these 
dories, as strange and startling results 
often follow the rash experiments of an 
adventurous tyro. But apart from the 
comic element, valuable lessons in yacht- 
racing may be learned by steering and 
manoeuvring a dory against a fleet of 
half-a-dozen eager competitors. Thus, 
yachtsmen cannot help approving this 
new Riverside venture, originated, I 
believe, by Mr. F. Bowne Jones, of the 
Regatta Committee. 

The origin of the one- design class was 
Dublin Bay, where the '' Water Wag" 
type was first evolved. A Norwegian 
praam with a boiler-plate centerboard, 
combining ballast and lateral resistance, 
and carrying a big sail, was built in 
1878 at Shankhill. She was christened 
Ccmiostama and proved an ideal boat. 
The conditions w^ere a sloping sandy 
shore on which the high surf not infre- 



62 BOAT SAILING. 

quently broke, and trom which the craft 
had to be launched every time her 
owner wanted a sail, and onto which 
she had to be beached after the cruise 
was finished. Cemiostaina was a capital 
sea-boat ; she pointed well, hit what 
she aimed at, did not sag off to lee- 
ward, and v/as quite fast. When the cen- 
terboard, weighing about one hundred 
pounds, w^as raised she ran up easily on 
the beach, resting quietly on her flat bot- 
tom. Her centerboard was then lifted 
out, and her crew of two hauled her up. 

The knowing Irish yachtsmen, appre- 
ciating a good thing, saw that there was 
a lot of fun in a boat of this class, and 
several were built, and many scrub races 
were indulged in. In 1887 the Water 
Wag Association was started, the craft 
being built on the same lines and the 
sail-area being limited. Their dimen- 
sions were thirteen feet in length, with 
a beam of four feet ten inches, full lines 
and a flat floor. 

The Water Wags are presided over by 
a king and a queen, bishop, knights and 
rooks ; and although the boats were at 
flrst used principally for pleasure, they 
are now racers pure and simple. Their 
headquarters are now in Kingstown Har- 
bor, and prizes are put up for them at 
all the local regattas. They are very 
handy, too, and quite admirable for the 
purpose for which they were designed. 
They cost from $75 to $100, and the 
rules that govern their races provide 
that they shall be similar in every re- 
spect except sail-plan. The mast must 



THE KNO CKA BOUT CLA SS£S. 63 

not exceed thirteen feet over all, meas- 
ured from top of keel to truck ; the fore 
and aft sails must not exceed seventy- 
five square feet in area, and the spin- 
naker (which is to be used only before 
the wind and never as a jib) must not 
exceed sixty square feet. 

Each boat shall carry no less than 
two or more than three persons in a 
race, all of whom shall be amateurs. A 
member or a lady may steer. No prize 
shall be awarded a boat for a sail-over, 
but she may fly a winning- flag therefor. 
A pair of oars and a life-buoy must be 
carried in every race. It is only right 
to mention that these sailing regulations 
are vigorously enforced. 

The latest one-design class estab- 
lished by our rollicking Irish cousins is 
known as the 25-footers of the Dublin 
Bay Sailing Club. These craft are of 
such noteworthy type as to deserve a 
few lines of description and approval 
here, especially as it was wisely decided 
that the type shall not be altered for 
five years from January i, 1898. The 
boats, of which quite a number w^ere 
built and raced, are deep-keeled cutters 
of the following dimensions : Length 
over all, 37 feet 3 inches ; length on 
load water-line, 25 feet ; beam, 8 feet 8 
inches ; draught, 6 feet 3 inches ; lead on 
keel, 3 tons 5 cwt., and sail area, 845 
square feet, divided into a mainsail 
laced to the boom, gafftopsail, foresail 
and jib. A second jib, jibtopsail, bal- 
loon foresail, spinnaker, storm jib and 
trysail may also be carried. The design, 



64 BOAT SAILING. 

made by Will Fife, Jr., of Fairlie, is 
handsome, the type being eminently 
adapted for Dublin Bay. Restrictions 
of the strictest kind ensure the boats 
being exactly alike in size, material, 
construction and canvas. 

The '^Mermaids," a craft much used 
by the B division of the same club, are 
large Water Wags, i8 feet long, with 6 
feet beam, fitted with centerboards, but 
carrying no ballast, and limited when 
racing to i8o square feet of sail. These 
are vastly popular, and a dozen or so 
race every Saturday afternoon during 
the season. 

Although one-design racing origi- 
nated on the other side of the Atlantic, 
it is questionable if any one class has 
been sailed with more spirit or persist- 
ency than were the Herreshoff 30-foot- 
ers at Newport during the yachting- 
season of 1897 and since. 

That the classes are destined to pros- 
per there is no doubt, the only condi- 
tion being that the type must be care- 
fully adapted to the location for which 
it is intended, and the more it is avail- 
able for fishing excursions and pleasure 
trips the greater favor will attend it. 
Another helpful feature is the substan- 
iiA economic gain from the construction 
of several boats by the same builder 
from the same design. 



Vi. 
KEHP YOUR WEATHER EYE OPEN. 

THE sailer of a boat, little or big, 
should keep his weather eye 
open all the time. When sail- 
ing in a river where the banks 
are of irregular height he should be 
especially on his guard, because puffs 
of considerable violence frequently 
come with little or no warning. A 
few inches of sheet eased off, and 
a gentle luff not quite sufficient to 
spill the sail, will generally prevent the 
shipping of water over the lee gunwale, 
and a possible capsize. Thus the main- 
sheet should never be made fast per- 
manently, and should always be coiled 
so as to be clear for running. A neglect 
of either of these precautions has often 
been attended with fatal results. If by 
any mischance the mainsheet becomes 
jammed do not hesitate, but cut it. A 
sharp knife in such an emergency has 
often saved life when an upset has 
seemed inevitable through the boat be- 
ing nearly on her beam ends. If you 
are sailing in a jib and mainsail craft, 
and the squall has a good deal of weight 
in it, let fly the jib sheet and let the 
boat come up in the wind, at the same 
time lowering away the mainsail and 
taking care to spill it a5 it comes down. 



66 BOAT SAILING, 

A reef should then be taken in, and the 
boat be filled away on her course. 

While sailing anywhere in the vicinity 
of New York, and when one of those 
heavy thunder-squalls that are so fre-= 
quent in the summer time is seen rising 
in the northwest, waste no time. If not 
in too deep water, anchor at once and 
stow your sails snugly. You can then 
ride out the fury of the squall in perfect 
safety ; that is, if your ground tackle 
is sufficiently strong. If your cable 
parts and you are on a lee shore and 
there is a harbor to run for, scud for it 
under bare poles or with a fragment of 
sail set. If there is no refuge under 
your lee, set as much sail as your boat 
can safely carry and thresh her off shore. 
The chances are that you will be suc- 
cessful, because these squalls while often 
very dangerous seldom last long, and 
are generally followed by a flat calm 
which is more exasperating than a blow. 

We will take it for granted, however, 
that your anchor and chain are of the 
correct strength and quality, and that 
you bring up before the squall strikes 
you. If you have time it would be well 
to close-reef your mainsail before furl- 
ing it, and then you would be prepared 
for any emergency. But let me impress 
upon all who are in charge of boats 
with women and children aboard, that 
it is their duty, when one of those peril- 
fraught thunder-squalls is seen ap- 
proaching, to dowse every stitch of sail 
at once and let go the anchor. There 
is a wide gulf between bravado and 



KEEP YO UR WE A THER EYE OPEN, 67 

bravery, and no truly courageous man 
would imperil the lives of anyone, 
especially of helpless women and chil- 
dren. The rash carrying on of canvas 
has been responsible for more loss of 
life on the water than any other cause. 
It is a seaman who shortens sail in 
time, but a lubber who " cracks on till 
all's blue." 

Great caution is necessary when pass- 
ing under the lee of a vessel at anchor 
or under way, especially in a fresh 
breeze. Your boat is sure to get be- 
calmed and may possibly nearly lose 
her way, so that as she draws clear 
of the object the full force of the 
breeze will strike her when she has 
scarcely steerage w^ay on. The result 
may be a complete knockdown or even 
a capsize. Therefore have your main- 
sheet clear for running, and do not 
hesitate to let it fly in a hurry before 
your little vessel's gunwale is anywhere 
near the water. By all means endeavor 
to keep clear of vessels at anchor. Do 
not try to get in the wash of steam- 
boats, as some foolhardy persons do, 
"just for fun." On the contrary take 
special pains to avoid them. When 
you must encounter their wash, which 
in the case of large and fast steamers 
is heavy and dangerous, do your best 
to let your boat take the brunt of the 
waves on the bluff of the bow. If they 
strike her broadside on, swamping is a 
possibility not far remote. 

In sailing a boat in rough water the 
greatest precaution is necessary. A 



68 BOAT SAILING. 

craft that in smooth water could safely 
carry all sail,- might when the sea is 
perturbed be forced to stagger along 
under double reefs, the force of the 
wind being the same in both instances. 
Especially is this the case when the 
wind and sea are both abeam, the former 
strong and the latter heavy. This is 
probably the most dangerous point of 
sailing there is, and requires the most 
careful touch of the tiller. A boat heeled 
over to fifteen degrees by the force of the 
wind, by the joint influence of a sudden 
puff and a heavy roll to leeward may be 
inclined to such an angle that a capsize 
is inevitable. When there seems to be 
any danger of this mishap occurring the 
helmsman must not close his eyes to 
keep them warm. When he sees a 
larger wave than usual coming along he 
should put his helm up a little, so that 
it may strike the boat abaft the beam and 
so reduce the danger to a minimum. 
The judicious application of weather 
helm in a beam sea has saved many a 
big ship's deck from being swept, and 
many a small boat from being capsized. 
It is in my judgment rash to sail a 
small boat under these conditions unless 
it is imperative, such as when a harbor 
is being entered, or when the boat's 
course must necessarily be steered with 
wind and sea abeam. I should strongly 
advise the hauling of the boat on a wind 
until she reaches the point where her 
sheets may be eased off and she can be 
headed for her destination with wind 
and sea on the quarter. A boat with 



KEEP YO UR WE A THER EYE OPEN, 69 

any pretensions at all can be sailed 
close-hauled in rough water with safety 
if certain elementary precautions are 
observed. Everybody on board except 
the helmsman should sit amidships in 
the bottom of the boat, so as to keep 
the weight as low as possible and the 
craft herself in her natural trim. No 
unusual weight is wanted in the bow 
of the vessel, which should lift in a 
prompt and lively manner to each sea. 
In an open boat and a nasty sea no 
more sail should be carried than will 
keep her under proper command. 

A great deal depends upon the nerve 
and skill of the man at the tiller. Keep 
her moving all the time. If a big wave 
threatens to come aboard over the 
weather bow, luff smartly into it and 
meet it as nearly end on as possible. 
Then up with the helm at once and fill 
on her again, repeating the process as 
often as it may be needful. Never let the 
lee gunwale get under water in a sea- 
way, nor at any other time, but always 
luff before it is too late, and help her to 
come up in the wind if necessary by 
easing away the jib sheet. 

If the wind keeps increasing and the 
sea rising, haul down the headsail and 
pass a gasket round it, close-reef your 
mainsail, previously seeing your sea an- 
chor clear for letting go. If you have no 
sea anchor with you, rig some sort of a 
raft with oars, boathook and sails, the lat- 
ter lashed securely to the spars. Make a 
line fast to this raft and pay out about 
twenty fathoms and let the boat ride to 



70 BOAT SAILING. 

it as to an anchor. It is surprising what 
a good effect this contrivance has in 
breaking the^ waves and keeping the 
boat head to sea. Nothing else can now 
be done until the gale moderates suffi- 
ciently for sail to be made and the boat 
headed for her destination. It may be 
consolatory to those aboard a craft in 
such a contingency to buoy themselves 
up by remembering that some of the 
heaviest gales known have been safely 
ridden out in cockleshell boats without 
any damage to crew, hull or gear. 



DROGUE, OR SEA ANCHOR. 

The sea anchor consists of a hinge- 
jointed galvanized ring about three feet 
in diameter. A conical bag made of 
stout canvas is sewed to the ring and 
roped, as shown in sketch. A bridle is 
fitted to the ring, to which the riding 
hawser is bent. A cork buoy prevents 
the anchor from diving. When thrown 
overboard the mouth of the anchor 
opens and fills. To hoist the anchor on 
board, the tripping line, shown in dia- 
gram, is hauled on. When not in use the 



KEEP YO UR WE A THER EYE OPEN. 71 




DIAGRAM OF FLOAT- 
ING ANCHOR. 



ring is folded together by the joints, and 
the bag is made fast snugly round it. 
Another plan for 
making a floating anch- 
or is shown below. K, 
M, N, O, are the ends 
of two iron bars formed 
into a cross and connect- 
ed by a stout bolt, nut 
and pin at their inter- 
section, S. At each end 
of the bars is an eye 
through which a strong 
rope is rove, hauled 
taut, and well secured. 
Thus a square is form- 
ed, and over the square 
a piece of strong can- 
vas is laced to the roping. Four ropes 
are made fast to the iron bars, forming 
a bridle. To this the riding hawser 
is made fast. To prevent the anchor 
from sinking, a buoy, B, is made fast 
to one corner by a rope, with five or six 
fathoms of drift. The buoy rope, P, 
leads on board. H is the hawser to 
which the boat is riding, A is the anch- 
or, and B the buoy. To get the anchor 
aboard haul in on the line, P. This will 
cause the anchor to cant edgewise, and 
it can then be easily hauled in. 

In scudding before a strong wind and 
a heavy sea in a small craft, a trysail is 
always preferable to a sail with a boom, 
which may effect much mischief by 
trailing in the water or suddenly gybing. 
The helmsman must be always on the 
alert to prevent the boat from ^' broach- 



72 BOAT SAILING. 

ing to," which means flying up in the 
wind ; or from being '' brought by the 
lee," which means running off so as to 
brmg the wind on the other quarter. 
A long, narrow boat will always run 
before the wind better than a short, 
beamy craft, as she is better adapted 
for taking the seas, and she also steers 
easier, not yawing about so much or 
turning round every few minutes to 
take a look at her wake. The inex- 
perienced boat sailer should bear in 
mind that scudding in a seaway is tick- 




FLOATING ANCHOR IN USE. 

lish work, and is not unlikely to be 
attended with peril. If you have no 
trysail, reef the mainsail and lower the 
peak. Hoist on the weather topping 
lift so as to keep the boom as high as 
possible out of the water. By no means 
run a boat before the wind until it blows 
too hard and the sea is too high to heave 
to with safety. If the breeze seems 
likely to pipe up, make up your mind 
immediately. Delay is dangerous. 
Have your sea anchor ready. Watch 



KEEP YO UR WE A THER EYE 01^ EN. 73 

for a smooth. When it comes put your 
helm down smartly, trimming in tiie 
mainsheet. When she gets the wind on 
the bow, heave your sea anchor over- 
board and ride to it either with the 
mainsail set or lowered, as may be 
deemed best. 

If you happen to be on a lee shore, 
with the surf breaking high on the 
beach, and you cannot claw off, do not 
wait until it is too late and your boat is 
in the breakers. Let go the anchor, and 
if it holds try to ride out the storm. If 
your ground tackle gives way, do your 
best to set the mainsail and steer boldly 
for the shore. The faster you go the 
better chance you have to be carried 
high and dry. Remember that this will 
give you a fighting chance for your life, 
whereas if your boat gets broadside on 
in the breakers she will most likely roll 
over and over and in all probability 
drown you and your' crew. 

It may be thought preposterous for 
me to advocate the use of oil to break 
the force of curling wave-crests when 
a small craft is riding to a raft or sea 
anchor. Most people would naturally 
suppose that a boat could not carry 
enough oil aboard her for it to have 
any beneficial effect in smoothing a 
turbulent sea. Nor could it if it was 
poured into the ocean out of its original 
package, or out of "bags with small 
holes punctured in their bottoms," as 
some marine experts advise. The 
proper way to apply oil is to fill a round 
bottomed canvas bag, about two feet 



74 BOAT SAILING, 

long and eight inches in diameter, three 
parts full of oakum or cotton waste. 
Do not pack too tightly. Pour into this 
as much fish or animal oil as the oakurn 
or waste will suck up. Sew the mouth 
up tightly with palm and needle. Se- 
cure a lanyard to it. Make a few holes 
in its sides with a marlinespike and hang 
it over the lee bow, and you will be 
surprised at the result. The seas, in- 
stead of breaking over the boat and 
threatening to swamp her, will become 
comparatively smooth as soon as they 
approach the limits of the film of the oil 
as it oozes slowly out of the bag. When 
running over a harbor bar where the 
sea is breaking badly^ a couple of these 
bags suspended from either bow will 
prevent the waves from pooping the 
little craft and help her materially in her 
struggle for existence. Mineral oil will 
do if no other is available, and a gallon 
of it will go a long way if used in the 
manner mentioned above. These bags 
should be carried all ready for use when 
cruising, so that all you will have to do 
is to pour the oil in, sew up the mouths 
and hang them over the bows by the 
lanyards. A ship's boat with a dozen 
men aboard once safely weathered an 
Atlantic gale by riding to a couple of 
buckets and a cork fender saturated 
with kerosene. Pouring oil on troubled 
waters is by no means a case of bluff or 
the dream of an opium smoker, but a 
capital "wrinkle*' by means of which 
many a good man has been saved from 
Davy Jones* yawning locker. I trust 



76 BOAT SAILING. 

that these little bags will form part of 
the outfit of all going on long cruises. 
They may serve as pillows or may be 
made in the shape of cushions, so long 
as the above general idea is followed. 

As a striking instance of the value of 
oil in a heavy gale I will quote the case 
of the British ship Slivemore^ w^hich 
took fire in June, 1885, while in the In- 
dian Ocean about eight hundred miles 
northeastward of the Seychelle Islands. 
The ship was abandoned and the boats 
steered for the islands. Capt. Conly, 
of the Slivemore^ gave orders that each 
boat should take aboard two cans of 
paint oil for use in bad weather, and he 
also instructed the officer in command 
of each boat in the use of the oil. Three 
days after the ship was left the boats 
encountered a cyclone. Drags made 
from spars, oars and sails lashed together 
were rigged, and to these improvised 
sea anchors the frail craft rode securely. 
Stockings filled with oakum saturated 
with the oil were hung over the bows of 
the boats and formed an oil-slick of con- 
siderable expanse. Before the stock- 
ings were hung out the boats narrowly 
escaped being swamped and the men 
had to bail hard with buckets. The oil 
prevented the seas from breaking and 
the boats rode over the enormous waves 
in safety. Little water w^as shipped, and 
those on board the boats were able to 
lie down and sleep while a tropical 
cyclone was raging furiously. All the 
boats reached the islands in safety with- 
out the loss of a man, but had it not 



KEEP YO UR WEA THEREYE OPEN. 77 

been for the oil the loss of the Sltve- 
inore would have remained an untold 
mystery of the ocean. 

A still more wonderful example of 
the efficacy of oil is told by the captain 
of the ship Martha Cobb^ and it relates 
to the achievement of a sixteen-foot 
dingh}^ In December, i-886, the Mar- 
tha Cobby petroleum laden, encountered 
a heavy gale in the North Atlantic. 
She shipped some tremendous seas 
which swept away all her large boats, 
washed away her bulwarks and played 
havoc generally with her decks. The 
only boat that was left uninjured was 
the aforesaid sixteen-foot dinghy, in- 
tended solely for smooth water work. 

While laboring and plunging in the 
mountainous sea, the Martha Cobb fell 
in with a sinking vessel flying signals 
of distress to the effect that the water 
was fast gaining on her and that all her 
boats were stove in. The captain of 
the Martha Cobb determined to stand 
by the vessel in distress, in the hope 
that the gale would abate. He knew 
that his little cockleshell of a dinghy 
could not possibly live in such weather, 
and that it would be suicidal to lower 
her and attempt a rescue. 

After standing by till near nightfall 
with no prospect of the storm moderat- 
ing, the commander of the Martha 
Cobb determined to make an effort to 
save the crew of the fast foundering 
craft. The Martha Cobb's petroleum 
was in casks, some of which leaked. 
The captain had noticed that when the 



78 BOAT SAILING, 

pumps were being worked the sea in 
the wake of his ship was always much 
smoother. He got the Martha Cobb to 
windward of the wreck and started the 
pumps, in the hope that the oil in the 
well and bilges would create a smooth 
when it reached the sea, so that the 
dinghy could be lowered in safety. 

He found, however, that the ships 
drifted faster than the oil, so that while 
the sea to windward was comparatively 
smooth the water to leeward was rough 
as ever. So he kept his ship away, ran 
down under the vessel's stern and luffed 
up under her lee. Then he started the 
pumps and also allowed a five-gallon 
can of fish oil to trickle into the water 
through the scuppers. The effect was 
almost miraculous. In less than half- 
an-hour the crested surges and breaking 
combers were converted into long heavy 
swells such as you see when a calm has 
succeeded a heavy gale. 

The little dinghy was lowered, and 
manned by three men was pulled to 
windward alongside the wreck with lit- 
tle difficulty. All hands were rescued, 
and the tiny boat, while engaged in the 
gallant work, shipped no water. All this 
time the waves were breaking furiously 
outside the magic limit of the oil- slick. 

One more illustration and I am done. 
Capt. Amlot, of the steamer Barrowmore^ 
on January twenty-fourth, 1885, while in 
51 degrees north latitude and 21 degrees 
west longitude, fell in with the sinking 
ship Kirkwood. This ship had for part of 
her cargo several hundred casks of can^ 



KEEP YO UR WE A T HER EYE OPEN. 79 

ned salmon. In order to make a smooth 
and allow the boat of the Barrowmore 
to come alongside in safety, the crew of 
the AjVy^ze/^^^^ broached a number of the 
cases, and opening the cans poured the 
oil from them into the sea. This had 
the desired result, and although the sea 
was very heavy the oil reduced it rapid- 
ly, and the boat of the Barrozvmore had 
no difficulty in taking off the twenty-six 
men that composed the ship's company 
of the Kirkwood. 

Two quarts of oil used per hour will 
produce effective results. A ship scud- 
ding before the wind, with a mountain- 
ous sea running and threatening to 
poop her, has expended this amount and 
kept dry. Experts have calculated that 
this quantity of oil has covered the sea 
with an infinitesimal film measuring 
thirty feet in width and ten nautical 
miles in length. As the thickness of this 
film is only .0000047 of ^^ inch, its effi- 
cacy is indeed marvelous. 

A simple and excellent device for dis- 
tributing oil has been invented by Capt. 
Townsend, of the United States Signal 
Office. It is cheap and convenient, and is 
especially adapted for use in boats or 
small yachts. It has been thus described : 

'^ It consists of a hollow metal globe 
ten inches in diaineter, with a capacity of 
about one and a-half gallons of oil. It 
has an air chamber separated by a par- 
tition to keep it afloat in a certain posi- 
tion, and there are two valves. When 
filled with oil the upper valve is ad- 
justed to allow oil to flow out at any de- 



80 



BOAT SAILING. 



sired rate, while the lower valve admits 
water. When placed in the sea it floats 
with the upper valve a little above the 
surface, and water will enter to displace 
the oil from the graduated upper valve. 




The specific gravity of oil will keep it 
in the upper part of the distributor, and 
the motion of the globe on the breaking 
waves or swell w411 insure the ejection 
of the oil through the graduated valve 
in any quantity." 

This may be used by towing over the 
bow when running, or made fast to a sea 
anchor when hove to. 

People inclined to be skeptical are, of 
course, at liberty to doubt the efficacy 
of oil to lessen the . 

dansferous ef- /^ ^\ 
feet of heavy seas, oz^'^S^^..^^ 
but the examples I / \ 

have quoted are 
simply a few culled 
from several hun- 
dred well authenti- 
cated cases. 

The lesson learned from the Ship- 
wash lightship ever so many years ago,. 
has not been without profit and benefit 
to naval architects. Let mq spin you the 



PLAN OF OIL DLSTRIBUTOR. 



KEEP VO UR WE A THER EYE OPEN. 81 

yarn. The Shipwash lightship is moor- 
ed in one of the most exposed places on 
the east coast of England, and is thus 
continually encountering particularly 
heavy seas. It came to pass that the 
old lightship \vas replaced by a new and 
scientific vessel. The new-fangled craft 
was, however, so remarkably unsteady 
and rolled so heavily that to the storm- 
tossed mariner beating up the coast her 
light appeared to be of crescent shape. 
Her crew got scared. They w^ere afraid 
she would turn turtle. A surveyor from 
the Trinity House was sent aboard, and 
he made a report which was submitted 
to her designer, who eventually said 
the fault complained of could be easily 
remedied by the addition of extra bal- 
last. Accordingly this was done, and 
the next gale she rode out her rolling 
was worse than ever, and produced 
quite a panic among her crew, who 
were afraid to go below while the storm 
lasted. Another report was made to 
headquarters. Other students of naval 
architecture were consulted, who not 
only advised that the extra ballast 
be taken out, but that four tons of lead 
be attached to the frame or cage sup- 
porting the light. These instructions 
were carried out, and the result was the 
steadiest lightship on the east coast. 

A vessel will carry herself full of coal 
and behave herself in heavy weather. 
But when she comes to be laden with 
copper ore or lead, a certain amount of 
ingenuity has to be used in the storage 
of such heavy cargo to make her sea- 



82 



BOAT SAILING, 



worthy at all. If it were all stowed in 
the bottom of the vessel she would roll 
so heavily in a seaway as to get dis- 
masted, and would probably become a 
total wreck. It is now that the ex- 
perienced art of the stevedore comes in. 
The man who follows the proper au- 
thorities would construct a bin or com- 
partment in which to stow this danger- 
ous freight thus : 




The result would be highly satisfac- 
tory. The vessel's center of gravity 
would be the same as though she were 
laden with coal, and her movements in a 
seaway would therefore be quite as easy. 

Another man might construct his 
compartment thus : 




The vessel in this case would labor 
quite heavily on the slightest provoca- 
tion and would not be so steady or so 
seaworthy as the one first mentioned, 
with the narrow bin or compartment 
extending to the upper deck. 



KEEP YO UR WE A THER E YE OPEN. 83 

The same remarks apply to the bal- 
lasting of yachts. Before the days of 
outside lead, when pleasure craft shifted 
their racing for a cruising rig prepara- 
tory to a deep-water voyage, it was 
customary to raise the inside lead ballast 
by placing layers of cork beneath it, 
thus ensuring easy movements in a sea- 
way. Racing yachts nowadays have 
all their weight outside, and this de- 
vice for their relief cannot therefore be 
resorted to. When crossing the Atlantic, 
say for a race for i\\e America's Cup, 
they are always in danger of getting 
caught in a gale of wind and an accom- 
panying mountainous sea. In order to 
prevent excessive rolling, which might 
endanger the mast and consequently the 
vessel herself, it is necessary to keep a 
press of sail set. For this purpose a 
trysail with plenty of hoist to it is indis- 
pensable. It should not be one of those 
jib-headed impostors that some racing 
skippers most unaccountably affect, but 
one with a good long gaff that will suc- 
cessfully prevent the otherwise inevit- 
able and peril-fraught roll to windward. 

A yacht under these circumstances, it 
is true, cannot carry a great press of 
canvas when on the top of one of those 
big rollers that a gale soon kicks up in 
the Atlantic. But she wants as much 
of her sail area as possible exposed to 
the gale when she is in the hollow of 
the wave. Otherwise there will not be 
sufficient pressure to prevent her from 
rolling to windward. 

Rolling to windward — easy enough to 



84 BOAT SAILING 

write, you may think — but every sailor 
knows what may follow. Green seas 
fore and aft, mast sprung, men washed 
overboard ; and if the gale does not 
abate, why, Davy Jones' locker for all 
hands and the cook ! 

The storm trysail must necessarily be 
a sheet-footed sail set over the furled 
mainsail. It is a sail comparatively 
narrow at the foot, but it should for ob- 
vious reasons be made as broad as pos- 
sible at the head, in proper proportion 
of course to the breadth of the foot. It 
need not have quite as much hoist as 
the mainsail, for the throat halyards at 
such a time must have a good drift, 
while to keep the sail inboard the peak 
should be quite extreme. It follows, 
therefore, that although the rollers may 
be high the peak of the trysail is above 
them, and the yacht is kept jogging 
along steadily without any sudden and 
violent shocks or strains to spar or rig- 
ging. 

The following rough sketches will, I 
think, serve to demonstrate the superi- 
ority of the gaff-headed trysail over 
that abortion, the thimble-headed va- 
riety, which I do not hesitate to con- 
demn as useless for a modern yacht 
ballasted with outside lead in a seaway. 



No. I shows vessel with gaffheaded 



KEEP YO UR WE A THER EYE OPEN. 85 

sail on the crest of a wave. She drops 
down into the hollow of the wave and 
becomes No. 2. The shaded part of the 
sail catches the wind over the crests of 
the waves, and the area so exposed is 
sufficient to steady the vessel and give 
her a safe heel or list. 




Now I wish to call your attention to 
No. 3. She has enough sail spread when 
on the crest of a wave. But observe her 
when in the hollow. She has scarcely a 
stitch of sail above the level of the crest. 
The consequence is that her weight 
being so low down, and her form having 
so much stability, she swings with a 
violent roll to windward and her mast 
is thereby imperilled. This is the result 
of not having the requisite amount of 
pressure at the head of the sail. 

The commanders of square-rigged 
vessels always bear this in mind. They 
heave to under a close-reefed maintop- 
sail, never under a lower course, and the 
ship v/hen in the trough of the sea has 
enough sail exposed to keep her steady. 
The smart schooners that used to ply 
between St. Michaels and London in the 
fruit trade, and that were bound to make 
smart passages or lose money, were 
always fitted with gaffheaded trysails, 
and found them most efficacious in beat- 



86 BOAT SAILING. 

ing to windward in strong gales. Their 
sturdy skippers would have looked with 
contempt and ridicule upon any person 
so fatuous as to recommend a jibheaded 
trysail. And they were skilled sailors 
of fore-and-aft rigged craft, and were 
well acquainted with that stretch of the 
wild Atlantic between the Lizard and 
the Azores. These vessels used to beat 
up the English Channel in the teeth of 
an easterly gale and fight their way 
homeward inch by inch, and I consider 
the practical experience of their cap- 
tains as far more reliable than the theo- 
retical vagaries of men who were never 
out of soundings in a small craft. 

What is true of comparatively large 
yachts in an Atlantic gale applies 
equally to the small cruiser. The theory 
is precisely the same, and in ordering a 
storm trysail from his sailmaker the 
aspiring owner of a smart, seaworthy 
cruiser might well be guided by the few 
hints given above. A gaff headed trysail 
is just what he wants to steady his boat 
when hove to, and to counteract that 
tendency toward rolling that outside 
lead always has on the hull of a boat in 
a seaway. 

When coming to anchor at any other 
time than low water, do not forget to 
allow for the fall of the tide. For in- 
stance, if you bring up in lo feet of 
water when the tide is high, in a boat 
drawing, say 5 feet, and the range of rise 
and fall is also 5 feet, at low water your 
vessel would be aground and perhaps 
under tmtoward circumstances in danger 



KEEP YO UR WE A THER-EYEOPEN. 87 

of damage or even total loss. This hint 
is worth remembering in many parts of 
the world, especially in some parts of 
the Bay of Fundy, where there is a 
range of no less than 50 feet ! Sound- 
ings on the chart denote the depth at 
mean low water. 




VII. 
OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 

NO matter how small a craft the 
yachtsman owns she will, after a 
winter's lay-up, require a good 
deal of attention before she is fit 
for the water ; and there is no reason 
why a keen yachtsman who owns a tidy 
little craft should not fit her out himself 
in his spare time. In fact, I am acquaint- 
ed with many boat-owners who find 
nearly as much delight in getting their 
own vessels into proper fettle for the 
season's sport as they do in navigating 
them. There is much to be said in favor 
of this enterprise. The principal argu- 
ment is that a man overhauling the hull 
of the boat which belongs to him will 
not be at all likely to "scamp " the work. 
On the contrary, it is to his interest to do 
the job thoroughly while he is about it, 
for he is improving his own property ; 
whereas if he employs a mechanic to do 
it by piece work, or by the day, the task 
may be performed in a manner more or 
less perfunctory, or at any rate without 
the attention to minor details which the 
actual proprietor would be expected to 
bring to the task. 

I would not counsel a man to at- 
tempt repairs which call for the skilled 
shipwright or boat-builder. The result 
would in all probability be a lamentable 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 89 

failure, and in the end a mechanic would 
have to be called in. But the work of 
cleaning, painting and varnishing a hull 
intrinsically sound may be accomplished 
by the man or boy of average intelli- 
gence and industry. 

What is true about a hall is still more 
so of her rig. When I first went to sea 
on a deep-water voyage, as soon as the 
ship was out of soundings the crew's 
first duty was to undo the work of the 
professional rigger, stay the masts anew 
by shrouds and backstays, and replace 
the hurried botch-work of knots and 
splices by seamanlike and shipshape 
work. 

Anything in the shape of a boat may 
be made water-tight, no matter how 
leaky she may be, if treated with care- 
ful ingenuity. I would be the last man 
to suggest patching and puttying up 
a ramshackle craft w^hose frames and 
planking are rotten. Supposing, how- 
ever, that the hull is fairly sound, but 
through exposure to the hot sun her 
planks are cracked in sundry places, and 
that in fact she leaks like a sieve, there 
is no reason why she should be con- 
demned. There is a lot of good fun to 
be got out of a craft of this kind, if the 
proper repairs are made. If put in the 
hands of a professional boat-builder the 
cost would be very high, even if he 
could be induced to undertake the work. 
Here, then, is where a handy man or 
boy has a capital opportunity to try his 
hand as a craftsman. I repaired an old 
1 8 foot boat in my younger days, when 



90 BOAT SAILING. 

money was scarce and I had the alter- 
native of giving tip my pet diversion of 
sailing or making the ancient bucket 
tight. 

This is how I went about it. 

The craft in question was hauled out 
on the shore above high-water mark. 
She had been abandoned by her rightful 
owner, who had moved inland and left 
her to the tender mercies of the sun in 
summer and the snow in winter. For 
sixteen months she lay on the beach 
neglected. Every day I cast covetous 
eyes on her. I will make a clean breast 
of it now in my old age and confess that 
I had contemplated stealing her. That 
sin was, however, spared me, as I found 
her owner's address and wrote, asking 
if he Avould sell her. He replied that 
he would give her to me and welcome, 
and thus made me the happiest youth 
in the land. 

The boat was originally a first-class 
little lap-streaker of good model, built 
of teak throughout and copper-fastened ; 
but there were many cracks in her 
planks and most of her fastenings were 
loose, and in a general way she might 
be described as ^'nail-sick** all over. 
With the help of a couple of chums I 
placed her on chocks and shored her up 
on an even keel, supporting her well, 
so that she should not suffer from any 
unequal strain when I filled her later on 
with water. She was very dirty inside, 
and I remember it took me the greater 
part of a day to thoroughly clean her 
with soap, hot w^ater and a scrubbing 



VERHA ULING THE YACHT. 91 

brush. Then I put the plug in and 
started to fill her up with water. Al- 
though I had plenty of help from the 
village boys, who were never so joyous 
as when pottering about a boat, it took 
a long time to fill her, for the water 
poured out of her like the streams from 
a shower-bath. But her dry and thirsty 
planks soon began to swell a little and 
the leaks to diminish. I kept her as 
full of water as possible for two or three 
days, marking with chalk every leak 
that appeared. I may remark that the 
chocks on which her keel was raised 
were high enough for me to crawl com- 
pletely under her bottom and get at 
every part of her. Her hull, which 
originally had been varnished to show 
the grain of the natural wood, was pretty 
well checkered with chalk-marks by the 
time I had finished. Then I let the 
water drain out of her, and waited until 
she was dried thoroughly by wind and 
sun. 

Meanwhile I bought a lot of copper 
nails of the requisite length and rooves 
to match, with the use of which I 
had become thoroughly familiar from 
watching the men in the boat-shop 
hard by. 

Then I began operations, aided by an 
apprentice from the boat-builder's estab- 
lishment whom I induced, by the proffer 
of pocket money, to turn out of his bed 
at dawn and lend me a hand till «the 
clang of the bell summoned him to his 
daily toil. We replaced all the rivets that 
had worked very loose with new ones 



92^ BOAT SAILING. 

of a larger size, and drove an additional 
nail between every two originally driven. 
The old nails, which were only a little 
slack, I hardened with a few taps of the 
hammer from the inside, while Toby, 
the afore-mentioned apprentice, "held 
on " against the heads of the nails with 
another hammer on the outside. This 
was slow and tedious work, but it paid 
in the long run, for it made the boat 
almost as good as new, her frames, as I 
have already mentioned, being in capital 
condition. 

My next operation was to borrow a 
pitch-kettle from the boat shop and to 
put in it a pound of pitch and a gallon 
of North Carolina tar. Kindling a fire 
under it I let it boil until the pitch 
had melted, stirring it constantly. This 
mixture I applied boiling hot to the in- 
side of the boat with a paint-brush, fill- 
ing every crevice and ledge up to the 
level of the underside of the thwarts. 
It was astonishing what a quantity of 
this composition the planks absorbed. I 
put only half a ladleful of the tar into my 
paint-pot at a time, so that it should not 
stand long enough to cool, replenishing 
every few minutes from the boiling 
kettle. Tar when at the boiling point 
is comparatively thin, and has superior 
penetrative qualities, so it can be worked 
with the point of the brush into every 
crevice, no matter how minute. When 
it hardens it forms a w^ater-tight seam 
which possesses, from the nature of its 
ingredients, a certain amount of elas- 
ticity. 



O VERHA ULING THE YACHT. 98 

There were a number of sun-cracks in 
the planking, which I filled with fish 
glue, run in hot from the outside. This 
composition dries very hard and does 
not crack. My next task was to sand- 
paper the outside, smoothing the very 
rough places with pumice-stone after 
wetting them well. I ached all over by 
the time this process was completed but 
I got her as smooth as glass. Then I 
gave her outside a couple of good coats 
of raw linseed oil applied on a hot day. 
As a finish, not caring to waste money 
on varnish, I gave her a final coat of 
boiled linseed oil, in w^hich a generous 
lump of rosin had been melted. This 
is the mixture used from time im- 
memorial by the Dutch on the bottoms 
and topsides of their galliots, and it 
wears well and looks well, resisting the 
action of both fresh and salt water. I 
may say that this method of making 
my boat water-tight w^as economical and 
successful. The example may be fol- 
lowed with similar results by anybody 
who owns a leaky lapstreak craft. 

Another method, as practiced on a St. 
Lawrence skifE that was badly checked 
and rotten in place.s, is thus described 
by a veteran boatman who made the suc- 
cessful experiment : ^^The boat was of 
lapstreak construction, and many of the 
seams had opened. I went entirely over 
the boat, first closing the seams as much 
as possible by drawing together w4th 
clout-nails. Next, where there were 
cracks through the 3 16-inch planking, 
I cleaned the painted surface, and 



94 BOAT SAILING. 

where the paint had blistered I removed 
all of it by scraping. When the sur- 
face was in proper condition I cut a 
strip of eight-ounce duck of a length 
and width to cover the crack (generally 
y^ inch was wide enough) and smeared 
one side, by means of a stick, with liquid 
glue. The canvas was applied to the 
crack and pressed down, and the glue- 
stick drawn over the raveled ends from 
the center outward, to make them ad- 
here closely to the boat. Then the can- 
vas and surrounding wood were brushed 
over with enamel paint. The painting 
must be done before the glue sets, as 
otherwise the canvas is apt to warp. 
Open cracks y^ inch wide were covered 
in this manner, and also cracks at the 
butts of the strakes. After all of the 
cracks were treated I gave the boat two 
good coats of paint over all, and the 
result was a comparatively smooth sur- 
face, and one that was absolutely water- 
tight." The veteran very truly adds 
that an old boat repaired in this way 
will not stand any rough usage, and the 
patches are not proof against being 
dragged over rocks, or even a sand- 
beach ; but by a little labor a boat that 
is practically worthless may be so made 
serviceable for an indefinite time. 

By either of the methods mentioned 
above a lapstreak boat may be made 
tight as a bottle. A carvel-built craft — 
that is, one with the planks flush, edge 
and edge, and the seams between 
calked and payed — may generally be 
made tight by recalking her with threads 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT, 95 

of cotton prepared for that purpose and 
sold by ship-chandlers, driving the cot- 
ton well home with iron and mallet, and 
afterward puttying- up the seams. Care 
should be taken, however, not to put 
the cotton in too tight, or drive it right 
through the seam. Serious damage has 
often been done to a boat in the way 
of increasing her leakiness by too hard 
calking. Or the boat's hull may be 
completely covered with light duck 
nailed on with copper tacks, and after- 
ward well painted. This, however, is 
rather difficult for a greenhorn to accom- 
plish so as to make a neat fit of it ; but* 
I have seen several boats repaired and 
renovated in this manner by young men 
gifted with ingenuity, and a great deal 
of patience. I may say that the result, 
if the work is well done, is worth the 
pains thereon expended. 

Rowboats, sailboats, and launches 
propelled by any kind of power may 
have their hulls treated after one of- 
these fashions, with quite satisfactory 
results. 

If the owner does not think he is 
sufficiently handy to undertake the stop- 
ping of leaks he can, at any rate, paint 
and varnish his craft. To paint a boat 
outside or inside a perfect^ smooth 
surface is necessary, and to obtain this 
all rough spots should be smoothed with 
pumice-stone and sand-paper. Enamel 
paint should be used above the water- 
line, and the bottom may be painted 
with any one of the excellent composi- 
tions now in the market, which prevent 



96 BOAT SAILING, 

grass and barnacles from flourishing too 
luxuriantly on the underbodies of boats. 

The interior of the boat, after being 
thoroughly washed and scrubbed, should 
ulso have a coat or even two coats of 
enamel paint, as this composition is 
lasting and wears three times as long 
as the ordinary preparation of white 
lead, oil, turpentine, and pigment. One 
thing, however, is worth remembering. 
Never use washing soda or boiling 
water to clean wood covered with enamel 
paint. Rub it with a sponge or flannel 
cloth dipped in lukewarm water and a 
•little soap. For protecting and beauti- 
fying natural wood above deck or below, 
use a good brand of spar varnish. This 
will resist the damp, salt air of the 
ocean, or the more penetrating moisture 
of fresh-water lakes and rivers, far 
better than the higher grade of varnish 
used for the indoor decoration of dwell- 
ing houses, which, when it gets damp, 
acquires a plum-like bloom on its surface 
by no means beautiful. 

Mr. W. Baden - Powell, than whom 
there is no better authority, says very - 
truly, that there is no more dangerous 
time in their lives for the spars of 
canoes than when stowed away in a 
boat-house roof for the damp winter's 
rest. Bamboo spars are more liable to 
suffer than pine, or solid spruce, but 
each and all are in danger of splitting 
or kinking, especially so in the case of 
built spars, if glued up, instead of screw- 
bnilt. With such convenient lengths as 
are found in canoe spars, there is no 



O VERHA ULING THE YA CHT, 97 

excuse for leaving them in damp boat- 
houses, as they can be stacked in a room 
corner, on end, and the sails and rig-ging 
in drawers or boxes. In this way each 
item of rigging can be overhauled, 
mended, improved, and set in order for 
the coming year, just as convenient 
spare time offers. 

About the middle of March in these 
latitudes we generally are blessed with 
ideal sailing breezes, a trifle blustering 
and boisterous, perhaps, when the 
merry music of the stiff nor' wester 
pipes through the rigging, but never- 
theless vastly enjoyable to the ardent 
amateur, who grasps the tiller of his 
stanch shippie and fearlessly luffs up 
to the strident puffs, knowing that 
he has a stout hull beneath him, 
and that sails and gear are of trusty 
strength. 

It is all very well for the steam- 
yachtsmen and such-like marine Syba- 
rites to wait for the hot days of July to 
arrive before ordering their floating 
palaces to go into commission, but he 
w^ho depends upon sails can ill afford to 
allow all the glorious winds of the fresh 
and fragrant springtime to blow them- 
selves to waste in such reckless, feck- 
less fashion. There may be a chilly 
sting or bite in the spray that breaks on 
the weather bow in a silver shower and 
smites the helmsman mercilessly in the 
face, but there is invigorating ozone in 
wind and w^ater, and a glow of triumph 
after a successful battle with breeze 
and billow. 




IN DRY DOCK. 




Photo by Dr. Titus. 

HAULED OUT FOR PAINTING, 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 99 

It is prudent, too, to fit out early and 
lay up late, for life, alas ! is brief, and it 
behooves us, my l3oating brethren, to 
enjoy as many brave sailing days as 
possible ere we make our final voyage 
across the Styx, with grim Charon, the 
ferryman, taking his perennial trick at 
the tiller, while his pets, the frogs, 
plash and play and croak in his muddy 
wake. 

If the yacht is a small one — a knock- 
about or a 30-footer — and she has win- 
tered afloat, the first thing is to haul 
her out and prepare to clean her hull of 
barnacles and grass, of which a goodly 
crop is sure to have grown on her below 
the water-line. Start in with scrubbing 
brushes, sand and canvas and use plenty 
of elbow grease until she is thoroughly 
cleaned and all rough places smoothed 
with pumice stone. Use plenty of fresh 
water, with a flannel cloth as a final 
application to her hull. Then leave her 
until she is thoroughly dry. Carefully 
examine her seams for leaks, calking 
where necessary. 

When your boat is out of water open 
her wide to the fresh air. Rig up a 
windsail, and let the healthful breezes 
circulate through her interior. If she 
has hatches or skylights, lift them off; 
if portholes, unscrew them and give the 
wind a chance to blow all close impuri- 
ties away. Rig the pump and relieve 
her of all malodorous bilge water, the 
most nauseating and offensive evil that 
is met with by mariners. Take up the 
cabin flooring. If the ballast consists of 



LofC. 



100 BOAT SAILING, 

pig iron, rout it out, clean off the rust, 
and before replacing give it a good coat 
of coal tar, applied hot. Clean the 
limbers and flush them with plenty of 
water, using a bristly broom to remove 
the dirt. Splash the water about lavishly, 
and then pump it out dry. If there 
happens to be a cooking stove below, 
as there generally is in a vessel of any 
size, light a roaring fire and do your 
best to kill all fungoid germs or spores 
that may have gathered in damp places 
during the winter. Examine the ceil- 
ing for leaks. 

Should, through imprudent oversight, 
any bedding, matting, carpet, or cloth- 
ing, have been left in the boat since last 
season, take them out and have them 
cleansed and dried. If mold and mil- 
dew have attacked tb^m, destroy with- 
out compunction, and resolve to take 
better care next time. 

After thoroughly cleansing the craft 
inside from the eyes of her to right aft 
with soap and hot water, you can paint 
her cabin, if you deem she needs it, 
using enamel paint if you are willing 
to go to a little extra expense, or, at any 
rate, if not, using a generous quantity 
of spar varnish with the oil and dryers 
you mix your white lead with. This 
dries good and hard and is easily 
cleansed with warm water, soap and a 
sponge, and is far more durable and 
satisfactory than paint mixed in the 
ordinary manner. Two coats should be 
given. 

The next process is to clean the de-ck 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 101 

of the coat of varnish with which it was 
doubtless covered when the yacht was 
prepared for the winter. To accomplish 
this in the most efficacious manner, pro- 
cure from a ship chandler a sufficient 
quantity of one of the many prepara- 
tions of caustic soda, with which the 
market is well equipped. Dissolve it in 
an iron bucket in hot water, mixing it 
strong enough to act as a powerful de- 
tergent. These preparations vary m 
power, so it will be well to experiment 
on a section of the deck with a sample 
and then add more soda or more water 
as required. 

After sundown apply plentifully to 
the deck with a mop, rubbing the mix- 
ture well into the planks. Next morning 
before sunrise arm yourself with a good 
hard deck-scrubber, and set to work in 
earnest, using plenty of hot water and 
scrubbing the deck planks (fore and 
aft, mind you, always, and never ath wart- 
ship) until every particle of the old 
varnish and every speck and stain is re- 
moved. If the detergent is allowed to 
remain on the deck while the sun is 
shining, it is bound to eat into the planks 
and burn them. 

The next operation is the painting of 
the boat inside and out. There are 
many excellent compositions for coat- 
ing the hull below the water-line, but if 
you do not care to experiment with 
them, use the recipe given in the chap- 
ter on " Useful Hints and Recipes." 
Choose a clear, dry day and apply the 
paint. For above the water-line use 



103 BOAT SAILING. 

pure white lead of the best quality 
reduced to the proper consistency with 
equal parts of raw and boiled linseed 
oil and copal varnish. Add a dash of 
dryers and a few drops of blue paint, 
strain and apply. 

Personally, I prefer to varnish the 
deck of a small craft, though I am quite 
willing to acknowledge the superior 
beauty of a spotless deck white as a 
hound's tooth. The friends of a yachts- 
man often wear boots with ugly nails in 
them, both on soles and heels, and these 
are apt to play havoc with the spick and 
span appearance of a deck innocent of 
varnish. After cleaning the decks thor- 
oughly let them dry well. Wait for a 
sunn}^ morning and a northwesterly 
wind, when the air is comparatively free 
from moisture. Get your can of spar 
varnish out, and after sweeping the 
decks and dusting them thoroughly with 
a feather-duster, apply with a regular 
varnish brush of convenient size. It is 
advisable to pour out the varnish into a 
shallow jar, a marmalade pot for in- 
stance, in small quantities as required, 
as varnish loses its virtue rapidly b}^ ex- 
posure to sun and air. It is expedient, 
therefore, that the varnish can, or bottle, 
should never be left uncorked. The 
varnishing process should not be under- 
taken until the last thing, after the boat 
has been cleaned and painted inside and 
out, spars and blocks scraped and pol- 
ished, standing rigging set up, running 
rigging rove and sails bent. Two thin 
coats of varnish will be ample for the 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 108; 

decks and spars, as well as all the hard- 
wood fittings and trimmings of the yacht 
inside and out. 

Should the varnish be too thick to 
flow freely from the brush, don't thin it 
with oil or spirits of turpentine unless 
you wish to dim its luster and deprive 
it of much of its preservative quality. 
Simply place the varnish can in a bucket 
of hot water, and let it remain there 
until it gets warm, when you will ex- 
perience no difficulty in applying it to 
advantage. Another hint worth taking 
is never to buy cheap and inferior var- 
nish. The best is none too good. 

These suggestions may appear super- 
fluous to a professional yachtsman, who, 
if he happens to read this yarn, might 
feel teiTLpted to observe : ^^ Why, every 
darned chump knows that ! " As a mat- 
ter of fact, amateurs as a rule are not 
familiar with these little *^ wrinkles,*' 
which are in many cases tricks of the 
trade. This yarn is spun for amateurs 
only, and not for the edification or instruc- 
tion of veteran professionals. About half 
a century ago, when I first became a boat 
owner, I should have been delighted to 
get the fruits of a practical man's *ripe 
experience 

Fashionable craft with spoon bows 
and long overhangs forward have abol- 
ished the long bowsprits and simplified 
the head gear. The short bowsprit is 
secured with a §teel bobstay extending 
from the stem to the cranze iron on the 
bowsprit, the bobstay being set up taut 
with a turnbuckle of galvanized iron. 



104 BOAT SAILING. 

The bowsprit shrouds are of steel wire 
also set up by turnbuckles. 

The polemast has also done away with 
all the topmast gear, the mast being se- 
cured by a f orestay which sets up to the 
stem head and by one or sometimes two 
shrouds on each side set up by turn- 
buckles. The days of deadeyes and 
lanyards and of reefing bowsprits are 
departed. A sailor to be quite down-to- 
date should combine with his nautical 
knowledge some of the art of the 
blacksmith. Strength and lightness and 
handiness are the watchwordsof to-day, 
and with modern methods the gear of a 
small craft is so simple that it takes lit- 
tle time to rig her. 

I suppose I may take it for granted 
that all the running rigging was neatly 
coiled up and labeled and stored ashore 
when you went out of commission last 
fall. I know many smart young yachts- 
men who while away many a long win- 
ter evening with pleasure and profit 
, overhauling sheets and halyards, strop- 
ping blocks, varnishing them, splicing, 
serving and generally repairing all of 
the running gear that needs attention, 
making manropes, scraping and polish- 
ing the gangway ladder, the tiller, etc., 
and in other ways preparing for their 
summer's amusement. The study of 
navigation, the rule of the road at sea, 
the coast pilot, the learning of marlin- 
spike seamanship and a rudimentary 
knowledge of the use of the palm and 
needle, so that if a sail should need 
some simple repairs they ma}^ be made 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 105 

without loss of time and without seek- 
ing aid from a sailmaker — all these the 
amateur will find useful. It is aston- 
ishing how much one can learn in one 
winter if he devotes only an hour a night 
to the acquirement of nautical lore. 

But supposing that his running gear 
has not been touched since it was un- 
rove, it will take only a short time to 
get it in tip-top order, and the work may 
be done in the evening when it is too 
dark to potter about the yacht. 

While you are about it you may as 
well make a thorough job of this fitting 
out. Shin up the mast and make a tail- 
block fast to the masthead as high as 
possible, reeving a gantline through it 
so that you may sit in a boatswain's 
chair or in a bowline while you survey 
the stick. If the collars of the shrouds 
or forestay show any sign of chafe, they 
must come down and be served over 
again with spun yarn or covered with 
canvas sewn on w^ith a palm and needle, 
using plenty of lead colored paint in the 
process to prevent rust. Examine the 
masthead carefull}^ for weak parts, which 
generally are to be found in the wake 
of the rigging. If rot and signs of 
serious strains are met with, it is evident 
that a new mast is needed. Longitudi- 
nal cracks may be disregarded unless 
they are glaringly apparent, but trans- 
verse cracks should be viewed with 
suspicion. 

If, after close inspection, you conclude 
that the mast is good enough to stand, 
you may as well begin to scrape it, 



106 BOAT SAILING, 

engaging your chum to lower you down 
by your gantline. After scraping, use 
sandpaper until it is polished smooth." 
Then give it a couple of coats of spar 
varnish„ If the boat has a bowsprit, 
treat it in the same way. If she carries 
a topmast, scrape and varnish it and the 
boom, gaff, spinnaker- boom, boathook 
and the oars of your dinghy as well as 
all blocks ashore, wherever convenient. 

Next set up your rigging good and 
taut, taking care to stay the mast per- 
fectly plumb— no rake aft or forward. 
If you carry a topmast, send it up and 
stay it in the usual way. Get your boom 
in position by means of the gooseneck 
and the crotch; reeve your topping-lift 
and hook it on to its place at the end of 
the boom. Get the gaff in place, hook 
on the throat and peak halyards, and 
there you aa^e all ready to bend sails. 

It is imperative that your vessel, 
whether she be a cruiser pure and 
simple or a racer, should have a well, 
cut suit of sails. If it is your intention 
to treat her to the luxury of a brand 
new suit, I hope that you placed your 
order with a responsible sailmaker 
weeks ago. The winter is the correct 
time to have your sails made, when the 
knights of the palm and needle are not 
so apt to be rushed. 

Yacht owners have the habit of pro- 
crastinating where sails are concerned, 
and postpone their orders for new can- 
vas to the very last moment. This 
causes such a hurry in the lott that large 
orders are apt to receive the first and 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 107 

best attention of the sailmaker, while 
the owner of a moderate-sized vessel 
has to wait the foreman's convenience; 
whereas, if an order is placed before, 
say, Christmas, one of the firm is as 
likely as not to give the matter his per- 
sonal attention, measure your craft 
himself, and let the cut and the sit of 
the sails have the benefit of his own 
supervision. It is also a fact that the 
sailmaking" firms make it a point to 
keep their best men at work all the year 
round, while the mere ordinary work- 
men are "laid off" when the season 
closes. The consequence is that the 
yachtsman who orders his sails in good 
time has the advantage of the most 
skillful craftsmen in the market, and he 
is likely, too, to have better prices 
quoted him than in the rush of the 
season, when all hands are hard at it. 
Therefore, my advice is to take early 
action and win the best results at the 
most favorable figure. 

It was always my custom, before un- 
bending my yacht's sails preparatory to 
going out of commission, to summon 
my sailmaker aboard and take him for 
a short trip, pointing out what I con- 
sidered to be the defects in the muslin 
and listening to his suggestions for their 
remedy. He would make notes in his 
memorandum-book and inscribe certain 
hieroglyphic marks on the sails them- 
selves. When the canvas was unbent 
he would send for it, make the repairs 
and alterations at his leisure and store 
the sails for me until the spring, when 



108 BOAT SAILING. 

I would find them in perfect condition 
for setting. All this was done for mod- 
erate compensation, considering" the 
excellence of the workmanship. 

The importance of a well-cut and 
well-sitting suit of sails cannot be over- 
estimated. No matter how well the 
naval architect may have executed his 
work in the design of a vessel's hull, if 
the sailmaker has failed in his task, suc- 
cess in racing is an impossibility. You 
might just as well expect a fast homing 
pigeon to attain his norma], speed with 
a crippled wing as a yacht to win a cup 
hampered by sails of poor material and 
faulty construction. 

If low-grade material is used, despite 
the best efforts of the scientific sail- 
maker, the sails are sure to be unsatis- 
factory. The climate on the Atlantic 
coast is peculiarly trying even to the 
finest grades^f cotton duck, which is 
assuredly the best fabric known that can 
be used for the purpose of the sail- 
maker. The hot and arid westerly 
winds dry out the sails so that they be- 
come soft and open, causing them to 
stretch abnormally and to get full of 
what are technically termed *^hard 
places.*' The wind shifts to the east- 
ward, a damp, moist quarter, and the re- 
sult is a severe shrmking, which, in 
conjunction with the previous violent 
stretching, is enough to play havoc with 
the best and closest woven material, no 
matter how scientifically designed and 
constructed. You can imagine how a 
suit of sails of cheap and common duck, 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 109 

botched by some ordinary tentmaker, 
would be likely to behave under such 
circumstances. 

My advice is to order your sails of 
a reputable firm of experience, have 
them made of the best material, and 
take care that they are bent by a raan of 
judgment and skill and not by some 
habitud of a hay-mow or a pig-drover 
fresh from the farm. I have known a 
suit of sails that cost several hundred 
dollars irretrievably ruined by being 
overstretched in the first instance by a 
sailing-master ignorant of the first prin- 
ciples of his calling. 

A well-known sailmaker, who has 
made sails for some of the crack racing 
yachts of America, gives the following 
admirable instructions for setting the 
sails of a 40-foot single-sticker : Cast 
off the tyers from the mainsail ; hook 
on the peak halyards ; see that the gaff 
goes up between the topping-lifts as 
you hoist up on the throat and peak hal- 
yards ; hoist up on the throat until the 
luff-rope is straight ; if the sail has a 
slide on the boom, haul out on it till the 
canvas is just straight and smooth on 
the foot ; too hard a pull will throw a 
heavy strain on the diagonal, from the 
end of the boom to the jaws of the gaff, 
giving a bad after leech when the peak 
is swayed up ; next sway up the luff 
pretty taut ; it is not necessary to top 
the boom up to too great an angle out 
of the crotch ; man the peak halyards 
and hoist on them until the after leech 
is so lifted that it spreads and stretches 



no BOAT SAILING, 

every square inch of the after angle of 
the sail ; as soon as the peak begins to 
lift the outer end of the boom, the main- 
sheet should be made fast (unless the 
boom extends so far over the taffrail 
that it would bring an undue leverage 
on the boom and spring it to breaking); 
now sweat up the peak halyards until 
the stretch is entirely taken out of the 
halyard canvas ; if the peak is hoisted 
beyond its proper angle, it puts an undue 
strain on the diagonal, from the end of 
the gaff to the center of effort of the 
sail, the consequence being a nasty gut- 
ter just inside the leech, which gives 
rise to the groundless complaint that 
there is a tight cloth inside the after 
leech. It should be remembered that 
the trouble lies in stretching the head 
and foot of the sail too taut, and over- 
setting the ^eaki 

These instructions are so clear as to 
be intelligible to the merest tyro, and 
should be followed out on all occasions. 
A good mainsail costs a large sum, and 
there is no reason why it should be 
ruined by neglect of proper precau- 
tions. 

In setting a thimble-headed top- 
sail hoist away on the halyards, then 
bowse the tack down with a purchase, 
then sheet it out to the gaff end so that 
there shall be an exact and even strain 
on both foot and leech. 

The proper angle of the jib-sheet de- 
pends entirely on the position its clew 
occupies in relation to the stay. It 
should always hold the foot of the sail 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT, 111 

a little more than it does the after leech, 
so as to allow the proper flow, which is 
so effective as well as so beautiful. 

If you determine that the craft's old 
suit is good enough for another year, 
overhaul it for holes. Perhaps the sails 
have been stowed away where rats or 
mice have had free access to them. If 
so, they will need repairs. If they were 
rolled up damp, or stored in a damp 
place, they will probably be badly mil- 
dewed. The unsightly stains of mildew 
can be partially removed by scrubbing 
the sail on both sides with fresh water 
and soap, and afterward rubbing whit- 
ing over it and leaving it to dry and 
bleach in the sun. 

If the sails are discolored, they may 
be improved by laying them on a plot 
of clean sand, scrubbing them on both 
sides with sea- water and salt- water soap, 
and afterward sprinkling them with 
salt-water in which whiting is dissolved 
until it looks like milk. Let them bleach 
in the sun until one side is quite dry, 
and then turn them over. 

To prevent mildew from spoiling the 
sails, keep them dry and well ventilated. 
If a sail is furled when damp, the inner 
folds will mildew. Always roll up a wet 
sail loosely, and shake it out and dry it 
the first chance you get ; in any case 
open it out and give it air, even if rain 
continues to fall. Remember that new 
sails will mildew very quickly because 
of the " dressing ** in the duck, which 
sets up a fungoid growth or fermenta- 
tion. For these reasons don't depend 



112 BOAT SAILING. 

too much on your watertight sail-cov- 
ers, but g-ive your canvas frequent air 
and sun baths if you wish your '* white 
wings " to remain tilings of beauty. 

The same attention to the sails to 
avoid mildew should be given to the hull 
to prevent dry rot, which is quite as fre- 
quently caused by the lack of ventila- 
tion as by the use of unseasoned timber 
in the construction of a vessel. 

The principal labor of lifting out has 
been described, but the cabin is yet to 
be fixed up for occupation, and stores 
taken aboard for the opening cruise. It 
is well to have a list prepared of the 
actual necessities in the way of sup- 
plies that must not be left ashore when 
you get under way. Here are a few 
things that cannot be dispensed with : 
Anchor and chain, small kedge anchor, 
tow-rope, life-buoy, side-lights, anchor 
light, oil and-wreks, bell, foghorn, com- 
pass with binnacle, hand lead, chart of 
waters you intend to navigate, dinghy, 
either on board or towing astern, prop- 
erly fitted with oars, boathook, row- 
locks and plug, all secured by lashings. 
A good supply of fresh water should be 
taken along, and a stock of provisions 
suitable to the tastes of the skipper and. 
his guests. An awning for the cockpit 
may prove a great comfort both in hot 
and rainy weather, when becalmed or at 
anchor. 

I recommend that a storm trysail, a 
storm jib and a drogue, or sea-anchor, 
form part of the yacht's equipment, and 
that they be stowed away in some place 



OVERHAULING THE YACHT. 118 

convenient for instant use. Perhaps 
they may never be needed, but it is 
often the unforeseen that happens, and 
in this world of uncertainty it is best to 
be always ready for an emergency. 

Thus prepared the yachtsman may 
safely venture for a cruise, selecting 
those waters with which he is most fa- 
miliar or most anxious to explore. He 
will find April an ideal month for yacht- 
ing, and if he puts in his time to the best 
advantage he will have his craft " tuned 
up " to racing pitch, his amateur crew so 
admirably drilled and disciplined, and his 
sails and gear in such capital shape that, 
if there is really any speed in the craft 
at all, prizes should be the inevitable 
reward of his skill and his enterprise. 




5^^ 




0^ 

o 

Q 
< 

g 

3 
< 



VIIl. 
FITTING OUT FOR A CRUISE. 

IN equipping- a boat for a cruise, 
even in summer, it is always well 
to remember that gales of wind 
are not unusual even in July. 
I once knew it to blow with spiteful 
ferocity in the last week of that 
month, and to disperse the Atlantic 
Yacht Club squadron and drive them to 
seek shelter in various harbors of Long 
Island Sound, between Black Rock and 
New Haven. Out of the whole fleet 
only two yachts reached their destina- 
tion. New London. One was the sloop 
Athlon^ Vice-Commodore E. B. Havens, 
on board of which I was a guest, and 
the forty-footer Cliispa. It was quite 
an exciting and hard thrash to wind- 
ward in the teeth of an easterly gale, 
but we got there. Had not the two 
yachts mentioned been properly pre- 
pared for such an exigency, they also 
would have been forced to bear up and 
run for some land-locked haven in which 
to linger until the wind had blown itself 
out. Although these summer gales 
generally exhaust themselves in twenty- 
four hours, they are often quite savage 
while they last, and the sensible yachts- 
man will always be prepared to meet 
them. His standing and running rig- 



116 BOAT SAILING. 

ging- will be in first-class condition; 
whatever storm canvas he carries will 
be ready for bending at a moment's 
notice; his sea anchor or drogue will 
also be at hand for letting go should 
the necessity arise. 

Of course I need not impress upon the 
amateur boat sailer that a compass 
should be taken along on a cruise. But 
I have mingled a good deal with the 
owners of small craft, and have met 
many who either did not carry one at 
all or, if it was aboard, as likely as not 
stowed it away in the same locker with 
a hatchet, marlinespike and other tools 
not likely to improve it. A compass 
should always form part of a boat's out- 
fit. A fog often makes its appearance 
when a party of pleasure seekers are 
enjoying a sail on sound or bay, and 
when it shuts down on you thick as a 
hedge I will defy you not to lose your 
bearings, and consequently your way. 
In times such as these a compass will 
prove a source of great comfort, and in- 
stead of being compelled to anchor and 
await clear weather you can steer for 
your destination under shortened sail. 
In such cases never fail to blow the 
foghorn, which should be of regulation 
size and not a penny squeaking trumpet 
such as a six-year old schoolboy affects. 
The ordinary boat's compass wall answer 
admirably if only short sails are con- 
templated, but on a long cruise where a 
heavy sea is not unlikely to be encoun- 
tered, a fluid compass should be carried. 
The motion of a small craft in rough 



FITTING OUT FOR A CRUISE. 117 

water causes the common compass card 
to jump about so much as to be perfectly 
useless to steer by, while a fluid com- 
pass remains steady and reliable under 
all circumstances and conditions. There 
are several fluid compasses in the mar- 
ket at a reasonable price, which can be 
depended upon in an emergency. The 
fluid on which the needle floats is gen- 
erally alcohol, to guard against freezing, 
and is simply a development of a primi- 
tive compass used by the daring seamen 
of the twelfth century. This old-fash- 
ioned instrument consisted of an iron 
needle, one end of which was stuck into 
a piece of cork. The other end was 
well rubbed with a loadstone, and when 
the cork was floated in an earthenware 
bowl of water the end so treated pointed 
to the magnetic North. In spite of the 
meager knowledge of those early navi- 
gators concerning variation and devia- 
tion, they generally managed to make a 
sufficiently good land-fall. It may not 
be generally known that a sewing needle 
rubbed on a magnet and carefully 
dropped into a vessel of water will float 
and point to the North. 

The rule of the road at sea requires 
vessels in a fog to go at a moderate 
speed and to blow the foghorn at inter- 
vals of not less than two minutes ; when 
on the starboard tack one blast, when 
on the port tack two blasts in succession, 
and when with the wind abaft the beam 
three blasts in succession. It also has 
certain imperative rules for a vessel at 
anchor in a fog. 



118 BOAT SAILING, 

The law provides that a vessel not 
tinder way in a fog shall at intervals of 
not more than two minutes ring a bell. 
It will be seen therefore that a bell is 
quite as necessary as a foghorn. If a 
boat at anchor or under way in thick 
weather, with neither bell nor foghorn 
in use as provided by the law, should be 
run into and damaged or sunk by any 
other vessel, her owner would have no 
redress. On the contrary, if he escaped 
with his life he could be forced to pay 
for any damage, however trifling, the 
vessel colliding with him sustained in 
the act. If he was drowned his estate 
would be liable. 

A bell should form part of the careful 
boatowner's outfit. But if you have 
neglected providing one, don't despair. 
Get out a frying pan or a tin kettle and 
kick up as much racket as you can by 
beating one or both with a hammer or a 
marlinespike. A fishhorn has many times 
answered the purpose of a foghorn, 
but I would not recommend it as a 
steady substitute. All I wish to convey 
is that a frying pan and a fishhorn are 
better than nothing. 

The variety of anchor to be carried 
depends very much upon choice. There 
are several kinds for sale quite suitable 
for small cruisers, all of which have 
good points to recommend them. 

The law is imperative as regards the 
carrying of lights by night when at 
anchor or under way. If your craft is 
very small, there is a light in the market 
fitted with green and red slides to be 




PLEASANT CAT-BOAT SAILING. 



120 BOAT SAILING. 

shown when required, which may suit 
your purpose. But if your craft has any 
pretensions to size provide yourself with 
a pair of brass side lights and also a 
good brass anchor light. Avoid those 
flimsy articles with which the market 
is flooded. The best are cheapest in 
the end. See that all the lamps you 
have aboard take the same sized wick. 
Buy the brand of oil known as mineral 
sperm, which is used by all first-class 
steamship lines. Its quality has borne 
the test of years and has never been 
found wanting. For lamp cleaning take 
a plentiful supply of cotton waste and 
old newspapers, the last named for pol- 
ishing the glass. A hand lead and line 
must not be forgotten, while an aneroid 
barometer, a thermometer and a marine 
clock will be both useful and ornament- 
al. Do not forget a canvas bucket and 
a deck scrubber. 

A few tools will be found necessary. 
A hatchet, hammer, chisel, file, jack- 
knife, gimlet, screw driver, small cross- 
cut saw and an assortment of screws 
and nails will be about all that is essen- 
tial in this direction. A few yards of 
duck, palm and needles and sewing 
twine, a ball of marline, one of spun 
yarn and a marlinespike may be stowed 
away snugly, and their possession 
in case of need is often a great boon. 
The adventurous voyager must use his 
own discretion as , to his wardrobe. 
The marine " dude " is in evidence in 
our midst, and who am I that I should 
condemm a man for trying to look his 



FITTING OUT FOR A CRUISE. 121 

prettiest, both ashore and afloat ? Don't 
forget to buy a good suit of oilers, and 
don't fail to slip them on when it rains. 
When you come to get to my age, and 
feel the rheumatism in your old bones, 
you will wish you had followed my 
advice. 

Tastes differ so widely that it is hard 
to advise a man as to his cuisine when 
afloat. What would suit an old sea dog 
"right down to the ground" might not 
be palatable to the nautical epicure with 
a taste for humming-bird's livers on 
toast, or other such dainty kickshaws. 
Personally, I can enjoy a good square 
meal of sardines and hardtack, wash it 
down with a cup of coffee and wind up 
with a pipe of plug tobacco, and con- 
clude that I have feasted like a prince. 
This is probably due to my forecastle 
training. Others are more fastidious. 
Luckily this is the age of canned viands, 
and almost every delicacy under the sun 
is put up in convenient form, requiring 
only a can-opener to extract the hidden 
sweetness. 

The culinary difficulty that confronts 
the sailer of a small craft is the cooking 
stove. Like the servant girl problem, it 
is still unsolved. Many great geniuses 
have wasted the midnight oil and have 
nearly exhausted the gray matter of 
their brains in trying to invent a stove 
that shall be suitable for a little cockle- 
shell of a boat with a penchant for 
dancing over the waves in lively style. 
Some have tried cast-iron stoves with a 
smokestack, and coal for fuel, and have 



122 BOAT SAILING. 

cursed their folly ever after. Gasoline 
stoves, so long as they don't explode and 
set fire to the boat, are convenient and 
cleanly. Various kinds of alcohol lamps, 
hung on gimbals to accommodate them- 
selves to the perpetual motion of a 
.vessel, are in use and are thoroughly 
adapted for making a pot of coffee, tea 
or chocolate, and for heating a can of 
soup or preserved meat. A hungry 
boatman should not ask for more luxuri- 
ous fare. There are preparations of 
coffee and milk and cocoa and milk in 
cans, which can be got ready in a hurry 
and with the least possible trouble. 
They are also nice, and I do not hesi- 
tate to stamp them with the seal of my 
approval. By looking over the cata- 
logue of the canned goods of any first- 
class grocer, you will find a quantity of 
varieties to select from, all of excellent 
quality and moderate in price. In order 
to provide against waste it would be 
advisable if cruising alone to buy the 
smallest packages in which the viands 
are put up. Hardtack should be kept in 
airtight tin boxes to guard against damp. 
Matches can be stowed in a glass fruit j ar, 
and in this snug receptacle defy salt spray 
and sea air which threaten the integ- 
rity of brimstone and phosphorus. The 
man who indulges in tobacco (and what 
lover of the sea does not ?) will find it 
well to pack a supply of wind matches in 
a glass jar, so that he can keep his match 
safe replenished and be able to light his 
pipe or cigar no matter how the breeze 
may blow. I have found tobacco a 



FITTING OUT FOR A CRUISE. 12B 

mighty source of comfort under adverse 
mental and physical conditions, and its 
soothing influence has made many a 
trick at the tiller seem less weary. 

Cooking in a small craft tossed like a 
cork on the waves is a confounded 
nuisance, but a hot meal tastes well 
after you have been stuck at the tiller 
for four or five hours in squally weather. 
I remember an incident that occurred 
on board my cutter, the Heather Bell^ 
when ingenuity provided a hot break- 
fast which otherwise we should not 
have enjoyed. We were caught in a 
southerly gale in the English Channel, 
and under trysail and spitfire jib we 
were doing our best to claw off a lee 
shore. I had been at the tiller nearly 
all night, and when day broke I was 
thoroughly exhausted. The little cutter 
— she was only fifteen tons — was pitch- 
ing and 'scending at such a lively rate 
that lighting a fire in the stove was out 
of the question. My chum, however, 
managed to make some coffee with the 
aid of a spirit lamp, and also to cook a 
couple of plump Yarmouth bloaters. 
This last-named feat was difficult, but 
my chum was a man of genius. An in- 
spiration came to him. He split the 
bloaters down the backs, put them 
in an extra deep frying pan, such as 
should always be used at sea, deluged 
them with Scotch whiskey, old and 
smoky, and set fire to it. I can see him 
now, hanging on to the cabin ladder 
with one hand and balancing the frying 
pan in the other, so that the blazing 



124 BOAT SAILING. 

whiskey should not overflow and set fire 
to the cabin. Those bloaters were fine. 
They went right to the spot. It was 
rather an expensive mode of cooking, 
for the whiskey in question was choice, 
but we both agreed that the fishes were 
worthy of it. I suppose they would 
have tasted just as well if they had been 
cooked in alcohol, but that idea did not 
occur to my friend. A beefsteak pre- 
pared in the same way was delicious. 
We had it for dinner and soon after there 
came a shift of wind which enabled us 
to run for Newhaven and sleep com- 
fortably. 

You should take with you a box of 
seidlitz powders, a bottle of vaseline, 
court plaster, a box of your pet pills, a 
bottle of extract of witch hazel, a bottle 
of extract of ginger, a bottle of Sun 
cholera mixture, and a bottle of Hors- 
ford's acid phosphate. These should be 
stowed away in a medicine-chest, which, 
if you have any mechanical skill at all, 
you can, make yourself. If you are no 
hand at a saw or a chisel, a small medi- 
cine-chest, filled with all the requisites 
and adapted for use in a boat, can be 
obtained from any good drug-store at a 
reasonable figure. 

A locker for the storage of ice is in- 
dispensable for one's comfort when sail- 
ing in these latitudes in summer. The 
locker should be lined with zinc, and 
should be fitted with a brass tap to draw 
off the waste water. Wrap your ice up 
in paper first, and then in a piece of 
coarse flannel, and you will be surprised 



FITTING OUT FOR A CRUISF. 125 

at the length of time it will keep. A 
porous earthenware bottle should form 
part of your equipment. It can be sus- 
pended in a draught, and will supply 
you with a moderately cool drink when 
your ice is all used. 

Remember that sea air generates damp 
very quickly in a cabin. Bedding should 
be aired and sunned if possible every 
day, and the cabin should be well ven- 
tilated. Cleanliness and comfort go to- 
gether in a boat, and scrubbing-brush 
and swab should not be allowed to get 
dry-rot by disuse. Cultivate order and 
tidiness so far as the domestic economy 
of your yacht is concerned. Have a 
place for everything and everything in 
its place, or your little cabin will present 
a slovenly appearance instead of looking 
pretty and snug. 

If the interior of your cabin is painted 
white, use enamel paint, which dries 
hard and smooth, and can be easily 
cleaned by washing with warm (not 
hot) water, soap and sponge. 

Cocoa-nut matting is better than car- 
pet or oil-cloth as a covering for a small 
craft's cabin floor. It is difficult to dry 
carpet when it gets thoroughly drenched 
with salt water. Oil-cloth is comfortless 
and cold to bare feet, but cocoa-nut 
matting is open to neither of these ob- 
jections. It is easily washed and dries 
quickly. 

The cushions for the cabin may be 
stuffed with cork shavings or horse-hair 
and covered with india-rubber sheeting. 
These may again be covered with cor- 



726 BOAT SAILING, 

duroy or blue flannel, as the india-rub- 
ber sheeting is cold. Mattresses made 
of deers' hair are in the ^narket, and 
are quite comfortable. Being buoyant, 
they can be used as life-savers in an 
emergency. 

Cups, saucers, plates and dishes of 
enameled iron or agate ware are un- 
breakable and much superior to those 
of tin, which rust and are hard to keep 
clean. Crockery and glassware are eas- 
ily destroyed in a cruising craft, in spite 
of the ingenious racks and lockers in- 
vented to preserve them. 

Don't omit to include fishing tackle 
among your stores. There is lots of 
sport in catching blue-fish or mackerel 
when under way, and many a weary 
hour when your craft is becalmed may 
be beguiled with hook and line. Be- 
sides, a fish fresh from the water forms 
an agreeable and appetizing change 
from the monotony of canned goods. 
There is no necessity to purchase ex- 
pensive tackle for sea-fishing. All that 
is wanted is strong and serviceable gear. 
For blue-fishing provide yourself with 
a well -laid cotton line, which is not lia- 
ble to kink. The line should be seven- 
sixteenths of an inch in circumference 
for the big fish one catches in spring 
and fall, and the hooks should be strong. 
It is well to carry with you several vari- 
eties of squid. For smaller blue-fish 
a lighter, cotton-braided line is good. 
When I go blue-fishing I take rubber 
finger-stalls along to prevent my fingers 
being chafed by the line. My readers 



FITTING O UT FOR A CR UISE, 127 

should do the same. Horse-mackerel 
and Spanish mackerel are often taken 
with a blue-fish line. 

For navigating purposes all that is 
reallj^ necessary for a coasting voyage 
is a chart of the waters you propose to 
sail in, a pair of dividers and parallel 
rulers, and a book of sailing directions. 
A patent log may be added if so desired, 
and will add to the accuracy of j^our 
dead reckoning. 

Thus equipped, the navigator may 
boldly venture forth either by himself 
or with a congenial companion. If he 
does not enjoy every moment of his 
cruise, and gain health and strength 
from the tonic sea breezes, he can safely 
conclude that Nature never intended 
him for a sailor. In that case he should 
dispose of his craft at once and seek 
such consolation as agricultural pursuits 
afford. 




^- 



iX. 



-/np] 



BEATING TO WINDWARD, 

'HERE is an old nautical truism to 
the effect that a haystack will sail 
well to leeward, but that it takes a 
correctly- modeled vessel to beat 
to windward. It is easy to comprehend 
how a straw hat thrown into a pond on 

its northerly 
edge will, un- 
der the influ- 
ence of a brisk 
breeze from 
the north, 
make a fast 
passage to the 
southerly 
b ank . It is 
more difficult 
to understand 
how the same 
straw hat, if 
put into the 
water at the 
southerly end 
of the pond, 
might be so 
manoeuvred as 
to make a passage to the northern ex- 
tremity of the sheet of water, though 
the wind continued to pipe from the 
north. This was, no doubt, a tough nut 
for the early navigators to crack, and 
the problem may have taken centuries 
to solve. 




Diagram No. i. 
Sailing under Varying Condi- 
tions of Wind. 



BEATING TO WINDWARD. 129 

The paddle was naturally the first 
means of propelling a rude craft through 
the water, and the ingenious savage 
(probably an indolent rascal) who dis- 
covered that a bough of a tree, or the 
skin of a beast extended to a favoring 
breeze, would produce the same effect 
as constant and laborious plying of 
paddles, was presumably hailed as a 
benefactor by his tribe. But this de- 
vice, artful no doubt in its inception, 
was only of avail while the wind blew 
towards the quarter in which the desti- 
nation of the enterprising voyager lay. 
If the wind drew ahead, or dropped, the 
skin or leafy bough was no longer of 
use as a labor-saving contrivance, and 
the wearisome paddle was necessarily 
resumed. 

The primitive square sail of antiquity 
embodies the same principle as that 
governing the motion through the water 
of the modern full rigged ship, which is 
admirably adapted for efficient beating 
to windward, or sailing against the wind. 
Superiority in this branch of sailing is 
the crucial test of every vessel whose 
propelling power is derived from canvas, 
and the shipbuilders and sailmakers 
of all seafaring nations have vied with 
each other for centuries to secure the ' 
desired perfection. 

Beating to windward may be describ- 
ed as the method by which a vessel 
forces her way by a series of angles in 
the direction from which the wind is 
blowing. Some vessels will sail closer 
to the wind than others, That is to say, 



130 



BOAT SAILING, 



with their sails tujL they will head a 
point or more nearer to the direction 
from which the wind comes than vessels 
of different rig. 

Broadly speaking, an ordinary fore- 
and-aft rigged yacht with the wind due 
north, will head northwest on the star- 
board tack, and northeast on the port 




Diagram No. 2. 
Running: Before the Wind. 



tack. That is, she will head up within 
four points of the wind. Some will do 
better than this by a good half point. 
The famous old sloop Maria^ owned by 
Commodore J. C. Stevens, founder of 
the New York Yacht Club, is said to 
have sailed within three points and a 
half of the wind, and I am informed 



BEATING TO WINDWARD. 131 

that Constitution., in her races this year, 
achieved a similar remarkable feat. 

A square-rigg-er, because the sails 
cannot be trimmed to form so sharp an 
angle to the breeze as a fore-and-aft 
rigged vessel, rarely sails closer than 
six points of the wind. Consequently, 
she has to make more tacks and con- 
sume a longer time in accomplishing a 
similar distance in the teeth of the 
breeze than a vessel driven by fore-and- 




J/^2. 



Diagram No. 3, 
Gybing. 



aft canvas. It is possible to make my 
meaning clearer by means of simple 
diagrams, and to these I refer the reader. 
A vessel is said to be close-hauled 
when the sheets are trimmed flat aft 
and the boat is headed as near to the 
wind as the sails will permit without 
their luffs shaking. When a vessel is so 
trimmed, she is said to be sailing '' full 
and bye," which means as close to the 
wind as the craft will point with the 
sails bellying out and full of wind. If 



132 



BOAT SAILING. 



a vessel is sailed so close to the wind 
that the sails quiver, the pressure is 
diminished and speed is decreased. 
Thus the art of beating to windward 
successfully consists in keeping the boat's 
sails full, while her head should not be 




Diagram No. 4. 
Close Hauled on Port Tack. 

permitted to " fall off " for an instant. 
This requires a watchful eye and an 
artistic touch. To become an adept, one 
should have plenty of practice. 

A boat is on the starboard tack when 
the main boom is over the port quarter 
and the port jib sheet is hauled aft. The 



BEATING TO WINDWARD. 133 

wind is then on the starboard bow. The 
conditions are reversed when the craft 
goes on the port tack. In diagram No. i, 
four conditions of sailing are shown, 
the figures representing a boat sailing 
with the wind astern, on the quarter, 
abeam, and close hauled. It will be ob- 
served how the main boom is trimmed 
to meet the varied changes of wind or 
course. 




Diagram No. 5. 
Close Hauled on Starboard Tack. 

Diagram No. 2 shows a racing yacht 
running before the wind with all her 
balloons expanded to the breeze. The 
spinnaker set to starboard not only adds 
greatly to her speed, but it also makes 
the steering easier, as it counteracts the 
pressure of the huge mainsail and club 
topsail on the port side, thus causing a 
nicely-adjusted balance. The balloon 
jibtopsail catches every stray breath of 



134 



BOAT SAILING. 



air that is spilled out of the spinnaker, 
and it also has considerable possibilities 
as a steering sail, in addition to its 
splendid pulling power. For a vessel, 
however finely balanced and carefully 
steered, owing to various conditions of 
breeze and sea, has a tendency to yaw 
and fly up in the wind. Thus a strong 
puff or a heavy sea striking the boat may 
make her swerve from her course in an 
effort to broach to. Then the jibtopsail 
does good service as, when it gets full 
of wind, it pays the head of the boat off 
the wind, and materially assists the 
helmsman in steadying the vessel on her 
course. 

It may be remarked that steering a 
yacht under these conditions, in a strong 

and puffy 
breeze with a 
lumpy, follow- 
ing sea, calls 
for the b^st 
worlj of th€ 
ablest helms- 
man. A boat 
will generally 
develop an 
inclination to 
broach to, 
which means 
to fly up in the 
wind. Some- 
times, how- 
ever, the no- 
tion may strike 
her to run off 

Diagram No. 6. , i • i 

Dead Beat to Windward. the Wmcl SO 




BEATING rO WINDWARD, 135 

much as to bring the wind on the other 
quarter, causing her to gybe. This 
would mean disaster^ probably a broken 
boom and a topmast snapped off short 
like a pipe-stem, with other incidental 
perils. 

Diagram No. 3 shows the manoeuvre 
of gybing, which is to keep the 
vessel away from the wind until it comes 
astern, and then on the opposite quarter 
to which it has been blowing. Fig. i 
shows a boat sailing before the wind 
with the main boom over to starboard. 
Fig. 2 shows the operation of luffing to 
get in the main sheet. Fig. 3 shows the 
boom over on the port quarter, and the 
operation complete, except trimming 
sail for the course to be steered. 

It may be remarked that gybing a 
racing yacht ^^all standing '* in a strong 
wind requires consummate skill and 
care. A cool hand at the helm is the 
prime requisite, but smart handling of 
the main sheet is of scarcely less impor- 
tance. The topmast preventer back- 
stays should be attended to by live men. 
When a vessel is not racing, gybing in 
heavy weather may be accomplished 
without the slightest risk ; the topsail 
may be clewed up and the peak of the 
mainsail lowered, and with ordinary 
attention the manoeuvre is easily per- 
formed. 

Diagrams Nos. 4 and 5 show the same 

racing yacht close hauled on the port 

and starboard tack. The spinnaker and 

balloon jibtopsail are taken in. A small 

Lfjibtopsail takes the place of the flying 



136 BOA T SA I LING, 

kite. This sail, however, is only carried 
in light winds, as it has a tendency, 
when a breeze blows, to make a craft 
sag off to leeward. 

Diagram No. 6 shows a boat beating 
out of a bay with the wind dead in her 
teethj a regular **nose-ender " or "muz- 
zier.*' She starts out from her anchor- 
age on the port tack, stands in as close 
to the shore as is prudent, goes about 
on the starboard tack, stands out far 
enough to weather the point of land, 
then tacks again, and on the port tack 
fetches the open sea. 

Diagram No. 7 illustrates a contin- ♦ 
gency frequently met with in beating to 
windward, when a vessel can sail nearer 
her intended course on one tack than an- 
other. Thus suppose her course is East 
by South and the wind SE, she would 
head up East on one tack (the long leg) 
and South on the other (the short leg). 
^ Diagram No. 8 depicts the manoeuvre 
of tacking that is the method of " going 
into stays," or shifting from one tack to 
the other. Fig. i shows a boat steering 
" full and bye '* on the starboark tack. 
It becomes necessary to go about. 
** Helm's a-lee ! " cries the man at the 
tiller, at the same time easing the helm 
down to leeward and causing the boat's 
head to fly up in the wind. The jib 
sheet is let go at the cry " Helm's a-lee ! " 
decreasing the pressure forward and 
making the boat, if well balanced, spin 
roimd. A modern racer turns on her 
heel so smartly that the men have all 
they can do to trim the head sheets 



BEATING TO WINDWARD. 187 

down before she is full on the other 
tack. Some of the old style craft, how- 
even hang in the wind, and it some- 
times becomes necessary to pay her 
head off by trimming down on the port 
jib sheet and by shoving the main boom 
over on the starboard quarter (Fig. 3). 
Soon she fills on the port tack, and goes 
dancing merrily along, as shown in 

Fig. 4. 

In beating to windward in a strong 
breeze and a heavy sea leeway must be 
considered. 

Leeway may be defined as the angle 
between the line of the vessel's apparent 
course and the line she actually makes 
good through the water. In other and 
untechnical words, it is the drift that the 
ship makes sidew^ays through the water 
because of the force of the wind and the 
heave of the sea, both factors causing 
the craft to slide bodily off to leeward. 

This crab-like motion is due to a va- 
riety of causes, to the shape of the craft, 
to her trim, and to the amount of sail 
carried, and its quality and sit. Boats 
deficient in the element of lateral resist- 
ance, such as a shallow craft with the 
centerboard hoisted, will drift off to lee- 
ward at a surprising rate. A deep boat 
of good design and fair sail-carrying 
capacity will, on the other hand, if her 
canvas is well cut and skillfully trimmed, 
make little or no leeway. In fact, she 
may, under favorable circumstances, 
eat up into the wind and fetch as high 
as she points. 

Leeway is always a dead loss, and to 



138 



BOAT SAILING, 



counteract it is always the aim of the 
practical seaman and navigator. Cap- 
tain Lecky, in his admirable work, 
** Wrinkles in Practical Navigation," 
puts the case clearly, and his advice 
should be foUow^ed whenever feasible. 
He says : *' Suppose a vessel on a wind 
heading NW by N, under short canvas 
and looking up within three points of 
her port, which, accordingly, bears north; 
but, owing to its blowing hard, she is 
making 2^ points leeway. Clearly this 
vessel is only making good a NW by 
Wj^W course, which is 5^ points from 
the direction of port. Let her speed 
under these conditions be, say, four 
knots per hour. 
Now, if the yards 
are checked in a 
point or so, and 
the vessel be 
kept off NW by 
W, she will slip 
away much faster 
through the water, 
and probably will 
make not more 
than half a point 
leeway. This keeps 
the course made 
good exactly the 
same as before, 
with the advan- 
tage of increased 
speed. Therefore, 
if you can possibly 
^. ^, avoid it, do not al- 

Diagram No. 7. -, ' ^ ^ 

A Long Leg and a Short Leg. lOW yOUr VCSSCl tO 




BEATING TO WINDWARD, 139 



sag to leeward by jamming her up in 
the wind. Keep your wake right astern, 
unless it be found from the bearing of 
the port that the course made good is 
actually taking the vessel away from it, 
in which case it is obvious that the less 
the speed the better." 

This excellent counsel applies to every 
kind of sailing vessel, whether square- 
rigger or fore-and-after, whether used 
for business or pleasure. It is of no avail 
to pinch a boat for the purpose of keep- 
ing her bowsprit pointed for her destina- 
tion, when it is obvious that she will only 
fetch a point sev- 
eral miles to lee- 
ward. Keep the 
sails clean full and 
the boat will make 
better weather of 
it, as well as great- 
er speed. It may 
frequently be nec- 
essary to '' luff and 
shake it out of her" 
when struck by a 
hard squall, or, by 
the aid of a ** fish- 
erman's luff," to 
clear an object 
without tacking, 
but a good rule is 
to keep a sailing 
craft moving 
through the w^ater 
and not permit her 
to pitch and rear _. 

■J , .1 Diagram No. 8. 

end on to the sea. The Manoeuvre of Tacking. 





X. 

COMBINATION ROWING AND SAILING 
BOATS. 

A BOAT intended for both 
rowing and sailing 
should be partly decked, 
and have as high a 
coaming as possible round the 
cockpit. A folding centerboard 
should be fitted as in Fig. lo, 
so^as to avoid the awkwardness 
of a trunk,which in a small craft 
takes up too much room. Out- 
side ballast is not necessary ; a 
few bags of sand will do in- 
stead. An open boat under 
sail is dangerous except in the 
Sale and ^^^^^ of a skilled boatman. In 
traveler, a scrub racc the helmsman 
^^' ^* cracks on until the lee gun- 
wale is almost on a level with the 
water. He may go along like this for 
some time, but if the water is rough, 
ten to one a sea will sooner or later come 
in over the lee bow, and the weight of 
water to leeward may cause the boat 
to capsize before the sheet can be let go 
and the helm put hard down to bring 
her head to wind. This in itself is not 
agreeable ; and failing to right the boat 
one may be compelled to* cling to the 
keel or rail until relief comes, or till he 
gets too tired to hang on any longer. 



Combination Rowing and Sailing Boats, 141 

The excellent sport of sailing in a stiff 
breeze is obtained at its best only in a 
partly decked boat. The half-decked 
craft may also be made into a life-boat 
with the aid of water-tight boxes of tin 
or zinc. The cockpit should be made as 
narrow as is compatible with comfort. 

The combination rowing and sailing 
boat should have as little gear as possi- 
ble. Sheets and halyards should always 
be kept clear for running and never be 
allowed to get foul. If you are so un- 
lucky or so imprudent as to meet with 
a capsize, keep clear of the ropes, for a 



Jib and Mainsail Rig. Fig. 2. 

turn of one round the leg may send you 
to Davy Jones's locker. 

In writing of rigs suitable for small 
craft I shall not weary my readers with 
descriptions of sails that are not at all 
adapted for practical use in American 
waters. The amateur desirous of be- 



142 BOAT SAILING, 

coming acquainted with the rig of boats 
suitable for Bermuda waters, the Nor- 
folk Broads, the Nile, or the inland lakes 
of Timbuctoo must look elsewhere. 
Nevertheless the amateur may rest con- 
fident that I give practical instructions 
for the best possible rigs, and he may- 
adopt any one of them after due consid- 
eration of the comments on each variety 
without any fear of future regret. 

The mast of the combination sailing 
and rowing boat which is shown in Fig. 
2, should be so stepped that it can be 
taken down at a moment's notice. It 
should not be stepped into the keelson 
through a hole in the thwart, but should 
be fitted with a strong iron clamp and pin 
screwed to the after part of the thwart, 
so that it may be xmshipped in a hurry. 
The mast should be light and strong. 
The sheave-hole in the head should be 
fitted with a galvanized-iron or yellow- 
metal sheave, and should be sufficiently 
large for the halyards to travel freely 
when the rope is swollen with water. A 
block may be fitted to the mast-head for 
the jib halyards. The boat should be 
provided with a galvanized-iron horse 
for the lower block of the mainsheet to 
travel on. This is a great convenience 
in beating to windward as the boom will 
go over by itself without the aid of the 
helmsman. The sail also sets better 
with the aid of a horse to keep the 
boom down. 

The jib sheets and all halyards should 
lead aft within easy reach of the helms- 
man so that he may be able to handle 



Cojnbination Rowing and Sailing Boats, 14o 

them without letting go the tiller. The 
cushions of the stern sheets should be 
stuffed with cork shavings such as 
grapes come packed in from Spain. 
They should have life lines sewed to 
them so that in case of need they may 
be used as life-preservers. 




Sprit Rig. Fig. 3. 

The boat should be equipped with 
three oars ( as one may be broken ), 
a boat-hook and a baler ; and the plug 
in the bottom should be secured to the 
boat by a lanyard and screw-eye. A 
tiller should be used for steering when 
sailing and not a yoke and lines. 

Remember that you must luff when 
the first breath of the squall strikes the 
boat, for if way is lost and the boat is 
hove down on her beam ends, lee helm 
ceases to possess its virtue and the boat 
may capsize. This is a sound and wise 
axiom and one that a beginner should 



144 BOAT SAILING. 

impress rigidly on his mind. Never 
allow skylarking in a boat. Never at- 
tempt to climb the mast of an open boat, 
as it is an operation fraught with dan- 
ger. Rather tinstep the mast for any 
repairs that may be necessary. Never 
stand on the thwarts of a small boat 
when under way. 

If women and children are on board 
never gybe the boom over. Many acci- 
dents have happened through the neg- 
lect of this precaution. No matter how 
expert a boat-sailer you may be, never 
take women and children out in a boat 
with only yourself to handle her. Al- 
ways take care that you have with you 
either a skilled professional hand or an 
amateur who knows the ropes, can take 
his trick at the tiller and does not lose 
his head in a squall or other emergency 
of sea, lake, sound or river. In default 
of being able to command the services 
of such a man, leave the women and 
children ashore and postpone the excur- 
sion heedless of the tears and entreaties 
of your best girl and the black looks of 
your prospective mother-in-law. A lov- 
ers' quarrel is easily made up, but a 
capsized boat may mean loss of life and 
agonies of regret and self-reproach. 

I was once persuaded against my bet- 
ter judgment to take out a party of la- 
dies for a sail in a jib-and-mainsail boat. 
We put out from a dock at Perth- Am- 
boy in the afternoon, with a cloudless 
sky and a soft, sweet summer zephyr 
blowing. There was one other of my 
se^c aboard and he told me he perfectly 



Combination Rowing and Sailing Boats, 145 

understood the handling of a boat. He 
wore a yachting suit and cocked his eye 
aloft in a knowing and nautical mannei: 
that deceived even an old stager like 
myself. A huge black bank of clouds 
arose in the northwest presaging the 
speedy approach of a savage thunder- 
squall. I told my nautical - looking 
shipmate to lower the jib, but he did not 
know how to find the halyards, and he 
was equally ignorant of the whereabouts 
of the sheet. I gave the tiller to one of 
the girls to hold, hauled down the jib, 
made it fast, lowered the mainsail and 
furled it as snugly as I could and then 
let go the anchor which, luckily, hadn't 
been left ashore. All this time my nau- 
tical-looking chum was star-gazing. As 
a matter of fact he knew no more about 
a boat than a bull knows of trigonome- 
try. His specialty, I was afterwards in- 
formed, was measuring off tape by the 
yard and ogling his customers. I had 
to do a good deal of hustling to get the 
craft snug for the squall and to stow 
away my girl guests in the shelter of the 
little half-deck forward, where they fit- 
ted as tight as sardines in a box. 

When the squall struck us it was a 
hummer and no mistake. I veered out 
all the cable there was and she rode to 
it quite well. There came a deluge of 
rain with the blast, and the boat was 
soon nearly half full. The girls screamed 
and prayed. The counter-jumper looked 
pale about the gills and being too scared 
to bail flopped on his marrow-bones. 
Now praying on shipboard is not to be 



146 BOAT SAILING. 

scoffed at, but it should be delayed until 
man has exhausted every possible means 
of saving the ship. I had to do all the 
bailing myself and when the squall had 
blown itself out I had to set the sails 
and hoist the anchor without any aid 
from the linen-draper. 

That is one reason why I don't go sail- 
ing single-handed any more with a boat- 
load of girls. Do you blame me, ship- 
mates ? They are as likely to get cranky 
as the boat herself, and one female at a 
time is all the average man can keep on 
an even keel. Of course I know many 
girls who can give me points and beat 
me easily in yachting and all that apper- 
tains thereto ; but fair ones of that sort 
are not so plentiful as they might be. 

It should be remembered that these 
small rowing and sailing boats are not 
intended for a spin round Sandy Hook 
lightship. They are for smooth water 
and in their place are capable of afford- 
ing their owners an immense amount of 
wholesome enjoyment. On a pinch they 
will stand a hard tussle with wind and 
wave, but it is never wise to tempt Prov- 
idence. I once knew an Irishman who 
often declared that he was so favored by 
fortune that he could fall off a dock into 
the water and not get wet, but the aver- 
age man is not built that way. An am- 
bitious amateur may well begin his ca- 
reer on the water with one of these 
interesting little toys I have described, 
and even if he aspires to become the 
owner of a stouter and more seaworthy 
craft in which to essay adventurous 



Combination Rowing and Sailing Boats. 147 

cruises of great emprise, he will learn 
much that i^ of value from her. 

With these cautionary remarks I will 
proceed to describe the rigs which in 
my judgment are suitable for boats 
measuring from twelve to seventeen 
feet over all. 

The leg-of-mutton rig, whether com- 
bined with a jib or not, is the simplest 
and safest known, for there is no weight 
aloft such as is inevitable with a gaff. 



Leg-of-mutton Rig. Fig. 4. 

It is a sail exactly adapted to the re- 
quirements of a learner. The most 
nervous mother need not be alarmed if 
her boy goes sailing in a boat equipped 
with this rig. The sail is hoisted by a 
single halyard bent to the cringle at the 
head of the sail and rove through either 



148 



BOAT SAILING. 



a sheave or a block at the masthead. 
Sometimes the luff is laced to the mast, 
but it is better that it should be seized 
to hoops, as shown in Fig. 4. If a boom 
is used a larger sail can be carried, but 
it should be only a light spar and the 
foot of the sail should be laced to it. 




Cat Rig. Fig. 9. 

The boom may be fitted with a topping 
lift and the sheet be rove as shown in 
the illustration. In a small open boat 
no stays are necessary for the mast, but 
the jib halyards should be belayed to a 
cleat on one gunwale of the boat and 
the main halyards on the other, so as to 
afford support to the mast. 



Coinbmatio7i Rowing' and Sailing Boatci. 149 

The jib and leg-of-mutton sail is a de- 
servedly popular rig. A short bow- 
sprit may be fitted to a boat and secured 
to an eyebolt in the stem by a wire bob- 
stay. A wire forestay may be set up to 
the bowsprit end and a jib raay be bent 
to iron hanks on it and hoisted by a sin- 
gle halyard. Or it may be set flying 

The advantages of the cat rig (Fig. 
9) for general handiness have been oft- 
en explained. I should advise that the 
sail be hoisted by both throat and peak 
halyards and not by a single halyard 
as is soinetimes the case. It is often 
most convenient to be able to drop the 
peak, when gybing, for instance, or 
when struck by a squall. A single top- 
ping lift should be fitted with an eye 
splice to the end of the boom and 
rove through a block at the mast- 
head and belayed to a cleat on the mast. 
The main sheet should travel on an 
iron horse. A short boomkin, with fore- 
stay and bob-stay, may help to secure 
the mast. 

The balance lug, which is illustrated 
in Fig. 8, is quite a popular rig, and it 
has much in its favor. The sail is laced 
to a yard and boom and is hoisted by a 
single halyard rove through a sheave- 
hole in the masthead and spliced to the 
eye of the hook of a galvanized-iron 
traveler, to which a strop on the yard 
is hooked, as shown in the illustration. 
On the other end of the halyard a sin- 
gle block is turned in, through which a 
rope is rove, the standing part of which 
is made fast to an eyebolt at the foot 



150 



BOAT SAILING. 




Balance Lug Rig. Fig. 8. Showing Traveler and 
Halyards. 

of the mast and the hauling part rove 
through a block and led aft within easy- 
reach of the helmsman. The tack should 
be made fast to the boom and set up 
to the mast thwart after being passed 
round the mast. The main sheet should 
work on a galvanized- iron horse. This 
rig is quite handy and a boat so 
equipped is smart in stays. 

The sliding gunter rig, which is shown 
in Fig. 5, has this much to recommend 
it : it is easily set if rigged as shown in 
the illustration and it can quickly be 
reefed. It will be seen that the mast is 



Combination Rowing and Sailing Boats, 151 

in two pieces, the topmast sliding^ up and 
down the lower mast on two wrought- 
iron rings or travelers. The halyards 
are sometimes made fast to the lower 
traveler and sometimes to the upper. 
They reeve through a sheave-hole in the 
lower masthead and may be set up with 
a single whip purchase. The lower mast 
may be supported with a single wire 
shroud on each side and, if the double 
headrig is carried, with a wire stay to 
the stem head. The sail should be laced 
to the topmast and secured to the lower 
mast by hoops or iron rings leathered. 
These should be large enough to slide 
easily up and down the mast, which 
should be kept well greased. The top- 
mast should be so rigged that the upper 




Sliding Gunter Rig. Fig. 5. 



152 



BOAT SAILING. 



iron can be undamped and the topmast 
lowered down so as to permit the sail 
to be stowed like a gaff-sail along the 
boom. With the sail thus furled the 
boat will ride much easier in a breeze 
or a seaway. In Fig. 6 the working of 
the rig is shown: i is the lower mast, 
2 the topmast, 3 the halyards, 4 the 
upper ring, or traveler, with a clamp 




Detail of Sliding Gunter Rig, Fig. 6. 



and pin to permit the lowering of the 
topmast, 5 the lower ring or traveler, 
which is fitted with a hinge at 6 ; 7 is 
the gooseneck of the boom to which 
the foot of the sail is laced. Reefing is 
simple. Lower away on the halyards, 
make fast the cringle on the luff of the 
sail, at whatever reef band is desired, to 
the gooseneck on the boom. Haul out 
the corresponding reef earing, make it 
fast, tie your reef points and hoist up 



Combinatio7i Rowing and Sailmg Boats, 158 

the sail again by the halyards. A top- 
ping lift is necessary. 

The spritsail is not often seen in these 
waters, but it is a good sail for a small 
boat. I warn the beginner, however, 
against its use in a craft of any preten- 
sions to size, for he will find the heavy . 
sprit much more difficult to handle than 
a gaff. A spritsail is similar in shape 
to the mainsail of a cutter, with the peak 
higher and the foot shorter, as in Fig. 3. 
The sprit is a spar which crosses the 
sail diagonally from luff to peak. It is 
thick in the middle, and each end is 
tapered. The upper end fits into a 
cringle or eye in the peak of the sail 
and the lower end into a snotter on 
the mast. The sprit stretches the sail 
quite flat and thus a boat is able to 
point well to windward. The snotter 
is a piece of stout rope having an eye 
in each end, one being passed round 
the mast and rove through the eye in 
the other end, the heel of the sprit fit- 
ting in the remaining eye. If the 
snotter carries away, the heel of the 
sprit may be forced by its own weight 
through the bottom of the boat; accord- 
ingly, as it has to stand considerable 
strain, it should be made of stout stuff. 
To set the sail, hoist it up by the hal- 
yards, slip the upper end of the sprit 
into the cringle in the peak, push it up 
as high as you can and insert the heel 
into the snotter ; then trim the sheet. 
In large boats the snotter is made fast 
to an iron traveler which is hoisted by a 
whip purchase as shown in Figs, i and 3. 



154 



BOAT SAILING. 



The sprit rig cannot be said to be 
pretty, and when the sail is large it is 
difficult to reef it. I should not coun- 
sel its use except in a boat intended for 
both rowing and sailing, where the sail 
would be so small as to be easily 
muzzled in case of a squall. The sprit- 
sail is hoisted by halyards, 
rove through a block or 
sheave-hole at the mast- 
head and hooked to a crin- 
gle at the throat of the sail. 
The tack of the sail is lashed 
to an eyebolt in the mast. 
In reef- 
ing the 
spr i tf 
must, 
be low- 
ered by 

shifting the 
snotter further 
down the mast. 




Folding Centerboard. 



Fig". lo. 




XL 
RIGGING AND SAILS. 

WIRE has entirely superseded rope 
for standing rigging, and dead- 
eyes and lanyards are fast 
giving way before the advance 
of the turnbuckle. An old sailor can- 
Hot help regretting the decline and fall 
of his profession and the growing 
popularity of the art of the black- 
smith. So far as the rigging of ships is 
concerned, when wire rigging was first 
introduced it was thought that its rigid- 
ity would prove a fatal objection to its 
successful use. 

Science has, however, set its foot down 
firmly on such objections. The decree 
has gone forth that rigging cannot pos- 
sibly be set up too taut, and the less it 
stretches the better. The old argument 
that a yacht's standing rigging should 
'< give " when the craft is caught in a 
squall, which old sea dogs were so fond 
of advancing, has been knocked on the 
head by scientific men who declare that 
a vessel's heeling capacity affords much 
more relief than the yielding quality of 
rigging. Thus all or nearly all of the 
modern immense steel sailing vessels in 
the East Indian and Australian trade 
have. their steel masts stayed as rigidly 
as possible by means of turn buckles, and 
practice seems to have demonstrated the 



156 



BOAT SAILING, 



truth of the theory. These ships en- 
counter terrific seas and gales off the 
Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn, and 
their masts are thus subjected to violent 
and sudden strains, but I have been as- 
sured by the commanders of several of 
these great freight carriers that they 
have never known their " sticks *' to be 
imperilled by the rigidity of the rigging, 
and the tauter it can be set up the more 
secure the masts are supposed to be. 

There are, however, a number of old 
salts who condemn this theory as rank 
heresy, and go in for deadeyes and lan- 
yards of the old-fashioned kind, and the 
greater the stretch between the upper 
and the lower deadeyes the better are 
they pleased. There is no doubt that 
turnbuckles look neater than deadeyes, 
and they are probably well suited for 
small craft. The Herreshoffs have long 
used them for setting 
up the rigging of the 
sloops and yawls of 
moderate size which 
they used to turn out 
in such numbers, and 
which first laid the 
foundation of their 
fame. The boat owner 
can please himself as to 
which method he may 
choose, and he can rely 
that with either his^— 
mast will be perfectly*^ 
secure. Both methods 
are shown in the ac- shroud, deadeye, 
companying cuts. uumyard. 




RIGGING AND SAIIS. 



157 



There is one thing in connection with 
wire rigging that I must warn the ama- 
teur against. Beware of shod wire rig- 
ging. " Shoes " are iron plates riveted 
to the ends of wire rigging to receive 
shackle bolts. They are never reliable. 
E ye splices in wire never draw. " Shoes" 
often collapse without notice. 

Turnbuckles are very 
handy appliances for set- 
ting up rigging in a hurry, 
whereas the same opera- 
tion conducted by means 
of a deadeye and a lanyard 
takes much more time and 
trouble. A small craft 
rigged as a sloop, cutter 
or yawl, requires only one 
shroud on each side to 
afford lateral support to 
the - mast, and a f orestay 
— which in the case of a 
cutter or yawl should set 
up at the stem head, but ^ 
on a sloop is set up on the ^ |SI^ 
bowsprit. A simple way /^^ 
to fit the rigging is to 
splice an eye in each 
shroud, forming a collar 
suf^ciently large to pass over the 
masthead, first covering the part that 
is to form the eye with canvas sewn 
on and painted. The starboard shroud 
goes over the masthead first, then 
the port • one and last the forestay. 
♦ In large yachts the lower rigging 
is often fitted in pairs, the bight of the 
shrouds being passed over the masthead 




TURNBUCKLE. 



158 



BOAT SAILING. 



and secured in the form of an eye with a 
stout wire seizing. 

Many riggers shackle the shrouds to 
an iron band fitted to the hounds. This 
plan is open to objection. There may 
be a flaw in the iron and the band may 
give way suddenl}^, causing the mast to 
snap off short like the stem of a clay 
pipe. Bands may look a little more 
snug than the collars, but they are 
heavier aloft and not so 
reliable, and for these 
reasons I am old-fash- 
ioned enough to prefer 
the collars. 

For a small sloop, cut- 
ter or yawl, a pole mast 
is preferable ; but all 
boats more than twenty 
feet on the water line 
should be fitted with top- 
masts, the rigging of 
which is shown in the 
cut. 

The running bowsprit 
is almost obsolete now-a- 
,days, but the device still 
finds favor with certain 
owners of cutters and 
yawls of large size. It 
certainly has its advan- 
tages. The length of the 
bowsprit is reduced as the jibs are 
shifted, until when the '^ spitfire " or 
storm-jib is set the bowsprit is run 
so far inboard that it looks like a 
mere stump. In a sea-way the bene- 
fit of this is obvious, the weight being 




RIGGING AND SAILS. 159 

materially reduced forward and the 
pitching consequently lessened. The 
jib also sits well and does its work, and 
is far preferable to that horror of horrors 
the *^ bobbed" jib of a sloop, which 
always makes a sailor's flesh creep when 
he sees it. How it has managed to sur- 
vive is a marvel to me. It is a lubberly 
and slovenly device not good enough 
for a scow. The rigging of a running 
bowsprit is shown in the cut. 




RIG OF RUNNING BOWSPRIT. 

When it becomes necessary to set the 
storm trysail, lower away the mainsail 
and furl it as fast as possible. Lower 
the boom down into the crutch amid- 
ships, and secure it by hauling the sheet 
taut and by tackles or lashings from 
each quarter. Unhook the throat and 
peak halyards and hook them on to the 
trysail gaff, the jaws of which parral on 
to the mast, allowing the gaff end to 
rest on the deck. The topping lifts 
must be unhooked from the main boom 
and taken in to the mast or the rigging, 
so as to be out of the way of the try- 
sail. Lace the head of the trysairto 
the gaff. The clew of the trysail is 
hauled aft by a luff-tackle which forms 
the sheet. Another tackle should be 



J 60 BOAT SAILING, 

hooked to the clew and made fast to 
windward over the main boom and gaff, 
so that in case of a shift of wind the 
sheet may be hauled aft on the other 
side without delay or the danger of 
getting aback. Then you can man the 
throat and peak halyards and set the 
sail, trimming the sheet well down. 

If you should have the misfortune to 
carry away the main boom, and you 
have no trysail on board, lower away 
the sail, unlace it from the boom, close- 
reef it, and set it with a luff-tackle for 
a sheet. When about to set the storm 
trysail and your vessel is yawl rigged, 
set the storm mizzen. It will keep her 
head up to the sea while the sails are 
being shifted. In a cutter, heave to by 
hauling the fore sheet to windward, 
keeping the jib full. Shifting jibs in 
heavy weather in a cutter requires care. 
The first thing to do is to get the sail 
up from below and stretch it along 
the weather side of the forward deck 
with the head aft. Haul the foresheet 
to windward and trim the mainsheet in 
flat, tricing up the tack if the sail is 
loose-footed. Keep the boat as close 
to the wind as possible. Let go the 
jib outhaul, and the sail will fly in along 
the bowsprit. Muzzle it, man the down- 
haul, let go the halyards and down with 
it ! Then reef the bowsprit. Some 
cutters are fitted with a rack and pin- 
ion wheel, with a handle like that of a 
winch, for this purpose. If not supplied 
with this handy contrivance, reeve a- 
heel rope, and after slacking the bob- 




RIGGING AND SAILS. IGl 

stay fall and the falls 
of the shrouds and 
topmast stay, heave 
on it until you can 
knock the fid out. 
Then rouse the bow- 
sprit in by the shroud 
tackles to the second 
or third fid holes, as 
desired ; ship the fid 
and set up the gear, 
bei^inning- with the ^i^rse for main 

-I -1 SHEEX 

bobstay, the weadier 
shroud next and the lee shroud last, 
at the same time taking in the slack 
of the topmast stay. Now to set the 
jib. First hook on the sheets and 
take a turn with the lee one ; next 
hook on the tack to the traveler and 
the halyards to the head. Man the 
outhaul and bowse the tack out to the 
bowsprit end. Hoist up on the hal- 
yards and sweat up with the purchase. 
Trim the sheet, let draw the foresheet, 
ease off the mainsheet and sail her along 
again. If these instructions are carried 
out a storm jib may be set on a reefed 
bowsprit without parting a rope yarn. 

To shake a reef out in the mainsail, 
set up on the topping lift so that it may 
take the weight of the boom. Untie all 
the reef points. Cast off the lashing at 
the tack if the sail is laced to the boom, 
or come up the tack tackle if it is loose- 
footed. Then ease off the reef earring 
and hoist the sail, setting up the throat 
first. You can then Qa,vSe up the topping 
lift and trim sheet. 



162 BOAT SAILING. 

A convenient method of bending and 
unbending a storm trysail is shown in 
Fig. X and Fig. E. 





FIG. X. FIG. E. 

Fig. X represents the shape of the 
mast hoops, to each of which two iron 
hooks are fastened. The hoops are of 
the ordinary size, but about one-quarter 
of their length is sawn out and to the 
ends the iron hooks are riveted. Fig. E 
shows how the thimble toggles are 
seized to the luff of the sail at regular 
intervals. When it is necessary to set 
the trysail, adjust the jaws of the gaff to 
the mast, make fast the parral, hook on 
the throat and peak halyard blocks and 
mouse them. Hoist up slowly, slipping 
the thimbles over the hooks on the ends 
of the hoops as the sail goes up. The 
sheet must be hauled aft before the sail 
is hoisted, and should be slacked off 
handsomely to allow the sail to be prop- 
erly set. Then all hands should clap on 
it and flatten it in. 

If your boat is rigged as a cutter or 
yawl the foresail may have the tack 
made fast to the eyebolt to which the 
stay is set up. The lufE of the sail is 
seized to galvanized iron hanks that run 



RIGGING AND SAILS. 163 

up and down on the stay. If the fore- 
sail has a reef band in it (as it should) a 
lacing is used between the reef and tack 
cringles. Don't bowse Up the halyards 
too taut the first time you set the sail, 
and don't break your back flattening in 
the sheet. Give it a chance to stretch 
fairly. The same remark also applies 
to the jib, whether set on a stay or flying 
on its own luff, as it must necessarily 
do if your craft is equipped with a run- 
ning bowsprit. 

For the sake of lightness, blocks are 
frequently made too small. Manilla 
rope, of which both sheets and halyards 
should be made, has a habit of swelling 
when wet. It is generally rove on a 
dry day, and renders through blocks 
quite easily when in this condition. A 
rain squall will swell this rope to such 
an extent, and halyards will jam so hard, 
that sails will not come down when 
wanted, and disasters happen. The 
work of setting and taking in sail is 
made very laborious through small 
blocks and large sized halyards. It 
should be borne in mind that halyards 
ought to run through blocks as freely 
w^hen wet as dry. Blocks should always 
be fitted with patent sheaves. 

The running rigging of a mainsail 
consists of peak and throat halyards, 
topping lifts, main sheet and peak down- 
haul. To bend a mainsail, shackle the 
throat cringle to the eyebolt under the 
jaws of the gaff, stretch the head of 
the sail along the gaff, reeve the peak 
earring through the hole in the end of 



164 



BOAT SAILING. 



the gaff and haul it out, securing it in 
the manner shown in the illustration. 
The earring is represented with the 
turns passed loosely in order to give the 
amateur a clear and distinct view of the 
proper method. It will be seen that a a 
is the peak end of the gaff ; ^J' is a cheek 
block for the topsail sheet ; ^ is a block 
for the peak down haul, used also as 
signal halyards, hooked to an eyebolt 
screwed into the end of the gaff, the 
hook of the block being moused ; <2f is a 
hole in the gaff end through which the 
earring is passed. The earring is spliced 
into the cringle with a long eye splice. 




It is then passed through d round 
through the cringle e; through d again 
and through e again ; then up over the 
gaff at i and k, down the other side and 
through e again, and so on up round the 
gaff four or five times ; at the last, in- 
stead of going up over the gaff again, 
the earring is passed between the parts 
round the gaff as shown at/, round all 
the parts that were passed through d^ as 
shown at ni, and jammed by two half 
hitches m and //. 

If the sail is new froin the sailmaker's 
loft, only haul the head out hand taut or 
you will ruin it. I have seen yacht skip- 



RIGGING AND SAILS. 165 

pers clap a "• handy billy " tackle on the 
head of a new mainsail and haul on it till 
they could get no more. I have seen 
them treat the foot in the same way, the 
result being a great bag of canvas of no 
possible use in beating to windward. A 
mainsail costs a good deal of money 
and is easily spoiled. One of Mr. John 
M. Sawyer's splendidly cut sails can 
have all its utility and beauty taken out 
of it in half-an-hour by a lubberly sail- 
ing master. 

After the head earring is passed, lace 
the head of the sail to the gaff, taking a 
half hitch at each eyelet hole. Next 
seize the luff of the sail to the mast 
hoops with marline. The foot of the 
mainsail should next be made fast to 
the boom in the same manner as the 
peak, the lacing going round a wire 
jackstay rove through eyebolts on the 
top of the boom. Do not " sweat up " 
either the throat or peak halyards too 
taut the first time you set it, and avoid 
reefing a new sail. Lower it down 
altogether, set the trysail, or do the best 
you can under head sail and the mizzen 
if on board a yawl. A mainsail should 
always be allowed to stretch gradually, 
and the slack of the head and the foot 
should be taken up at intervals. Re- 
member that no greater injury can be 
done to a new sail than to try and make 
it sit flat by hauling out the foot too 
taut before it has been properly 
stretched. The best authorities advise 
that the sail should be set with the leech 
slack, and the boat run before a strong 



16(5 BOAT SAILING, 

wind for several hours. Another excel- 
lent plan is to hoist the sail up with the 
foot and head slack while the boat is at 
anchor,and as it flaps about in the breeze 
the sail will stretch without injury. Of 
course when the head and f jot are thor- 
oughly stretched they can be hauled 
out taut as they can be got. 

Personally, I prefer a mainsail with 
the foot laced to the boom, but all are 
not of my way of thinking. A loose- 
footed mainsail still has admirers and 
this is how it works. The mainsail out- 
haul consists of an iron horse on th6 
boom, a shackle as traveler, a wire out- 
haul made fast to the shackle and rove 
through a sheavehole at the boom end 
and set up by a purchase. 



^TWO SHACKLES 



5 ;; BOOM ./t'":' 




GEAR FOR HAULING OUT LOOSE-FOOTED MAINSAIL. 

If the mainsail is of the loose-footed 
variety it should be fitted with a tack 
tricing tackle and a main tack purchase. 
The last named is handy for bowsing 
down the luff of the sail '' bar taut " for 
racing. Sweating-up the throat halyards 
lowers the peak slightly, and peaking the 
sail slackens the luff. By hauling up on 
the main tack tricing tackle till you can 
get no more, and at the same time lower- 



RIGGING AND SAILS. 167 

ing the peak, the mainsail is " scandal- 
ized " and the boom can then be gybed 
over in a strong breeze with the least 
possible risk of carrying away some- 
thing. 

To prevent masthoops from jamming 
when the mainsail is being hoisted or 
lowered, a small line is seized to the fore- 
side of the top hoop and then to every 
hoop down the mast. When the throat 
halyards are pulled on, the foresides of 
the hoops feel the strain and go up par- 
allel with the after sides. The accom- 
panying figure shows this at a glance. 




It is true that this method has found 
little favor with amateurs, but I tried it 
with great success on my first cruising 
craft, and later on in a yacht of tar 
greater pretensions. The " wrinkle " 
should by no means be despised. 



XII. 
LAYING UP FOR THE WINTER. 

THE judicious yachtsman will per- 
sonally superintend the laying- up 
of his craft. If he has that ines- 
timable blessing, a good skipper, 
he should not discharge him at the close 
of his summer season. If he does he will 
bitterly regret it. A yacht requires as 
much watchful care as a baby, and this is 
especially true during the trying winter 
season. So wise yacht-owners who have 
in their employ faithful captains should 
hold on to them like grim death to a 
deceased army mule. Good men are 
not too plentiful these times. 

A few practical suggestions as to pre- 
paring the vessel for the winter are here 
appended. In the first place, sails 
should be well dried before being un- 
bent, and then should be carefully 
stopped and labeled, and the same re- 
mark applies also to the running gear. 
By all means secure storage ashore for 
sails, gear, cabin fitments and furniture, 
carpets, upholstery and bedding, other- 
wise you may have cause to regret it in 
the spring. In most of the buildings 
devoted to the storage of yacht gear 
proper platforms or stages are provided, 
so that a free current of air may circu- 
late, and thus prevent damp, mildew 
and decay. The lower tier on the plat- 
form should consist of the warps and 



LA YING UP FOR THE WINTER. 169 

running gear, on top of which the sails 
should be snugly coiled. Above these 
the furniture, bedding and upholstery 
should go. AH can be covered over 
with an old light sail to protect them 
from dust. This can be removed as 
often as necessary for airing purposes. 

On the other side of the Atlantic ju- 
dicious owners of storage warehouses 
make their platforms rat-proof, follow- 
ing out the same idea as the farmer does 
with his wheat stacks. Each support 
to the stage is capped with a metal 
cone, which effectually stops the upward 
progress of the sail-devouring vermin. 
Well - conducted warehouses are well 
ventilated, and the temperature is kept 
tolerably even by heat. 

Of course, all articles of value, such as 
plate and nautical instruments, should 
find repository in their owner's dwelling. 

All light spars should be sent ashore 
and lashed up under the beams of the 
warehouse. The same with the row- 
boats, but with attention to the fact that 
they should be so supported as to have 
their weight evenly distributed, and 
thus prevent them from being pulled 
out of shape. 

Many expensive boats are hopelessly 
ruined by neglect of this precaution. 
This is the proper method of support- 
ing a rowboat so that straining her is 
impossible. Six eyebolts should be 
screwed into the under side of the 
beams of the warehouse at proper in- 
tervals to take the weight of the boat 
amidships and at the third of her length 



170 BOAT SAILING, 

forward and aft. From these eyebolts 
ropes of sufficient length should de- 
pend, to which, in the bight, a hand- 
spike is passed, on which, bottom up- 
ward, the boat is hung. 

A yacht laid up without the greatest 
care deteriorates in value to an enor- 
mous extent. The first process after 
dismantling is to clean the vessel 
thoroughly inside and out, just as care- 
fully as if she was about to be con- 
tinued m commission. After getting 
her as bright as a new pin, all the hard- 
wood — that which is varnished or gilded 
— should be covered up with canvas. 

After the yacht has been thoroughly 
skinned, as far as her internal arrange- 
ments are concerned, the last process 
preliminary to paying her out of com- 
mission, is to give her decks a coat or 
two of bright varnish — shunning that 
mixture known in the trade as pure oil, 
as deleterious to all decks. 

It is cheaper in the long run to pro- 
vide a yacht with properly fitted winter 
hatches which entirely cover the hard- 
wood deck fittings and secure thorough 
ventilation, as then the regular skylights 
can be left open. 

In small craft the sailing master will 
be sufficient to keep the boat in first- 
class condition. On larger vessels, ac- 
cording to size, he should have compe- 
tent assistance. 

Whether a yacht is moored alongside 
a quay or another vessel, winter storms 
cause her^ to do a little rolling, which 
invariably induces chafing. Unless a 



LA YING UP FOR THE WINTER. 171 

vessel is properly protected by fenders, 
her planksheer and bulwarks are sure 
to be seriously injured, and to repair 
this part of a ship is costly in the ex- 
treme, especially in regard to the plank- 
sheer. Should the planksheer be 
" shoved up " by contact with the dock 
or the ship to which she is moored along- 
side, the damage done could only be 
properly repaired by the removal of 
both bulwark and rail. To guard 
against severe injuries of this kind un- 
ceasing vigilance is necessary. If you 
can induce your skipper to live on board, 
all the better. In such a case your 
yacht will be kept in as dainty condi- 
tion as your wife's boudoir. Snow is 
very penetrating. It will find its way 
even through rubber boots. A little 
leak may at first have no significance. 
But the leak increases and rot follow^s, 
fastenings are corroded and paintwork 
discolored. 

Every vessel afloat suffers more or 
less from "sweating," caused by the 
difference between the temperature of 
the air outside and inside the ship. To 
obviate this a fire should be kept going ; 
not a furious furnace that would involve 
a great expenditure of coal, but simply 
some heating device that gives a mod- 
erate amount of warmth all through 
the ship. Thus, when the owner re- 
turns to his yacht in the spring, he will 
find her sweet and clean, and will never 
regret the few paltry dollars it has cost 
him to keep his floating summer home 
in seagoing condition. The careful 



172 BOAT SAILING. 

skipper will see that his extra help is 
kept busy, so that not only a casual vis- 
itor must compliment her owner on her 
spick and span condition, but a naval 
architect or a Lloyd's surveyor can find, 
no flaw or fault to peck at. For, down 
to her deadwood and timbers, by the 
application of soap, hot water and plenty 
of elbow-grease, she is made fit for re- 
painting- right down to her keel. 

By conservative and preservative 
methods such as these a yacht's life is 
prolonged, and she will always fetch her 
value in the market, the noisome odor 
of bilge water being unknown. 

The foregoing remarks are applicable 
to pleasure craft that are kept afloat 
during the winter. It is needless to ex- 
patiate on the benefit of hauling out 
yachts of any size or construction, 
whether of wood, composite, iron, steel 
or Tobin bronze or aluminum. The 
expense of hauling large boats out is 
considerable, for obvious reasons, and 
thus it is that yacht owners do not 
care to incur the cost. This objection 
does not apply to small craft, which 
should invariably be landed for the 
winter and efficiently protected by can- 
vas, or other covering, from the de- 
structive influence of snow and rain. 
All that has been said above in relation 
to the storage of sails and gear applies 
as much to a one-tonner as to the largest 
pleasure craft afloat. 

When we go into the question of 
steam yachts, no better advice can be 
given than that contained above, so far 



LA VING UP FOR THE WINTER, 173 

as htill and equipment are concerned. It 
is different when the proper care of 
machinery is considered. There it is 
where the services of a loyal and skill- 
ful eng-ineer come into full play. Unless 
sufficient attention is paid to a vessel's 
boilers and engines during the critical 
time when she reposes in dock, disas- 
trous results, entailing vast expenditure, 
are sure to follow. The complicated 
and ingenious mechanism w^hich propels 
the modern steam yacht requires de- 
voted regard. Very expensive when 
new, repairs during their second season, 
if in any way neglected in the winter, 
call for the resources of the purse of a 
Croesus. In matters of this kind the old 
adage which relates to a stitch in time 
should be noted by the prudent yacht 
owner. Thus it is that an engineer and 
a sufficient staff should be kept on the 
pay roll in the winter for economic 
reasons alone. By this means extrav- 
agant bills for unnecessary repairs will 
be avoided. The engineer will take 
pride in his work and do justice to a 
liberal employer. 

It is well known that engineers can 
only become acquainted with the true 
capacity of machinery by long and care- 
ful study. Statistics have proved that 
marine engines in the navy under the 
direction of good men have been run 
with less coal, less oil and greater work- 
ing power year by year when the same 
man has had control of the engine- 
room. All of which means less strain 
on the owner's bank account. 



174 BOAT SAILING. 

Lincoln's famous aphorism about the 
unwisdom of swapping horses when 
crossing a stream applies with great 
precision to skippers and engineers, 
it takes time for the most masterly and 
adroit captain to become acquainted 
with the peculiar idiosyncrasies of a 
vessel, for it is true that each one has 
her own individuality, and it takes time 
to comprehend her. In this they much 
resemble the fair sex. It is a case of 
whip and spur on one hand, and saddle 
and bridle on the other. Which is to 
wield the whip or wear the saddle is a 
question between captain and ship. 
The struggle is sometimes a long one, 
but in the end mind conquers matter. 

The captain, as in the case of Gen. 
Paine and the Mayflower^ eventually 
gets the hang of her, brings her into a 
state of submission, and compels her to 
become a cup winner. The engineer in 
his own sphere accomplishes similar re- 
sults. His machinery runs with the 
regularity of a chronometer. His own- 
er's bills for coal and oil are confined 
within reasonable limits. There are no 
breakdowns. His firemen implicitly 
obey his orders, and all goes well in en- 
gine-room and stoke-hold. 

If these few practical suggestions and 
hints prove of any service to yachts- 
men, captains and engineers, the writer 
will feel happy. He has simply touch- 
ed on the limits of a wide and fertile 
subject that might be expatiated 
upon at a large expense of paper and 
printer's ink. 



XIII. 
USEFUL HINTS AND RECIPES. 

TO whiten decks, mix oxalic acid 
with fresh water in the propor- 
tion of one pound to the gallon. 
Apply lightly with a mop and wash off 
immediately. 

Good elastic marine glne for paying 
seams after they are caulked, can be 
made of one part of india rubber, twelve 
parts of coal tar heated gently in a pitch 
kettle, and twenty parts of shellac added 
to the mixture. When about to use this 
preparation, dip the caulking iron, used 
to drive the oakum or cotton thread 
into the seams, in naphtha, which dis- 
solves the glue and helps to closely 
cement the seams. If oil is used instead 
of naphtha, the glue will not adhere. 
When melting marine glue for paying, 
take care to heat it very slowly. 

Mildew on sails is almost impossible 
to remove, but the stains can the ren- 
dered a little less unsightly by well 
scrubbing the sail on both sides with 
soap and fresh water, and then leaving 
the sail to dry and bleach in the sun. 
Avoid the use of chloride of lime or 
other caustics or acids, which, while 
they might take out the mildew stains, 
would certainly rot the duck. Some- 
times sails must necessarily be stowed 
when damp or wet, but they should be 



176 BOAT SAILING. 

hoisted tip to dry as soon as practicable. 
Every boat should be provided with 
water-proof sail covers. 

Composition paints and other mixt- 
ures for preventing the fouling of boats* 
bottoms are plentiful as clams. Each 
one is warranted to be a specific against 
weeds and barnacles. But wooden or 
iron vessels, however treated, if left for 
any length of time at anchor anywhere 
on the Atlantic or Pacific coasts, are 
sure to become encrusted with bar- 
nacles and to be covered with such a 
rich growth of marine grasses as would 
take some particularly active work with 
a lawn movv^er to remove. Luckily small 
boats can easily be hauled out and 
scrubbed, but those with any pretension 
to size should most certainly be cop- 
pered. Copper in salt water will keep 
clean for a long time, the exfoliation 
being extensive. Some authorities rec- 
ommend that the copper, be coated with 
one or other of the compositions pre- 
pared for that purpose, but I think that 
to leave the copper clean will be more 
satisfactory in the long run. A cop- 
pered cruising vessel should not require 
her bottom to be cleaned more than four 
times in the season, but the oftener a 
racing yacht is hauled out to have her 
copper burnished the better should be 
the result, so far as speed is concerned. 

There are several capital paints in the 
market with which to coat a yacht or 
boat below the water-line. But admi- 
rable though they may be, they are by 
no means weed or barnacle proof. 



USEFUL HINTS AND RECIPES, 177 

In choosing a binocular marine glass, 
take care not to be persuaded into buy- 
ing a trashy article. A good one should 
have a magnifying power of seven times, 
as well as what is known as good defini- 
tion — that is, the quality of showing all 
the outlines of an object with complete 
distinctness and without any haziness. 
To find out if a glass has this quality, 
direct it at any object clearly outlined 
against the sky — a church steeple, for 
instance. If the outlines of the object are 
indistinct, or if they are bordered with 
violet, blue, orange or red light, reject 
the glass, as it will never be worth any-, 
thing. The frame of the glass should 
be rigid, or the tubes will become twisted 
and then you will see two objects in 
place of one. The more powerful a 
glass is the less field it possesses. While 
high power is desirable, it is well that 
a glass should have a large field. A 
poor glass is worse than none at all. 

That sterling seaman, Capt. S. T. S. 
Lecky, tells a capital story about a 
marine glass, which I commend to any- 
body about to purchase one. In the 
window of a shop he noticed a binocular 
with a tag on it, which asserted that the 
glass had rendered an ^^ object" visible 
at the distance of ninety miles. This 
was attested by a letter to be seen 
within. The captain's curiosity was ex- 
cited. On inquiry in the shop he found 
out that the '^object" was none other 
than the peak of the Island of Tristan 
d'Acunha, in the Southern ocean, which 
is so lofty that it can be seen in clear 



178 BOAT SAILING. 

weather by the naked eye at a distance 
of one hundred miles. Therefore I 
say let your motto be caveat emptor 
when you go cruising about in search of 
either a cheap marine telescope or 
binocular among marine store dealers or 
pawnshops. Remember that clearness 
of definition is more to be sought than 
high magnifying power, as in misty 
weather the glass with the last-named 
quality in a marked degree magnifies 
the haze as well as the object, and, of 
course, makes it still more blurred and 
indistinct — a defect on which it is un- 
necessary for me to further enlarge. 

It is hard to distinguish with a low- 
priced binocular on a thick or rainy 
night the color of a vessel's lights, a 
white one sometimes appearing with a 
green or reddish tinge, and a green one 
looking like a white one. This applies 
also to lightships and lighthouses, and 
should make you careful as to your se- 
lection of a glass. 

Captain Lecky says the proper way to 
test a binocular for night use is not to 
stand at a shop door in broad daylight, 
trying how much the glass enlarges 
some distant clock-face, but to wait till 
nightfall and test it by looking up a dark 
street or passage, and if figures before 
only dimly visible to the naked eye are 
rendered tolerably clear by the aid of 
the glasses, you may rest assured you 
have hit on a suitable instrument. It 
is well to go in the first place to an 
optician, and not to a " shoptician *' 
versed in cheap- jack methods. 



180 BOAT SAILING. 

Iron ballast should be coal-tarred- 
painted, or white-washed with hot lime. 

Masts and spars should be scraped 
and sand-papered. If there are any 
cracks in them, they should be stopped 
with marine glue before scraping. Ap- 
ply a coat of wood-filler, then a coat of 
spar composition. When hard, give a 
second coat. Never apply varnish when 
there is much moisture in the atmos- 
phere. In the vicinity of New York, 
wait till the wind is northwest if you 
wish to secure the best and most bril- 
liant results. 

If your boat is white, when repaint- 
ing don't forget to mix a little blue 
with your white lead, raw linseed oil 
and dryers. This cerulean dash im- 
proves the look of the paint, and is far 
better than black, which produces a 
ghastly tint. 




SCOWING AN ANCHOR. 

When for any purpose it becomes 
necessary or desirable to anchor a small 
boat on ground known, or suspected, to 
be foul, it is advisable to scow the an- 
chor. Unbend the cable from the ring ; 
make the end fast round the crown 
shank and flukes with a clove hitch, and 
bring the end a back to s^ and stop it 
round the cable w^ith a piece of spun- 
yarn ; take the cable back to the shackle 
and stop it as at b. When the cable is 



USEFUL HINTS AND RECIPES. 181 

hauled upon by the part o, the stop at 
b will part and the fluke of the anchor 
can be easily broken out and lifted. For 
larg-er vessels a trip-line is sometimes 
bent to the crown and buoyed instead 
of scowing the anchor. 

A capital composition for painting the 
bottoms of boats up to the water-line is 
made as follows : Take one pound of 
red lead, four ounces of copper bronze 
powder, the same weights of arsenic, 
chrome yellow and paris blue, one pint 
of dryers, one pint of boiled oil and one 
pint of copal varnish. Mix thoroughly, 
strain and apply. If too thick add more 
varnish. It will dry a rich copper color. 
It is neither barnacle nor weed proof, 
but is as good as some of the more ex- 
pensive paints which pretend to possess 
both these qualities. Before painting, 
scrub the wood well and smooth down 
with pumice stone. Let it thoroughly 
dry before you begin to use the brush. 

A good black paint for the outside of 
boats is made thus: To six pounds of 
best black paint add one pound of dark 
blue paint and half a pint of dryers. 
Mix w4th equal quantities of raw and 
boiled linseed oil until of the proper 
consistency. Stir well. Strain carefully, 
and then add one pint of copal varnish. 

To stop cracks in a spar: When the 
spar is thoroughly dry run in marine 
glue. When the glue is hard scrape 
some of it out and stop the crevice with 
putty stained the same color as the spar. 

Iron mould and other stains can be 
removed from a deck by a solution of one 



182 BOAT SAILING. 

part of muriatic acid and three parts of 
water. 

THE LEAD LINE. 

The hand lead weighs fourteen pounds. 
The line to which it is attached is twenty- 
five fathoms long, and is marked as fol- 
lows : At two fathoms, leather with two 
ends ; at three fathoms, leather with 
three ends ; at five fathoms, white mus- 
lin ; at seven fathoms, red bunting ; at 
ten fathoms, leather with hole in it ; at 
thirteen fathoms, blue serge ; at fifteen 
fathoms, white muslin ; at seventeen 
fathoms, red bunting ; at twenty fath- 
oms, strand with two knots in it. By 
the different feel of the materials used 
it is easy to distinguish the marks in the 
dark. In sounding when the boat is in 
raotion, swing the lead round and heave 
it as far forward as you can. By filling 
the hollow at the base of the lead with 
grease or tallow, a sample of the bottom 
mud or sand adheres to it, which may be 
useful in verifying the position of the 
boat by comparing it w4th the chart on 
which the nature of the bottom is in- 
dicated. 

The first fathom of the hand lead line 
for use in a boat of light draught may 
be marked off in feet in any legible 
manner satisfactory to the marker. 

The marks on the deep sea lead line 
commence with two knots at twenty 
fathoms, another knot being added for 
every ten fathoms, and a single knot at 
each intermediate five. 

A hand lead for use in a small craflf 
need not be so heavy as fourteen pounds. 



USEFUL HINTS AND RECIPES. 183 

It may not be generally known that 
all watches are compasses if used accord- 
ing to the following instructions. Point 
the hour hand to the Sun, and the South 
is exactly half-way between the hour 
and the figure XII on the dial. For 
instance, suppose it is four o'clock ; 
point the hand indicating four to the 
Sun, and II on the dial is South. Sup- 
pose again it is eight o'clock ; point the 
hand indicating eight to the Sun, and 
the figure X on the dial is South. Some 
cranks carry a compass card in their 
watch case so that they may always 
determine without delay or trouble the 
direction of the wind whenever the Sun 
is visible. 








fo 
hJ 



c 

5 



XIV. 
RULE OF THE ROAD AT SEA. 

THE boat sailer must possess a 
knowledge of the rule of the road 
at sea, unless he wants his sport 
brought to an untimely end by collision. 
He should become thoroughly familiar 
with the International Steering and- 
Sailing Rules, so that if he encounters 
steamships, fishing craft, pilot boats, etc., 
he will be able so to maneuver his own 
vessel as to escape collision. 

The prudent skipper of a little vessel 
should always give steamships and ferry- 
boats a wide berth. Big steamships 
sometimes are slow to answer their 
helms, and often will not get out of the 
way of small craft, although compelled 
to by international law. Should your 
boat be run down by one of these mon- 
sters of the deep you, of course, have 
your remedy in a court, but you are apt 
to find litigation very expensive when 
suing a steamship company, and a suit 
often lingers for years until, having ex- 
hausted every process, it finds itself at 
last on the calendar of the Supreme 
Court of the United States. 

It is not advisable to attempt to cross 
the bow^s of a steamer unless you have 
plenty of room and you are a good judge 
of distances. Steam vessels go at a 
faster rate than they seem to, and the 



186 BOAT SAILING. 

momentum of their impact is very great. 
Instead of crossing a steamer's bow go 
about on the other tack, or haul your 
foresheet to windward till she has pass- 
ed. Discretion is always the better part 
of valor. Not to monkey with ocean 
steamships or ferryboats is as valuable 
advice as that time-honored warning to 
boys not to fool with the buzz-saw. 

Do not get "rattled," whatever you 
do, but keep your eyes " skinned " and 
your head clear. 

Skippers of ferryboats often try to 
show off their smartness by steering as 
close as possible to small pleasure boats 
and then giving them the benefit of their 
wash, sometimes swamping their un- 
fortunate victims. It is fun for the fel- 
low in the ferryboat's pilot-house, but it 
is the reverse of pleasant to the man 
wallowing in the seething water. There- 
fore, do not court danger by approach- 
ing too near these unwieldy marine 
brutes, but if you are so luckless as to get 
into their wash handle your boat so that 
she shall not get into the trough of the 
waves, but take the sea on the bluff of 
the bow, where it will do the least harm. 

Navigation by daylight in fine, clear 
weather is easy, but when it is dark and 
foggy special precautions must be taken 
or collision is inevitable. I do not pro- 
pose to reprint in this little book the 
full text of the international regulations 
for preventing collisions at sea, but I 
have prepared an abstract, which will 
be sufficient for the practical purposes 
of an amateur sailor. 



RULE OF THE ROAD A T SEA. 187 

LIGHTS. 

Between sunset and sunrise the fol- 
lowing lights shall be carried by a 
steamship when under way: 

At the foremast head a bright white 
light, visible on a clear night at a dis- 
tance of five miles, showing the light 
ten points on either side of the ship 
from right ahead to two points abaft 
the beam. 

On the starboard side a green light 
showing from right ahead to two points 
abaft the beam, visible at a distance of 
two miles. 

On the port side a red light similar in 
all respects, except color, to the green 
light. 

To prevent these green and red lights 
from being seen across the bow they 
must be fitted with inboard screens pro- 
jecting at least three feet forward from 
the light. 

Steamships towing other vessels shall 
carry two white masthead lights in ad- 
dition to their side lights. 

Sailing vessels when under way or 
being towed shall carry only the green 
and red lights as provided for steam- 
ships under way. 

Small vessels that cannot carry fixed 
side lights in bad weather must have 
them on deck on their respective sides 
ready for instant exhibition on the ap- 
proach of another vessel. 

All vessels at anchor shall show where 
it can best be seen, at a height not ex- 
ceeding twenty feet above the hull, a 
white light in a globular lantern of eight 



188 BOAT SAILING, 

inches in diameter, visible all round the 
horizon at a distance of at least a mile. 

Pilot vessels shall only carry a white 
light at the masthead, visible all round 
the horizon, and shall exhibit a flare-up 
light every fifteen minutes. 

Open boats are not required to carry 
fixed sidelights, but must, in default of 
such, be provided with a lantern, having 
a green slide on one side and a red slide 
on the other, which must be properly 
shown in time to prevent collision, 
taking care that the green light shall not 
be seen on the port side nor the red 
light on the starboard side. 

Fishing and open boats, when at 
anchor or riding to their nets and sta- 
tionary, shall exhibit a bright white 
light, and may, in addition, use a flare- 
up light if deemed expedient. 

FOG SIGNALS. 

In fog, mist, or falling snow, whether 
by day or night, a steamship under way 
shall blow a prolonged blast of her 
steam whistle every two minutes, or 
oftener. A sailing vessel under way 
shall blow her foghorn (which must be 
sounded by a bellows or other mechani- 
cal device and not by mouth power) at 
intervals of not less than two minutes, 
when on the starboard tack one blast, 
when on the port tack two blasts in suc- 
cession, and when with the wind abaft 
the beam three blasts in succession. 

Vessels not under way shall ring the 
bell at intervals of not less than two 
minutes. 



RULE OF THE ROAD A T SEA, 18^j 

STEERING AND SAILING RULES 
FOR SAILING VESSELS. 

A ship running- free shall keep out of 
the way of a ship closehauled. 

A ship closehauled on the port tack 
shall keep out of the way of a ship close- 
hauled on the starboard tack. 

When both are running free with the 
wind on different sides, the ship which 
has the wind on the port side shall keep 
out of the way of the other. 

When both are running free with the 
wind on the same side, the ship which 
is to windward shall keep out of the way 
of the ship to leeward. 

A ship which has the wind aft shall 
keep out of the way of the other ship. 

FOR STEAM VESSELS. 

If two ships under steam are meeting 
end on, or nearly end on, so as to in- 
volve risk of collision, each shall alter 
her course to starboard so that each 
may pass on the port side of the other. 

If two ships under steam are crossing 
so as to involve risk of collision, the ship 
which has the other on her own star- 
board side shall keep out of the way of 
the other. 

Steamships must, in cases where there 
is risk of collision, keep out of the way 
of sailing vessels. 

A vessel, whether sail or steam, when 
overtaking another, must keep out of 
the way of the overtaken ship. 

Where by the above rules one of two 
ships is to keep out of the way, the other 
shall keep her course. 



190 BOAT SAILING. 

The following rhymes should be com- 
mitted to memory : 

When both sidelights you see ahead, 
Port your helm and show your red 1 
Green to green or red to red, 
Perfect safety — go ahead ! 

If on the port tack you steer, 
It is your duty to keep clear 
Of every closehauled ship ahead, 
No matter whether green or red. 

But when upon your port is seen 
A stranger's starboard light of green. 
There's not so much for you to do, 
For green to port keeps clear of you. 

A ship which is being overtaken by 
another shall show from her stern to 
such last-mentioned ship a white light 
or a flare-up light. This rule was only 
adopted in 1884, but 1 saw it practically 
exemplified in the ship Rajah of Cochin 
in the year 1874. The Rajah was run- 
ning down the Southeast trades one 
pitch dark night in April, homeward 
bound ; I was in charge of the deck. 
We had studdingsails set on both sides, 
on the mainmast and foremast. Sud- 
denly out of the darkness astern there 
loomed up the sails on the foremast of 
a big ship whose jibboom seemed to be 
right over the Rajah's stern. She car- 
ried no side lights, her skipper being 
probably of an economical turn of mind. 
I took the lighted lamp out of the bin- 
nacle, and jumping on the wheel grat- 
ings waved it as high as I could, at the 
same time yelling with all my might. I 
could hear the man on the lookout 



RULE OF THE ROAD AT SEA, 191 

aboard the pursuing vessel roar out, and 
then came a clatter and a rattle of ropes 
and a flapping of sails as with her helm 
hard to port the ship that was pursuing 
us luffed out across our stern. She 
snapped off a few stunsail booms, but 
that was better than running us down. 
Capt. Sedgwick, who was in command 
of the Rajah, was awakened by the noise 
and came up from below in his pajamas. 
He quickly realized what a close shave 
his ship had experienced. 

BUOYS AND BEACONS. 

In approaching channels from seaward 
red buoys marked with even numbers 
will be found on the starboard side of 
the channel and must be left on the 
starboard side in passing in. Black 
buoys with odd numbers will be found 
on the port side of the channel and must 
be left on the port hand in passing in. 

Buoys with red and black horizontal 
stripes will be found on obstructions 
with channel ways on either side of 
them, and may be left on either hand. 

Buoys painted with black and white 
perpendicular stripes will be found in 
mid-channel, and must be passed close 
aboard to avoid danger. 

All other marks to buoys will be in 
addition to the foregoing and may be 
employed to mark particular spots, a 
description of which will be found in 
the printed Government lists. 

Perches, with balls, cages, etc., will, 
when placed on buoys, be at turning 
points, the color and number indicating 
on what side they shall be passed. 



XV, 
THE COMPASS. 

f HAVE no space in this volume to 
I write an exhaustive chapter on navi- 
X gation. It is, however, an art easily 
acquired, and may be wholly self-taught. 
There are certain rudimentary rules for 
finding one's way at sea by dead reckon- 
ing, that everyone starting out on a 
cruise should master. The instruments 
needful are a compass, parallel rulers, 
dividers, patent log, lead line, aneroid 
barometer, clock, and the necessary 
charts of the sea which it is proposed 
to navigate. 

In a small cruiser a compass is gen- 
erally carried in a portable binnacle. 
When steering by it take care that the 
lubber's point is in a direct line with 
the keel or stem and sternpost. For the 
benefit of the uninitiated, I will explain 
that the lubber's point is the black ver- 
tical line in the foreside of the compass 
bowl, by which the direction of the ves- 
sel's head is determined. A misplaced 
lubber's point is sure to cause grave 
errors in the course actually made. The 
compass should be as far removed as 
possible from ironwork of any kind. A 
spirit compass, as I have remarked 
elsewhere, is the only kind suitable for 
small craft. Those with cards of hard 



THE COMPASS. 



193 



enamel, floating in tin diluted alcohol, 
which renders freezing impossible, are 
the best. The amateur boat s ailer should 
become familiar with the compass, be 
able to box it by both points and de- 
grees, and to name its back bearings. 




The points of the compass are thirty- 
two in number, as follows : 



North South-East by E. 

North by East South-East 
North, North-EastSouth-East by S. 
North-East by N. South, South-E. 
North- East South by East 

North-East by E. South 
East, North-East South bv West 
East by North South, South- W . 
East South-West by S. 

East by South South-West 
East, South.East South- West by W 



West, South-W. 

West by South 

West 

West by North 

West, North-West 

North-West by W. 

North-West 

North-West by Ww 

North, North-W. 

North by West 

North 



These points are sub-divided into 
quarter points, and again into degrees. 
The table given on pages 142-143 shows 
the angles which every point and quar- 
ter point of the compass makes with the 
meridian : 



194 



BOAT SAILING. 



< 

O 
o 

o 

xn 
< 

M 
< 

p 
<^ 

xfl 

o 











piii 




W 






to 








^ 




^ 


xA 


xn 


^ 


















,8 


A 


W 


w 


w 


W 


W 


^ 


^ 


Q 

^ 


"3 

o 


X 


rO 


^* 


c/5 


c/i 


W 


W* 


IS 

<5. 


m 


c/5 


C/} 


c/i 


c/5 


CO 


a3 


c/5 








^' 




^* 






\> 








^ 




►^ 


"A 


^* 


1 




^* 


^* 


^ 


^* 


^' 


^ 


^ 




^ 


rO 


^ 


^ 


^" 


^" 


^ 




o 






, 




. 


. 






"^ 


"A 


^* 


iz; 


^' 


!2; 


^ 


izi 


to 

•1 




^^^ 


^^ 


:^ 


^^ 






^ 


o 


o o 


O M 


M M 


M M 


Cl <N 






i 


o 


vo O 


U-) C 


in O 


to O 


IT) O 


in O 


in O ^^ 




-^C^i 




Tt en 


M 


^cn 




'd- CO M 


i 


O oo r^O vr> 


CD Cl 


M o CO r^vo i^ 


CD W M 


t 




"^ en 


(N M 


to 


Tt CD 


l-l 


in Tj- 


CO CJ M 


% 


O 


c^ »riOO M 


rtO 


o c< 


vnoo 


O e^O O (N 


^ 






M 


M M 


M M 


M C^ 


CD CD 


CO CO Tt 


^ 
.^ 




N-^' 


:i^ 


V^ 


V 


N^NN 


\^ 


VN^V 






«\ w\ 


rO~-N 


«-^i-\ 


r<V\ 






•-iN'-Nf*Vs 


s: 


O 


o o 


O H 


M M 


M (N 


<N M 


CI CD 


CO CO CO 










^ 




^ 














^ 




-^ 


c/5 


Xfl 


1 


•4-> 





^ 

.o 


^ 

^ 


Xfl 


xfl 






cq 


o 






, 












(n 


rsi 


oi 


Xfl 


xn 


Xfl 


c/5 


XTl 


























w* 




w 






^1 

'g 

1 








^ 




^ 


^' 


"A 






W 
^ 


/2 












o 


















% 


12; 


^' 


"A 


^* 


"A 


A 


-A i 



THE COMPASS, 



195 



I 



W 



m 





w 


H 


H 




^.^ 










^ 


.q' 


^* 


W 


c/5 


c/i 


tn 




w 


w 


W 


W 


c/} 


rQ 


rQ 


^ 


4-» 

03 


m 


Jl 


If) 


C/2 


W 


W 


W 


w 


H 






^ :^ 



12; 









^^ 



^ 



'iii't^^ "^^^^ "i^"^^ "^"^^ 

■^ "nI" rj- in IT) Lo uoo O vO O t^ i^ t^ r^co 






T^COM rtcnw -^(TiM >^C<^M 

O oo N.VC1 >n <Ti (M M o oD r^o lo m M M o 









§ 






w 






w 












tn 



> m ^ m 









m 



0) 









w 



J96 BOAT SAILING. 

The mariner's compass does not, how- 
ever, give the true direction of the vari- 
ous points of the horizon. The needle 
points to the magnetic North and not to 
the true North, the difference between 
them being called the variation of the 
compass, which differs widely in various 
parts of the world, being sometimes 
easterly and sometimes westerly, and 
constantly changing. The amount is 
generally marked on the charts. In 
New York the variation for 1894 was 8° 
26' West, or three-quarters of a point to 
the West of the true North. Thus, to 
make good a true North course, the ves- 
sel would have to steer North three- 
quarters West. A rule easy to remember 
is that westerly variation is allowed to 
the left of the compass course, or beav 
ing, and that easterly variation is al 
lowed to the right of the compass course 
or bearing. 

To convert true courses and bearings 
into compass courses and bearings with 
variation westerly, allow it to the right 
of the true course or bearing, and with 
variation easterly allow it to the left of 
the true course or bearing. 

Deviation is another error of the com- 
pass caused by local attraction, such as 
the ironwork and iron ballast in a boat, 
or the proximity of a marlinespike to the 
binnacle. In a wooden boat, if proper 
care is taken, there should be no appre- 
ciable deviation of the compass. Devi- 
ation can be discovered by swinging the 
boat as she lies at her moorings, havmg 
first obtained the true magnetic bearing 



7 HE COMPASS, 197 

of some distant object, such as a light- 
house ov a church steeple. As the ves- 
sel's head comes to each point of the 
compass, a compass bearing is taken of 
the object, and the difference between 
that bearing and the true magnetic bear- 
ing is observed and noted, and after- 
ward tabulated. It will often be found 
that the deviation differs not only in 
amount, but in name, for different 
directions of the ship's head, being 
easterly at certain points and westerly 
at others. 

The rule is to allow westerly devi- 
ation to the left to get the correct mag- 
netic course, and easterly deviation to 
the right to get the correct magnetic 
course. 

To find out the error of the compass 
in order to steer a true course, the sum 
of the deviation and the variation when 
both are of the same name, and their 
dtfferejice when they have different 
names, must be ascertained. For in- 
stance, deviation 20^ West and variation 
25^ West, would give an error of compass 
j-5^ West, which should be applied to the 
left. 

If the deviation was 20^ East and the 
variation 10° West, the difference be- 
tween them would be lo"^ East, which 
compass error should be applied to the 
right to steer a true course. 

In order to find the compass course or 
course to steer, proceed as follows, the 
true course being North 40*^ East, the va- 
riation being 38^ West and the deviation 
18° East : 



BOAT SAILING, 

Variation, 38° W., being of contrary 
names, take their 
difference. 

Deviation, 18° E. 



Correction, 20°, apply to the right, be- 
ing westerly. 
True course N. 40° E. 



Compass course N. 60° E. 

Another example is given where the 
variation and deviation are both east- 
erly and the true course is S., 75^ West. 

Variation, 24° W., being of same name. 
Deviation, i^'' W., add together. 

Correction, 40°, apply to the left, being 
easterly. 
True course, S. 75° W. 

Compass course, S. 35° W. 

A volume might be written on the 
mariner's compass. It is a fascinating 
study, but unfortunately my space is 
limited. 

There is another correction to the 
compass that the amateur should have 
cognizance of. It is called leeway, and 
is, in untechnical language, the drift 
that the ship makes sideways through 
the water because of the force of the 
wind or the impulsive heave of the sea. 
Some craft, because of deficiency in the 
element of lateral resistance, such as in 
the case of a shallow, '' skimming-dish '' 
sort of a boat, with the centerboard 
hoisted up, will go to leeward like a 
crab. Others of a different type, such 
as the '^ plank-on-edge " variety, with a 
lead mine attached, will hang on to wind- 



THE COMPASS. 199 

TTard in a wonderful manner. It re- 
ijuires, therefore, a certain amount of 
judgment avS well as of knowledge in 
this particular section of nautical lore 
to be able to estimate with any degree 
of approximate certainty the leeway a 
vessel may happen to make. It should 
not be forgotten that build has much 
to do with this, and that trim and 
draught of water are also two powerful 
elements in this connection. For in- 
stance, a boat with outside lead and a 
centerboard in a strong breeze and a 
lumpy sea, so long as the wind permit- 
ted her to carry a commanding spread 
of sail, might make no appreciable lee- 
way, but, on the contrary, might ^* eat 
up " into the wind. But given the same 
boat without the lead and without the 
adventitious aid that the centerboard 
affords, she would be compelled to 
dowse her muslin at the first puff, and 
as a purely physical consequence she 
would retain no hold on the water and 
would drift off to leeward like an irre- 
sponsible she-crab. 

Thus leeway must be estimated by 
experience. It is often a most disturb- 
ing quantity, especially when the weath- 
er is foggy and the channel in which 
you are steering is perplexing on ac- 
count of rocks or shoals. I have al- 
ready expatiated on the wisdom of 
anchoring in such a contingency as this 
whenever the elements will permit. 
But, of course, one is a slave of the 
winds and the waves, and *' bringing- 
up " is not always possible. I should, 



200 BOAT SAILING. 

theiefore, advise the amateur to care- 
fully watcli his boat and endeavor to 
find out approximately the amount of 
leeway she makes when the first reef is 
taken in by comparing the direction of 
the fore and aft line of the boat with 
that of her wake. This method may 
also be pursued with advantage under 
all conditions of wind and weather, 
and by this means A, moderatel}^ correct 
and very useful table may be made. 

The old navigators like the Drakes 
and the P'robishers had this matter ar- 
ranged for them, so wheii they sailed 
forth on voyages of great emprise and 
portent they were guided by certain 
tabulated formula that gave them full 
and implicit directions for the allow- 
ance of leeway. Thus the skipper of a 
ship with topgallantsails furled was told 
to allow one point ; when under double- 
reefed topsails, one point and a half; 
when under close-reefed topsails, two 
points ; when the topsails are furled, 
three points and a half ; when the fore- 
course is furled, four points ; when under 
the mainsail only, five points ; when 
under the balanced mizzen or mizzen 
staysail, six points ; and when under 
bare poles, seven points. 

This antiquated method of computa- 
tion answered very well, for those ster- 
ling and sturdy navigators of the olden 
times seemed to have had a rare faculty 
of achieving their adventurous purpose 
and of gaining, too, both fame and for- 
tune. But the commander of a clipper 
ship, with whom I sailed as a youngster. 



THE COMPASS, 201 

undertook to demonstrate to me the ab- 
surdity of any such hard-and-fast rule. 
We had carried away our three topgal- 
lant masts, off Cape Aguthas, while 
threshing hard against a westerly gale. 
They were whipped out of us like pipe- 
stems. It took all hands a whole day to 
clear away the wreck. Next day the 
weather moderated sufficiently for us to 
have carried every stitch of canvas could 
we have set it. There were a number 
of vessels beating rortnd the Cape, and 
all took advantage of the cessation of 
the gale to spread all their flying kitec 
to the breeze. Our ship, under three 
topsails, inner and outer jibs, foresail, 
mainsail, crossjack, spanker, foretop- 
mast, maintopmast and mizzentopmast 
staysails, beat all the fleet. When it 
came on to blow again we were the first 
to reef, because some oCour rigging had 
got badly strained in the squall that took 
our topgallantmasts away. Still we 
maintained our lead, although jogging 
along comfortably while our opponents 
were driving at it, hugging their topgal- 
lantsails and with lee rails under. 

^' Now," said our captain, coming on 
the poop after he had worked up his 
dead reckoning at noontime, ^^3^ou see 
all those ships dead to leeward — well 
they ought to be to windward of us 
unless all the books on navigation are 
wrong. I have entered in my traverse- 
table the courses we were supposed 
to have made good under the old rule, 
and have thus proved its falsity. The 
fact is the ships that were turne 1 out in 



202 , BOAT SAILING. 

the days when these nautical axioms 
were first propounded were built by the 
mile and cut off in lengths to suit. 
They had no shape to speak of below 
the water-line, and perhaps the rule ap- 
plied to each alike. Times are different 
now, and leeway must be determined by 
the model of the ship." 

The rule for reckoning leeway is as 
follows : 

Wind on starboard side, allow leeway 
to the left. 

Wind on port side, allow leeway to the 
right. 

Or you may thus define it : 

Vessel on starboard tack, allow lee- 
way to the left. 

Vessel on port tack, allow leeway to 
the right. 

In this connection it might be well to 
urge the young mariner against keeping 
his boat all a-shiver and bucking 
against a head sea, and all the while 
sagging off bodily to leeward. It is bet- 
ter far to keep the wake right astern 
and keep way on the vessel — unless, of 
course, the weather is too violent. 

The direction and rate of tides and 
currents have also to be allowed for 
when correcting a compass , course. 
Thus in crossing Long Island Sound 
from Larchmont to Oyster Bay in thick 
weather, the magnetic course as given 
in the Government chart would have to 
be rectified and allowance made for the 
condition of the tide, whether ebb or 
flood, or your boat might never reach 
her destination. 



XVI. 
CHARTS. 

THERE are no better charted coasts 
in the world than those bounded 
by the North Atlantic and Pacific 
Oceans. The United States Navy 
has done and is doing magnificent hydro- 
graphic work. The charts issued by the 
Government are accurate, reliable, up- 
to-date and reasonable in price. 

The top of a chart when spread out 
in front of you so that the reading part 
appears to you like the page of a book, 
and you can read it from left to right, is 
the North, the bottom is the South, the 
side on your right is the East, and the 
side on your left is the West. There 
are always compasses on a chart, either 
true or magnetic, by reference to which 
and with the aid of the parallel rulers 
the bearing of one point from another 
may easily be ascertained by the fol- 
lowing method : 

Lay the edge of the rulers over the 
two places; then slide them (preserving 
the direction) till the edge of one ruler 
is on the center of the nearest compass; 
when this is done read off the course in- 
dicated by the direction of the ruler. 

To measure the distance between two 
places on the chart spread out the divid- 
ers till their points are over them, then 



204 BOAT SAILING. 

apply to the graduated scale at the bot- 
tom of the chart, which will give 3^ou the 
required distance. This method, it should 
be remembered, is only accurate when 
applied to the large coasting charts. 
When measuring distances on general 
charts which extend across many degrees 
of latitude, the mean latitude of the two 
places must be measured from. 

There are certain signs and abbrevia- 
tions used on charts which are easily 
comprehended, such as hrd for hard, rky 
for rocky, etc. Lighthouses and light- 
ships are clearly marked, and shoals, 
rocks and other obstructions to naviga- 
tion are plainly defined. All the mar- 
ginal notes on the charts should be 
made familiar by the navigator. I need 
scarcely say that charts, instruments 
and books of sailing instructions should 
be kept dry. There are cylindrical tin 
boxes for charts which are quite cheap, 
and these I recommend. 




A 

Fig. 6. 
The position of a vessel may be ascer- 
tained simply and accurately by cross- 
bearings. Suppose you are in a ship at 
a in Fig. 6. The point with the light- 



CHARTS. 205 

house on it bears correct magnetic N. by 
W., and the point with the tree on it E. 
by N. You lay the parallel rules over 
the compass on your chart at N, by W., 
and work them to the lighthouse, pre- 
serving the direction. You then draw 
the line from the lighthouse to a. You 
then lay the parallel rules over the com- 
pass on your chart at E. by N., and work 
them in a similar way to the tree. Then 
draw the line from the tree to a. The 
spot where the two lines cut was the 
vessel's position on the chart when the 
bearings were first taken. The distance 
of the ship from both lighthouse and 
tree can be measured by taking in the 
dividers the distance between either 
and the ship, and referring to the scale 
on the chart. 

It should be remembered that when 
sailing along the land cross-bearings 
will always determine your position, 
always allowing the proper corrections 
on the compass. In taking cross-bear- 
ings, try to have a difference between 
the two objects of as nearly ninety de- 
grees as possible. 

The old-fashioned log-ship and log- 
line for determining the distance run 
by a vessel need have no place in the 
equipment of a small yacht. There are 
several patent self-registering logs 
which record the distance run, either 
on the taffrail or on dials on the log 
itself. Their performance is fairly 
satisfactory, but they should be kept 
well oiled, and should be often exam- 



206 



BOAT SAILING, 



ined and tested — for instance, in a run 
between two objects whose distance 
apart is well known. 

By careful attention to the Lead, the 
Log and the Look-out, a boat may be 
navigated, by dead reckoning, with a 
certain amount of accuracy. 

A nautical mile, or knot, is the same 
as a geographical mile. Its length is 
six thousand and eighty feet. A statute 
mile in the United States measures five 
thousand two hundred and eighty feet. 





XVII. 
MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP. 

^ITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SPLICES 
KNOTS AND BENDS. 

'HE ama teui 
yachtsman 
should be able 
to make all the 
MARLiNESPiKE. spHccs and most of 

the knots in common use. This knowl- 
edge will come in quite handy when 
fitting out his craft in the spring, and 
will save him the expense of hiring a 
sailor to do the work. I have spent 
many happy hours in rigging a fifteen- 
ton cutter, doing all the work myself 
(except stepping the mast) with the aid 
of a boy. 

A few fathoms of rope, a marlinespike, 
a knife, a small pot of grease, a ball of 
spun yarn, another of marline and one 
of roping twine, and you are equipped 
for work. Splicing ropes and making 
fancy knots may be made a quite pleas- 
ant way of spending a winter's evening. 
It keeps one out of mischief, and the art 
once learned is rarely forgotten. I think 
if you follow my directions and take 
heed of the diagrams that accompany 
them (which I have taken pains to 
make as clear as possible) you will have 
no difhculty in becoming quite expert 
in the use of a marlinespike. 



208 



BOAT SAILING. 




The ends of all ropes, 
whether belonging to 
the running or standing 
rigging, must be whip- 
ped with tarred roping 
twine or they will un- 
ravel. Take the rope in your left hand 
and lap the twine round it very tight a 
dozen times, taking care that the end lies 
under the first turns so as to secure it. 
Then r lake a loop with the twine and con- 
tinue the lapping for four turns round the 
rope and the end of the twine, as shown 
above. Haul taut and cut off the end. 
Eye Splice — Un- 
lay the rope and 
lay the strands 
E, F, G at the 
proper distance 
upon the stand- 
ing part, as 
shown at A. Now 
push the strand H through the strand 
next to it, as shown in B, having first 
Opened it with a marlinespike. Strand I 
is then thrust over the part through 
which H was passed. Strand K is 
thrust through the third on the other 
side. Repeat the process with each 
strand, and then hammer the splice into 
shape with the butt of the marlinespike. 
vStretch and cut off the ends of the 
strands. If particular neatness is re- 
quired, the strands, after having been 
passed through the standing part the 
first time, should be halved and passed 
again, and then still further tapered by 
being quartered before being passed 




MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP. 209 



for the third and last time. An eye 
splice is useful. Standing rigging should 
have eyes spliced in to go over the 
mast-head, and for dead-eyes to be 
turned in, etc' 




Short Splice — Unlay the ends of two 
ropes of the same size and bring their 
ends together, as shown in Fig. i. 
the rope D and the strands A. 
C in the left hand. Pass the 
E over A and under C of rope 
haul taut. Pass strand G over 
under A. Pass strand F over 
strand next to it and under the 
end. Turn the rope round and 



Hold 
B and 
strand 
H and 
and 
the 
sec- 
treat 



B 



the other side in the same way, when 
the splice will be like Fig. 2. The single 
tucking of the strands will not, how- 
ever, be strong enough, and the process 
should be repeated on both sides, halv- 
ing the strands for the sake of neatness. 
This splice is used only for rope that is 
not required to run through a block. 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 

Long Splice — Unlay the ends of the 
two ropes that are "to be joined some 
two or three feet, according to the size 



210 BuAT SAILING, 

of the rope. Place the two ends to- 
gether, as shown in Fig. i. Unlay strand 
C and lead it back to A ; then take D 
and lay it up in the space left by C. 
Do this with the strands E and F on the 
opposite side. The rope will now look 
like Fig. 2. Give the two middle strands, 
G and H, a lick of tar if the rope is of 
hemp, and grease if of manilla, and 
knot them together with an overhand 
knot, taking care that the knot is so 
formed as to follow the lay of the 
rope. Then halve these strands and 
pass them over one strand and under 
two. Treat the remaining strands in 
the same way, after which stretch the 
rope well and cut off the ends of the 
strands. A long splice is the neatest 
way there is of putting two ends of a 
rope together. If well made it does 
not increase the diameter of the rope, 
and therefore renders through blocks 
as though it did not exist. If one 
strand of a rope is chafed through 
while the other two are sound, a new 
strand may be put in to replace it, and 
the ends may be finished off in the 
same way as in a long splice. 

Cut Splice — A cut 

splice is made the 

same as an eye 

splice, only with 

two ropes instead of one. 

Overhand Knot — It is 
used at the ends of ropes 
to prevent them from 
unreeving. There should always be 
one in the end of the mainsheet, which 




MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP, 211 




is difficult to reeve again in anything 
like a breeze. 

Reef Knot — It is always 
used to tie the reef points 
of a sail. First make an 
overhand knot and then 
pass the ends so that they take the same 
lay as the crossed parts of the overhand 
knot. If passed the other way, the knot 
will form what sailors call a granny, 
which will slip when it is subjected to 
a strain. 

Bowline Knot — Take the end 
(i) of the rope in the right 
hand and the standing part 
(2) in the left hand. Lay the 
end over the standing part 
and turn the left wrist so that 
the standing part forms a 
loop (4) enclosing the end. 
Next lead the end back of the standing 
part and above the loop, and bring the 
end down through the loop as shown. 
This is a very useful knot. 

Running Bowline — It is made 
by passing the end of a rope 
round its standing part and 
forming a bowline as in 
Fig. 8. 

Bowline on a Bight — To 
make it, double the rope and 
take the doubled end (i) in 
the right hand, the standing 
part (2) of the rope in the 
left hand. Lay the end over 
the standing part, and by 
turning the left wrist form 
a loop (3) having the end 






212 BOAT SAILING. 

inside. Next pull up enough of the end 
(i) to dip under the bight (4), bringing 
the end towards the right and dipping 
it under the bight, then passing it up to 
the left over the loop and hauling taut. 
Two Half Hitches — Pass 
the end of the rope round 
the standing part and bring 
it up through the bight. 
This makes a half hitch. Re- 
peat the process and haul 
taut. If the knot is to bear a great 
strain, seize the end back with spunyarn 
to the standing part. 

Timber Hitch — Pass 
the end of a rope 
round the spar, then 
round the standing 
part ^, then several times round its 
own part c against the lay of the rope. 
Gaff Topsail Halyard 
Bend — ^Pass two turns 
round the spar, then 
lead the end back 
round the standing 
part and underneath 
all the turns, bringing 
it round to its own part and back again 
over the two outer turns and under- 
neath the inner turn. 

Blackwall Hitch— "It is the 
simplest method known of 
making fast the end of a rope 
to the hook of a tackle. The 
figure is self-explanatory, the 
underneath part of the rope 
being jammed hard and fast by the 
strain on the hook. 





MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP. 218 





Common Bend — Make a 
bight with the end of one 
rope, and pass the end of 
the other through the bight 
from beneath, and round 
both parts with the end 
under its own standing 
part. The greater the 
strain, the faster will this bend jam. 

Magnus Hitch — Pass 
two round turns with 
the end of a rope over 
a spar, then take it be- 
fore the standing part, 
pass it again under the 
spar and up through 
the bight. 

Selvagee 
S T R o p — It is 
made by driv- 
ing two nails 
into a length of plank at a distance 
apart equal to the desired length of the 
strop. Make fast one end of a ball of 
spunyarn or knotted ropeyarns to one 
of the nails and pass it round the other, 
continuing the process until the strop 
is as thick as required. Marl it down 
with spunyarn and sew canvas or leather 
round it if intended for a block. 

Grommet Strop — It is 
made of a single strand 
of rope. To make it, lay 
one end over the other 
at the size required, and 
with the long end follow the lay round 
until a ring is formed with three parts 
of the strand all round, Finish by di- 





214 



BOAT SAILING, 



viding the ends, overhand knotting, and 
passing them over one strand and unaer 
the other exactly as in a long splice. 
To make a neat job, use a strand from 
rope that has been some time in use 
and is well stretched. The strand should 
be about a foot more than three times 
the length of the strop, to allow for the 
knotting. It may be wormed and cov- 
ered with canvas or leather if intended 
for a block. 




Fig. 19. Fig. 20. Fig. 21. Fig. 22. 

Figs. 19 and 20 show a Wall Knot. 
Unlay the end of a rope and with the 
strand A in Fig. 19 form a bight, hold it 
down at the side B, pass the end of 
the next strand C, round A, the end of 
strand D round C and through the bight 
of A. Haul taut and the knot is made 
as in Fig. 20. This can be crowned by 
taking strand in Fig. 21 and laying it 
over the top of the knot. Then lay B 
over A, and C over B and through the 
bight of A and haul taut. Fig. 22 shows 
a double wall and double crown, which 
is made by letting the ends follow their 
own parts round until all the parts 
appear double, first walling and then 
crowning. 




MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP, 215 

^ Matthew Walker Knot — 
Made by unlaying the end of 
a rope and taking the end A 
round the rope and through 
its own bight, the strand B 
underneath through the 
bight of A, and the strand 
C underneath through the bights of 
strands A and B, and hauling all the 
strands taut. This knot is used princi- 
pally for the ends of lan3^ards. In 
making these knots a whipping of sail- 
maker's twine should be put round the 
rope where the knot is to be when 
formed. 

This illus- 
;y^^YYXTTX tration shows 
the process of 
^A'^ worminga 

rope, which consists of winding spun- 
yarn of suitable size into the space 
between the strands with the lay of 
the rope, so as to make the rope smooth 
for parcelling. This must be done with 
the rope on the stretch. A shows the 
spunyarn. 

This illustration 
shows the process of 
parcelling and serv- 
ing. After the 
worming is finished 
wrap narrow strips of canvas — tarred, 
if the rope is of hemp, and painted if it 
is of wire — round the rope with the lay, 
secure the parcelling to the rope by 
marling it with twine, the rope can then 
be served against the lay. Lay the 
serving mallet B with its groove on the 




216 



BOAT SAILING, 



rope. Take a turn with the spunyarn 
round the rope and head of the mallet, 
round the side next you, and two turns 
on the other side and twist it round the 
handle. Get an assistant to pass the 
ball A round the rope while you heave 
round the mallet. The last half-dozen 
turns of the service must have the end 
of the spunyarn put through them and 
hauled taut to secure it. 




xvni. 

WEATHER ** WRINKLES" 

THE boat sailer or yachtsman should 
be able, from close observation of 
the barometer and the general 
appearance of the sky, to fore- 
tell the weather with a certain degree 
of accuracy. The aneroid barometer is 
peculiarly sensitive to all atmospheric 
changes, and is thus invaluable for 
meteorological forecasts. A regular 
code of phenomena has been formulated 
by meteorologists, from which I take 
the following : 

A rapid rise indicates unsettled 
weather. 

A gradual rise indicates settled 
weather. 

A rise with dry air and cold increas- 
ing in summer indicates wind from the 
northward, and if rain has fallen better 
weather may be expected. 

A rise with moist air and a low tem- 
perature indicates a continuance of fine 
weather. 

A rapid fall indicates stormy weather. 

A rapid fall with westerly wind indi- 
cates stormy weather from northward. 

A fall with northerly wind indicates 
storm with rain and hail in summer and 
snow in winter. 



218 BOAT SAILING. 

A fall with increased moisture in 
the air and increasing heat indicates 
southerly wind and rain. 

A fall after very calm and warm 
weather indicates rain and squalls. 

The barometer rises for a northerly 
wind, including from northwest by 
north to the eastward, for dry or less 
wet weather, for less wind, or for more 
than one of these changes, except on a 
few occasions when rain, hail or snow 
comes from the northward with strong 
wind. 

The barometer falls for a southerly 
wind, including from southeast by south 
to the westward, for wet weather, for 
stronger w4nd, or for more than one of 
these changes, except on a few occa- 
sions, when moderate wind, with rain or 
snow, comes from the northward. 

A fall, with a south wind, precedes 
rain. 

A sudden and considerable fall, with 
the wind due west, presages a violent 
storm from the north or northwest, dur- 
ing which the glass will rise to its former 
height. 

A steady and considerable fall of the 
barometer during an east wind indicates 
a shift of wind to the southward, unless 
a heavy fall of snow or rain immediately 
follows. 

A falling barometer, with the wind at 
north, brings bad weather ; in summer 
rain and gales; in spring snows and frosts. 

If, after a storm of wind and rain, the 
barometer remains steady at the point 
lo which it had fallen, severe weather 



WEATHER " wrinkles:' ^19 

may follow without a change in the 
wind. But on the rising of the barome- 
rer a change of wind may be looked for. 
The following rhymes are familiar to 
itiost sailors : 

When the glass falls low, 
Look out for a blow. 

First rise after low, 
Portends a stronger blow. 

When the glass is high, 
Let all your kites fly. 

Long foretold — long last ; 
Short notice — soon past. 

The following notes may be relied on 
for forecasting the weather : 

Red sky at sunset, fine weather. 

Red sky in the morning, wind or rain, and 
often both. 

Gray sky in the morning, fine weather. 

Hard, oily looking clouds, strong wind. 

Yellowish green clouds, wind and rain. 

Bright yellow sky at sunset, wind. 

Pale yellow sky at sunset, rain. 

Very clear atmosphere near the horizon is a 
sign of more wind and often rain. 

Here follow wSome old sailors' jingles 
which I heard v/hen a boy in the fore- 
castle : 

When rain comes before the wind, 
Sheets and halyards you must mind ; 
When wind comes before the rain, 
Hoist your topsails up again. 

Evening red and morning gray 
Are sure signs of a fine day ; 
But evening gray and morning red, 
Makes a sailor shake his head. 



220 BOAT SAILING. 

Amateurs while on a cruise should 
frequently look at the barometer and 
take notes of its height and enter them 
in the log". 

The action of the aneroid barometer 
depends on the effect produced by the 
pressure of the atmosphere on a circu- 
lar metallic chamber partially exhausted 
of air and hermetically sealed. This 
kind of barometer is liable to changes 
on account of its mechanism getting out 
of order, and it should be often com- 
pared with a mercurial barometer, 
which from its cumbersomeness cannot 
be conveniently carried in a small craft. 
Aneroid barometers of excellent quality, 
and of about the size of an ordinary 
watch, are offered for sale at a reason- 
able price, and a cruise should not be 
undertaken without one. 

A phosphorescent sea is a certain sign 
of continuance of fine weather. 

When porpoises come into shallow 
water and ascend the river stormy 
weather is near. 

Sea birds fly far out to sea in fine 
weather, but if they fly inland bad 
w^eather may be expected. 

A halo round the moon, especially if 
it appears distant and yet very distinct, 
indicates a gale of wind and probably 
rain. 

When the wind changes it usually 
shifts with the sun from left to right. 
Thus an East wind shifts to West by 
way of Southeast, South and Southwest, 
and a West wind shifts to East by way 
of Northwest, North and Northeast. If 



WEATHER - WRINKEESr 



221 



the wind shifts the opposite way it is 
said to ^^ back/* but this it rarely does 
except in unsettled weather. 

The United States Signal Service has 
a local observer stationed at each of the 
principal ports. When the ^informa- 
tion signal," which consists of a red 
pennant, is displayed, it indicates that 
information has been received from the 
central office of a storm covering a 
limited area, dangerous only for vessels 
about to sail to certain points. Ship- 
masters and others interested will be 
supplied with the necessary information 
on application. 

A cautionary signal, which is a Yellow 
Flag with a white center, indicates that 
the winds expected are not so violent 
that well found and seaworthy vessels 
cannot encounter them without great 
danger. A cautionary flag hoisted alone 
signifies that the direction of the ex- 
pected wind is doubtful. 






/unwinds. 3.W.Wind,^.'^jv:E:.wlnd$ ^^'^SJETwinoLs, 




CAUTIONARY SIGNALS. 



A dangerous storm signal, which is a 
Red Square Flag with black center, is 
hoisted when the wind is over thirty-five 
miles an hour. 

At night a Red Light indicates East- 



222 



BOAT SAILING. 



erly winds, and a Red and White Light 
Westerly winds. 






J/.Wy(in^s ^^MWind^s v.EV^z/ids ^^.E^Winds 




STORM SIGNALS. 

Following are the weather signals, 
which explain themselves: 




CLEAR OR LOCAL TEMPERATURE COLD WAVE. 

FAIR RAIN SIGNAL. 

WEATHER. OR 

SNOW. 

Beaufort's scale is used to measure 
the velocity of the wind. It is given 
below : 

Hourly Velocity 

in Miles. Scale. State. 

o calm. 

I I light airs. 

2 to 3 2 light breezes. 

4 to 7 3 gentle breeze. 

9 to 1 5 4 moderate breeze. 

15 to i8 5....... . .fresh breeze. 

19 to 22 6 strong breeze. 

23 to 28 7 moderate gale. 

28 to 40 8 fresh gale. 

40 to 48 9 strong gale. 

48 to 56 10 whole gale. 

57 to 80 II storm. 

80 to 100 12 hurricane. 



XIX. 
SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN. 

THOSE who go a-sailing for pleas- 
ure in small craft, frequently 
suffer hardships, or at least in- 
convenience, in the way of meals, 
because of their lack of knowledge of 
the provisions to take wdth them, and of 
simple methods of preparing whole- 
some and appetizing dishes. 

Sea cooking differs materially from 
shore cooking, inasmuch as the stove in 
a house is erected on a floor that is both 
stationary and stable. The yachtsman 




Fig. I. A Yachtsman's Stove, 



224 BOAT SAILING, 

who has a cosy galley with a fixed stove 
that burn coal or coke or charcoal, and 
that draws well, has reason to bless 
his fortunate stars. 

There have now come into vogue 
several varieties of the blue-flame 
wickless cooking stove. In the accom- 
panying illustration, Fig. i, I have de- 
picted a stove which I have found to 
suit. It is wickless and burns the or- 
dinary kerosene oil. To suit sea con- 
ditions the stove is slung on gimbals 
like a ship's compass, so as to yield to 
every motion of the vessel. The rail- 
ing round the top prevents pots and 
pans from sliding to leeward. Fig. 2 
shows the finest fry-pan ever invented 
for an oil stove, on which broiling is 
impracticable. It acts as a broiler or 
fryer at will. The raised bars prevent 
the steak or cutlet from being soddened 
with fat, the result being equal or nearly 
equal to a gridiron. If frying is re- 
quired put the necessary quantity of oil, 
butter or fat in the pan. Let it come 
to a boil, and then immerse in it the 
article, fish, flesh, fowl, reptile, or vege- 
table that you wish to cook. 

With a stove having only one lid or 
burner the sea-cook might often have 
some difficulty in keeping three uten- 
sils on the boil at once. Luckily inge- 
nuity has surmounted the obstacle, and 
Fig. 3 shows three stew-pans of small 
size that will fit over the burner of the 
stove shown in Fig. i. They are in the 
market, but it took me a long time to 
find out where thev are for sale. In one 



SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN. 225 



you may cook curry, in the second rice, 
while clam broth may simmer in the 
third. In good sooth a very cerberus of 
stew-pans ! 

Some sort of a contrivance for storing- 
ice so as to keep it solid as long as pos- 
sible is indispensable. Such a device is 
shown in Fig. 4. 

For sea picnics buy as many of the 
thin wooden plates (costing only a trifle) 
as you may require. 
These after being 
used may be thrown 
overboard. Take no 
crockery ware or 
china to sea in a 
small boat. Cups, 
saucers, plates and 
dishes can be ob- 
tained made of enam- 
eled steel. These are 
unbreakable and 
cleanly. Stew-pans, 
kettles, pitchers, 
coffee-pots and fry- 
pans are also made 
of enameled steel, 
and they cannot be 
surpassed. Cooks' furnishings depend 
on the size of the boat and the hands 
she carries. I suggest the following, but 
leave the sizes to the discretion of the 
purchaser who knows about how many 
mouths he has to feed: One kettle for 
boiling water for tea or coffee, one deep 
fry-pan, one iron pot with tight-fitting 
cover for boiling meat, fish or cooking 
chowder, one teapot, one coffee-pot. 




Fig. 2. 
The Ideal Fry-Pan. 



226 BOAT SAILING, 

a sotip ladle, a long iron two-pronged 
fork (known aboard ship as the cook's 
tormentors), two stew-pans for cooking 
vegetables, one broiler (if the imple- 
ment can be used), one cook's knife, one 
vegetable knife, one swab for washing 
pots, pans and, plates, and dish towels 
for drying them, soap, cups, plates,' dish- 
es, knives, forks, spoons, glasses, quant, 
suff. Do not forget a galvanized iron 
bucket for the cook, a can opener and a 
corkscrew. Also matches in an airtight 
can or glass. Fuel in either fluid or 
solid shape -should not be omitted. 

When we come to the question of the 
food supplies to be taken aboard, much 
will depend upon the individual. Hard 
tack, salt tack, flour, beans, corned beef, 
salt pork, bacon, hams, canned meats, 
sardines, canned fruits and vegetables, 
cornmeal, lard, butter, cheese, condensed 
milk, sweetened and unsweetened coffee, 
tea, cocoa, chocolate, pepper, salt, mus- 
tard, vinegar, poultry seasoning, sugar 
and rice are some of the staple comes- 
tibles that suggest themselves, but these 
i;aay be added to or subtracted from 
according to circumstances. 

A ham is one of the most easily pro- 
cured comestibles. Pick out a small 
one, not too fat. If you want it tough 
as leather, boil it furiously for a couple 
of hours, then haul it out of the pot and 
eat it. If you want a delicate, tender and 
juicy ham soak it in a bucket of fresh 
water for twelve hours. Then scrape 
it well and pop it into a big pot full of 
cold fresh water. Let it come slowly to 



SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN. 227 

the boil. As soon as the water reaches 
the boiling stage, regulate the heat so 
that a gentle simmering, the faintest 
possible ebullition is kept up for five or 
six hours, according to the size of the 
joint. Then take it out of the pot and 
skin it. The rmd will come off as easily 
as an old shoe. Then return meat to the 
water in which it was boiled and let it 
remain until it is quite cold. Next dish 
it, drain it and put it in the ice box to 




Fig. 3. A Nest of Stew-pans. 

harden. Cut in very thin slices with a 
sharp knife, and you will admit that 
cooked after this scientific formula ham 
is mighty fine eating. 

Corned beef cooked after this same 
fashion will also be a success. The 
secret is a simple one of chemistry. 
Hard boiling hardens the fibers and 
tears the meat to rags. Gentle simmer- 
ing softens the meat while allowing it to 
retain its juices. 

The navy bean at present in use, 



228 BOAT SAILING. 

though much may be said in its praise, 
is far inferior to the lima bean. This 
legume if substituted for the insignifi- 
cant (by comparison only) little bean 
on which Boston breakfasts every Sab- 
bath morn will be found so palatable 
that the lesser variety will never again 
be used. Procure a quart of lima beans. 
Pick out all that are shriveled or discol- 
ored. Soak the rest all night in plenty 
of cold fresh water and in the morning 
you will find them plump and tender. 
Wash them well and place them in a 
pot on the fire with a square piece of 
salt pork weighing three-quarters of a 
pound ; simmer them gently till they are 
tender, but not till they reach the por- 
ridge stage. On the contrary, let each 
bean be separate like the soft and swell- 
mg grains of well-cooked rice. Strain 
through a colander, saving a pint of the 
water in which they were boiled. Pack 
in the bean pot. Bury the chunk of 
pork in the beans. Season the pint of 
water reserved as mentioned above, to 
your liking. Pour over the beans in the 
pot and put in the oven to bake. The 
flavoring of beans depends upon the 
taste of the cook. 

Sirloin steaks are a good staple viand. 
Make the butcher cut them not less than 
two inches thick. If you cannot grill 
them heat your fry-pan almost red-hot. 
Put no fat in the pan. Place your steak 
cut into convenient chunks into the hot 
pan. Let one side sear for a minute or 
so to keep in the juices. Then turn meat 
over. It will be cooked sufficiently for 



SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN. 229 



most palates in five or six minutes. 
Place on a piping hot platter, spread 
some fresh butter on the steak, sprinkle 
with pepper, and pipe to grub. Chops 
may be cooked in the same way. 

Meat may be roasted in an iron pot if 
the cook has no oven. Moderate heat, 
continuous care to prevent burning, and 
frequent basting are the three requisites 
of a successful pot roast. 

So far as beverages are concerned, 
useful hints in 
that direction are 
given in Fig. 5, 
which shows a 
picturesque and 
shipshape vessel 
to carry when 
a-cruising. 

There is no 
daintier dish than 
a fresh, fat lob- 
ster, generous 
and juicy, just 
hauled from the 
pot in which he 
was caught. Pick 
out a particularly 
lively specimen of medium size but 
heavy. The cock lobster may be dis- 
tinguished from the hen by the narrow- 
ness of the tail, the upper two fins of 
which are stiff and hard, while the tail 
of the hen is broader and the fins soft. 
The male has the higher flavor ; the 
flesh, too, is firmer and the color when 
boiled is a deeper red. The hen is well 
adapted for lobster a la Newburg, but 




Fig. 4. Ice Tub. 



230 BOAT SAILING, 

for eating on the half-shell a male in 
prime condition is far preferable. 

The secret of cooking lobsters is to 
plunge them into a pot of furiously 
boiling sea water, and to keep the water 
in a condition of fast ebullition for just 
twenty minutes. Fresh water to which 
salt is added will not do so well. Salt 
water fresh from the ocean is indispen- 
sable. It brings out the correct flavor 
and imparts an indefinable zest to the 
lobster. Hard-shell crabs may be boiled 
in the same way, but ten minutes will 
be ample time. 

All fresh vegetables are, in the opinion 
of the writer, improved in flavor by 
cooking them in sea water fresh from 
the ocean, not from a harbor contam- 
inated by noxious influences from the 
shore. All vegetables should be im- 
mersed in boiling water and cooked till 
done. Potatoes will take about half an 
hour to boil, but cabbages, carrots and 
turnips much longer. I should not ad- 
vise the cooking of the last-named three 
esculents aboard a small craft. Canned 
asparagus, French peas and string beans 
take little time to prepare and are ex- 
cellent if a reliable brand is purchased. 
Open the can, drain off the liquid and 
throw it away. Wash the vegetables, 
strain the water off, place in a stew-pan 
with a lump of butter, and heat thor- 
oughly. The liquid of canned vegeta- 
bles is unfit for human food. 

Hard clams or quahaugs are plentiful 
at any port during the boating sea- 
son. The recuperative qualities of the 



SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN. 231 



small variety served ice-cold on the 
half shell with a dash of Tabasco sauce 
and no other seasoning are beyond 
praise. Now while the little clam is 
excellent eating- just as soon as opened 
from the shell, taking care to waste 
none of his precious juices, his elder 
brother also has inestimable gastro- 
nomic values. 

The easiest and simplest method of 
preparing 
clam broth 
is to scrub 
the clams 
well and 
w^ash them 
in several 
waters. Put 
them in an 
iron pot, 
without any 
water or 
liquid. Let 
them re — 
main on the 
fire for 
twenty min- 
utes. Then 
strain the 

juice, into which put a little fresh but- 
ter, a small quantity of milk, and a dash 
of red pepper. Drink while hot. 

Never add water to clam broth, and 
never let it boil after the milk is 
added, as it will curdle nine times out 
of ten. 

To make clam soup, clean the clams 
as for broth. Place them in an iron 




Fig, 5. A Traveling Companion. 



232 BOAT SAILING. 

pot on the stove. As soon as they open 
take them out of their shells and chop 
very fine. A hardwood bowl and a 
two-blade chopping* knife are the best 
apparatus for this job. Strain the clam 
liquor, return to the pot, add minced 
onions to taste and the chopped clams ; 
simmer gently for one hour, thicken to 
taste with cracker dust, season with 
sweet herbs and pepper ; let boil fast 
for ten minutes, take off the stove and 
add some hot milk and a lump of fresh 
butter. Serve. 

Clam chowder is an old sea dish 
whose popularity seems likely never to 
w^ane. It is a simple dish to prepare, 
although many cooks make a mystery 
of it. Cut half a pound of streaky salt 
pork into small cubes. Fry in an iron 
pot together with half a dozen medium- 
sized sliced onions until they are a light 
brown. Chop fifty hard-shell clams 
fine. Peel and slice thin a dozen larg-e 
raw potatoes. Break up four sea bis- 
cuits and soak till soft in cold water or 
milk. Scald and peel and slice six ripe 
and juicy tomatoes. Put these ingredi- 
ents into the pot in layers, pour over 
them the strained juice ot the clams. 
Season with red and black pepper, 
sauces and herbs to taste. Cover an 
inch with hot fresh water and simmer 
for three hours. A pint of sound Cal- 
ifornia claret added just before serving 
is an improvement. An old hen makes 
tip-top chowder cooked in the same 
fashion. 

Fish chow^der may be prepared in a 



SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN. 238 

similar way. Cod, haddock, sea bass 
and bluefish are good made into a 
chowder. 

The soft-shell clam makes a delicate 
stew or broth. The tough parts should 
be rejected from the chopping bowl. 
Boiled for twenty minutes and eaten 
from the shell with a little butter and 
pepper they are also very appetizing. 
A big potful soon disappears. 

There is no excuse for the yachtsman 
neglecting to enjoy the delights of fish 
fresh from the sea. Fishing tackle 
should always be carried. Bluefish and 
mackerel maybe caught by trolling; and 
if you have fisherman's luck, once in a 
blue moon a Spanish mackerel may fall 
to your lot. If so, that day must be 
marked by a white stone, for a Span- 
ish mackerel transferred in about two 
shakes of a lamb's tail from the fish-hook 
to the fry-pan, or better still, if your 
arrangements permit, to the gridiron or 
broiler, is good enough for the gods to 
feed on. Two axioms should be borne 
in mind, namely, to fry in plenty of 
boiling fat or to plunge into boiling 
water. Never humiliate a fish by plac- 
ing him in a cold fry-pan or into a 
cooking pot of cold water. 

Before frying fish dip m well-beaten 
^%g and then sprinkle with bread 
crumbs or cracker dust, dip in ^'g^g 
again, and then add more bread crumbs 
or cracker dust. This is for epicures. 
For ordinary seafarers if the fish is 
rolled in yellow cornmeal without the 
^Rg" t^^ result will be nearly the same. 



234 BOAT SAILING, 

Cut up large fish into suitable sizes, but 
fry small fish whole. 

Soft-shell crabs should be cooked in 
boiling fat. When brown they are done. 
Ten minutes is usually enough to cook 
them thoroughly. 

Always when you boil fish of any 
kind indigenous to salt water or fresh 
put them in boiling water either from 
the sea or fresh water well salted. A 
little vinegar added is good. A two- 
pound fish should cook sufficiently in 
fifteen or at most twenty minutes. Fish 
with white flesh take longer to boil 
than those with dark. 

An excellent sauce for boiled fish 
may be made thus : Put a piece of 
butter as big as an ^%^ in a saucepan or 
a tomato can ; heat till it bubbles, add 
a heaping tablespoonful of flour, stir till 
quite smooth ; pour slowly into this, 
stirring continually, a pint of the water 
the fish was cooked in, and add two 
hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. This 
may be flavored with anchovy sauce or 
a few drops of Harvey or Worcester- 
shire. Some prefer the addition of a 
little lemon juice or even vinegar. 
Every man to his taste ! 

When a very little boy I sailed in the 
Derwent, a small schooner engaged in 
carying bottles from Sunderland to 
London. The bottles were taken in 
from the factory where they were 
made, stowed in the hold of the 
schooner and transported to a wharf at 
Wapping. Bottles are a clean kind of 
freight, and our skipper being a very 



SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN. 285 

particular kind of a man the Derwent 
was kept as bright as a new pin outside 
and inside, alow and aloft. On this 
dashing little vessel I was cook and 
cabin boy. There was no regular gal- 
ley on deck, simply an iron cooking 
stove erected on the foreside of the 
mainmast ; and on that in storm and 
calm I boiled and baked for a crew of 
four for more than a year — in fact till I 
quit the coasting trade and signed away 
foreign. My skipper took me under 
his special guidance. The grub had to 
be well cooked and the deck kept spot- 
less or I used to suffer. Skipper and 
mate were epicures after a fashion, so I 
had to keep my weather eye open. 

My experience in merchant vessels 
and pleasure craft has fitted me to 
write with some small assumption of 
authority on the subject of sea cooking. 

Some of my methods may seem queer 
and perhaps grotesque, but condemn 
them not till you have tested them in 
the crucible of experiment. 



XX. 

NAUTICAL TERMS IN COMMON USE, 

Aback — A sail's condition when the 
sheet is to windward and it drives the 
vessel astern. 

Abaft — The position toward the stern 
of any object or point such as "abaft 
the mast" or "abaft the binnacle." 

Afore — The contrary of abaft. 

Ahoy ! — An interjection used in hail- 
ing a vessel, such as " Vigilant ahoy !" 

Athwart — Across the keel. 

Atrip — When the anchor is broken 
out of the ground. 

Avast — Stop, discontinue. As " avast 
hauling " (stop hauling). 

Balance reef — A diagonal reef in a 
fore-and-aft sail extending from throat 
to clew. 

Batten down — Covering hatches with 
tarpaulins and securing them with 
battens. 

Beam ends — A vessel is said to be on 
her beam ends when knocked down by 
a squall to an angle of about 45 degrees. 

Belay — To make fast a rope or fall of 
a tackle. 

Below — Greenhorns call it " down- 
stairs " and seamen laugh at them. 

Bight — A loop of a rope. 

Bilge — The round in a vessel's tim- 
bers where they turn from her sides 
toward the keel. 



^OAT SAILING. 2^1 

Binnacle — A case in which the com- 
pass is contained. 

Block and block— When the blocks 
of a tackle are hauled close together. 

Bolt rope — The rope sewn round the 
edges of sails. It is made of the best 
hemp. 

Bonnet — An extra piece of canvas 
laced to the foot of a jib or foresail, 
taken off when it blows hard. 

Box the compass — To call over the 
points of the compass in correct order. 

Break off — When a vessel sailing 
close-hauled is headed by the wind and 
is unable to lay the course she was 
steering. 

Bring up — To anchor. 

Broach to — ^To come to against wind 
and helm. 

Capsize — To turn over. 

Carvel built — Constructed w^ith the 
planks flush edge to edge and the seams 
caulked and payed. 

Caulking — Driving oakum into the 
seams of a vessel w4th a mallet and a 
blunt chisel called a caulking iron. 

Clews — The lower corners of square 
sails ; the lower after-corners of fore- 
and-aft sails. 

Clinch — To fasten a rope by a half 
hitch and then seize the end back to the 
standing part. 

Close-hauled — Hauled as close to the 
wind as the sails will permit without 
shaking their luffs. A cutter-rigged 
yacht with well-cut canvas should lie 
within four and a quarter points of the 
wind. Some modern racing craft have 



238 Nautical Tcrins i7i Cojnnion Use, 

done half a point better than this 
Square-rigged vessels cannot head 
better than five and a-half points of the 
wind. 

Collar — An eye spliced in a shroud or 
stay to go over the masthead. 

Comber — A big wave. 

Companion — The entrance from the 
deck to the cabin below. 

Compass bowl — The bowl in the bin- 
nacle that contains the compass. 

Corinthian — A term in yachting pos- 
sessing the same significance as ama- 
teur ; the opposite of professional. 

Counter — That part of a vessel which 
projects abaft the sternpost. 

Covering board — The outside deck 
plank fitted over the timber heads. The 
same as planksheer. 

Cracking on — Carrying a press of sail. 

Crank — Not stiff under canvas ; easily 
heeled or listed. 

Cranze or Cranse — A metal band with 
eyes on it fitted to the end of a bowsprit 
or other spar. 

Cringle — A metal thimble worked in 
the clews and leeches of sails. 

Dandy — A cutter-rigged vessel w4th 
lug-mizzen set on a jigger-mast. 

Davits— Iron cranes on vessels to 
which boats are hoisted. 

Deadeye — A circular wooden block 
with three holes in it without sheaves, 
through which a lanyard is rove to set 
up standing rigging. 

Dead wood — Solid wood worked on 
top of the keel forward and aft. 

Depth of hold — The height between 



BOAT SAILING. 239 

the keelson and the deck of a single- 
decked vessel. 

Displacement — The quantity of water 
displaced by a vessel, which in weight 
is always equal to her own weight. 

Dogvane — A light vane made of bunt- 
ing or feathers to show the direction of 
the wind. 

Dowse — To lower a sail suddenly. 

Down-haul — A rope by which a sail is 
hauled down. 

Draught of water — The depth of a 
vessel measured from the under side of 
the keel to the load water-line. 

Earrings — Ropes for fastening the 
corners of the heads of sails to yards and 
for reefing. 

Ease off — To slacken a rope hand- 
somely. 

Eyelet holes — Small holes worked in 
sails for lacings or lashings to be rove 
through. 

Eyes of the rigging — Collars spliced 
in the ends of shrouds to go over the 
masthead and also over the deadeyes. 

Fair leaders — Holes in planks, etc., for 
ropes to be rove through so that they 
lead fairly^. 

Fair wind — A wind that permits a ves- 
sel to steer her course without tacking. 

Fall — The hauling part of the rope of 
a tackle. 

False keel — A timber bolted to the 
under side of the keel proper. 

Fathom — A sea measure of six feet. 

Fender — A species of buffer made of 
wood, rope or other material to hang 
over a vessel's side to prevent her from 



240 Nautical Terms in Com7non Use, 

chafing against a dock, or another 
vessel. 

Fid — An iron or wooden bar to keep 
bowsprits and topmasts in place ; a 
conical wooden instrument used by rig- 
gers and sailmakers. 

Fish, To — To strengthen a weak or 
repair a broken spar by lashing another 
spar or batten to it. 

Flare — To project outwards ; contrary 
to tumbling home. 

Flat aft — When sheets are trimmed as 
close as possible for effective windward 
work. 

Floors— The bottom timbers of a ves- 
sel. 

Flowing sheet — The sheet eased off to 
a fair wind. 

Flush decked — Having neither poop 
nor forecastle. 

Foot — The lower edge of a sail. 

Forereach — To s^il faster through the 
water on a wind than another vessel. 

Freeboard — That part of a ship's side 
above the water. 

Full and by — To steer as close to the 
wind as possilole, while at the same time 
keeping the sails full of wind. 

Futtocks — The timbers which join 
and butt above the floors, called first, 
second and third futtocks. 

Gammon iron — An iron hoop fitted 
to the side of the stem, or on top of 
the vStem, to receive and hold the bow- 
sprit. 

Garboard — The strake of plank next 
above the keel, into which it is rab- 
beted and bolted. 



BOAT SAILING. 241 

Gripe, To — A vessel gripes when she 
has a tendency to come up in the 
wind and requires much weather helm. 

Gudgeons — Metal straps with eyes 
secured to the stern post, into which 
the pintles of the rudder are fitted. 

Gunwale — The timber fitted over the 
timber heads and fastened to the top 
strake. 

Guys — Ropes used to steady a spar or 
other thing. 

Gybe — To let a fore-and-aft sail shift 
from one side to the other when run- 
ning before the wind. To let a vessel 
go so much ofE the wind as to bring the 
wind on the opposite quarter. 

Half-mast high — When a flag is hoist- 
ed halfway up as a mark of respect to a 
person recently dead. 

Halyards — Ropes for hoisting sails. 

Handsomely — Steadily ; carefully. 

Handy billy — A watch tackle kept on 
deck for getting a pull on sheets or hal- 
yards. 

Hanks — Rings or hooks for fastening 
the luffs of sails to stays. 

Hard down — The order to put the 
tiller a-lee. Hard up, the order to put 
the tiller a-weather. 

Heave to — To so trim a vessel's sails 
that she does not move ahead. 

Heel rope — The rope by which a run- 
ning bowsprit is hauled out or a top- 
mast lowered. 

Hoist — The length of the luff of a fore- 
and-aft sail. 

Horns — The projections forming the 
jaws of gaffs or booms. 



242 Nautical Terms in Cominon Use, 

Hounds — The projections on a mast 
that support the lower cap and rigging. 

House — To lower a topmast down 
within the cap. 

Inhaul — The rope used to haul sails 
inboard. 

In irons — The condition of a vessel 
head to wind and with way lost, unable 
to pay off on one tack or the other. 

Irish pennants — Loose ropes flying in 
the breeze or dangling over the side. 

Jackstay — A rod of iron, a wooden 
cleating, or a wire rope for sails or yards 
to travel on ; also a wire rope on the 
main boom to which the foot of the 
sail is laced. 

Jiggermast — The mizzenmast of a 
yawl or dandy. 

Kentledge — Pig iron used as ballast. 

Lanyards — Ropes rove through dead- 
eyes by which shrouds or stays are set up. 

Leeboard — An old-fashioned contriv- 
ance to check leeway, still in use on 
some Dutch vessels and English barges. 

Load water-line — The line of flota- 
tion when a vessel is properly ballasted 
or laden. 

Luff — To come closer to the wind. 

Make fast — To belay a rope. 

Masthead — That part of the mast 
above the hounds. 

Mast hoops — The hoops to which the 
luffs of fore and aft sails are seized to 
secure the sails to the masts. 

Miss stays, To — To fail in an attempt 
to tack. 

Mousing — A yarn wound round a hook 
to prevent it from becoming unhooked. 



BOAT SAILING, 243 

Near — Very close to the wind. 

Nip — To nip a vessel is to sail her too 
close to the wind. 

On a wind — Closehauled. 

Outhaul — A rope or tackle by which 
a sail is hauled out on a spar. 

Paddy's hurricane — A dead calm. 

Painter — A rope spliced to a ring bolt 
in the bow of a boat to make fast by. 

Pay — To pour hot pitch or marine 
g-lue into seams after they are caulked. 

Pintles — The metal hooks by which 
rudders are attached to the gudgeons. 

Pole mast — A mast without a top- 
mast, but with a long masthead above 
the hounds. 

Put about — To tack. 

Raffee — A square or triangular sail set 
flying on the foretopmasts of schooners. 

Rake — To incline forward or aft from 
the vertical, as raking mast, a raking 
sternpost, etc. 

Reef band — A strip of canvas sewn 
across a sail, in which eyelet holes for 
the reef points are worked. 

Reef pendant — A strong rope with a 
Matthew Walker knot in one end. It is 
passed up through a hole in the cleat 
on the boom, and then through the reef 
cringle in the sail and down through the 
hole in the cleat on the other side of the 
boom. 

Reef points — Short lengths of rope in 
sails to tie up the part rolled up when 
reefing. 

Reeve — To pass a rope through a 
block or a hole of any kind. 



244 Nautical Terms in Common Use. 

Roach — The curved part of the foot 
of a sail. 

Rockered keel — A keel whose ends 
curve upward. 

Running bowsprit — A bowsprit so 
fitted as to run in or out and reef. 

Serve — To cover a rope with spun- 
3^arn. 

Shake out a reef — To untie the reef 
points and set the sail. 

Sheathing— The copper or other metal 
nailed on the bottom of a vessel. 

vSheave — The grooved wheel in a block 
or in the sheave hole of a spar over 
which the rope passes. 

Sheet — The rope by which the clew 
of a sail is secured, 

Snotter — An eye strop used to support 
the heel of a sprit. 

Spitfire jib — The smallest storm jib. 

raunt — Tall, high. 

Taut— Tight. 

Tie up — A lubber's synonym for moor. 
You tie up a dog. You moor a vessel. 

Thimble — A heart shaped or circular 
ring" with a groove outside for ropes to 
fit in. They are used for the eye splices 
in ropes, the straps of blocks and for the 
cringles in sails. 

Thwc^rts — The transverse seats in 
boats. 

Tumble home — When the sides of a 
vessel near the deck incline inward the 
opposite to flaring. 

Tyers — Ropes that secure a mainsail 
when stowed. 

Unbend — To cast loose a sail from 
stay, gaff, boom or yard. 



BOAT SAILING. 



24a 



Veer — To pay out chain. 

Wear — To bring the wind on the other 
side of a vessel by turning her head from 
the wind. The reverse of tacking. 

Weather gauge — The condition of a 
vessel that is to windward of another. 

Weather helm — A vessel is said to 
carry weather helm when she has a ten- 
dency to fly up in the wind. 

Weathering — If one vessel eats to 
windward of another, she is said to 
weather on her. Weathering an object 
is passing it on the windward side. 

Whip, To — To bind the end of a rope 
with twine to prevent it from unlaying. 

Yaw — A vessel yaws when her head 
flies from one direction to the other; as, 
for instance, when her helmsman is un- 
able to keep her steady on her course. 

Yawl — A cutter-rigged vessel with a 
mizzenmast stepped in her counter. • 




246 



THE SLOOP YACHT, 




THE SLOOP YACHT. 
Names of Spars^ RigS^f^St Sails^ Etc. 



1 Jib Topsail. 

2 Club Topsail Sprit. 

3 Topsail Club. 

4 Club Topsail Guy. 

5 Jib. 

6 Club Topsail. 

7 Mainsail. 

8 Bowsprit. 

9 Club Topsail Tack Line, 
lo Mainsheet. 

n Foresail or Forestaysail 
Sheet. 

12 Jib Topsail Sheet. 

13 Topping Lift. 

14 Gaff Topsail, Clewed 

Down. 

15 Tack of Jib. 

16 Tack of Jib Topsail. 

17 Luff of Jib Topsail. 
%% Head of Jib Topsail. 



19 Jib Topsail Halyards. 

20 Leach of Jib Topsail. 

21 Main Gaff. 

22 Main Boom. 

23 Main Topmast. 

24 Foot of Jib. 

25 Leach of Jib. 

26 Clew of Jib. 

27 Reef Points. 

28 Tack of Mainsail. 

29 Clew of Mainsail. 

30 Peak of Mainsail. 

31 Throat of Mainsail. 

32 Main Crosstrees. 

33 Masthead Runner ani 

Tackle. 

34 Head of Club TopsaiL 

35 Clew of Club Topsail, 

36 Tack of Club TopsaiL 

37 '^opmast Shrouds, 



BOAT SAILING. 



247 




THE CUTTER YACHT. 

Names of Spars ^ Sails^ Standing and Running Rigging,, Etc. 
SPARS. 



1 Lowermast. 

2 Topmast. 

3 Bowsprit. 

4 Main Boom. 



5 Gaff. 

6 Topsail Sprit. 

7 Spinnaker Boom. 

8 Tiller. 



RIGGING AND 

9 Crosstrees. ig 

lo Shrouds. 20 

n Topmast Shrouds. 

12 Topping Lift. 

13 Masthead Runner and 

Tackle. 

14 Forestay. 

15 Topmast Stay. 

16 Bobstay. 

17 Bobstay Fall. 

18 Spinnaker Boom Top- 

ping Lift. 



23 
24 

25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 

SAILS. 



ROPES. 

Spinnaker Boom Brace. 

Topmast Backstay, 

Reef Pennant. 

Truck. 

Ensign. 

Channels. 

Mainsheet. 

Spinnaker Boom Guy. 

Clev/ of Sprit Topsail. 

Tack of Sprit Topsail. 

Tack Line or Pendant. 

Sprit Topsail Halyards. 



^r- 



iprit Topsail. 
Mainsail. 



D Foresail. 
E Jib Topsail. 



248 

ADDENDA. 

RECENT CHANCiES IN SAIL I'LAN AND RIG OF 
MODERN CRAFT. 

SINCE the first edition of this book 
was printed, yacht desio;-ners have 
studied to reduce weight aloft. 
This has not infrequently resulted 
in fitting ironwork blocks, etc., far too 
iiimsy to endure the strain of a stiff 
breeze. There is always a happy medium 
between spider-web rigging and rigging 
uselessly heavy and clumsy, and my ad- 
vice therefore is not to go to extremes. 
In racing craft on the fresh-water lakes 
piano wire has been used for standing 
rigging, and because of its enormous 
strength and notable lightness has an- 
swered well enough. In salt water, how- 
ever, it should be avoided because of its 
liability to corrosion. 

The principal changes in rig of late 
years follow : The substitution of turn- 
buckles and rigging screws for the old- 
fashioned dead eyes and lanyards ; the 
reduction of the length cf the bowsprit 
because of the long overhang forward, 
which has done away with the reefing 
bowsprit on all modern craft ; the in- 
vention of masthead shrouds, bridles on 
gaffs, and the throat halyard pennant. 
By means of the three devices men- 
tioned, strains aloft are both minimized 
and equalized. Large vessels carry 
double masthead shrouds, and every 
racing yacht is fitted with single ones. 
Gaff bridles and throat halyard pen- 
nants are also considered to be well- 
nigh indispensable. 

In the matter of running rigging, 
flexible steel wire is now much used for 



BOAT SAILING. 



250 



BOAT SAILING. 



< 
w 

O 



o 




m 

2 



ADDENDA. 251 

throat and peak halyards. Its advantage 
is that there is little or no *^^ give " to it. 
The rig of a modern 25 -foot water-line 
sloop with a pole mast is as follows : 
Bobstay-rod of steel ^-inch in diameter, 
set up with a turnbuckle at the end of the 
bowsprit; shrouds, two each side, i^- 
inch steel wire ; forestay set up to stem 
head, i J^-inch steel wire ; jib set flying, 
hoisted with ^-inch 8-stranded flexible 
steel-wire halyards, set up with a jig- 
purchase ; runner-shrouds of ^-inch 
wire canvased over ; main lifts ^-inch 
flexible steel wire, parcelled, sewed over 
with white codline and then covered 
with white canvas sewn on. The throat 
and peak halyards are of ^-inch flexible 
steel wire. The blocks are all strapped 
with grommets of flexible steel wire 
sewed and leathered. 

Steel wire is now also used for the 
leech ropes of racing sails, and is em- 
ployed largely in the lower canvas of all 
the big racing yachts. Flexible steel 
wire is nearly as pliable as new hemp 
rope of the same strength. The greater 
the diameter of the sheaves over which 
it passes the longer it will last. This wire 
cannot be belayed to a cleat. Therefore, 
Manila rope is spliced to the hauling end 
of the wire, which insures its remaining 
fast after once being belayed. This is a 
most difficult splice to make. 

The accompanying illustrations show 
the sail plans and rigs of a modern 
schooner and a modern yawl. When 
compared with the sloop and cutter 
rigs on pages 211 and 212, it will be 
easily seen that many radical changes 
have been made. 



252 ADDENDA, 

It occurred to me in revising the book 
for this edition, that it might be wise to 
omit the directions for rigging a run- 
ning bowsprit, bending a loose-footed 
mainsail, and some other devices which 
in the light of modern improvements 
might be deemed either archaic or ob- 
solete. On second thoughts, however, 
I decided to let them stand as written. 
There is still a goodly fleet of "old- 
timers," cutters and yawls with straight 
stems and reefing bowsprits — craft some 
of them half a century old or more, and 
sound as a gold dollar in spite of severe 
service. The deadeye and the lanyard, 
although being pushed hard by the 
turnbuckle, die slowly, and are yet to 
be foxmd in brand new vessels of the 
twentieth century. 

To equalize and minimize strains on 
mainbooms, mainsheet bridles are now 
fitted. Overhangs are growing longer 
and longer and bowsprits shorter. The 
Larchmont one-design class of 1901 has 
a length on deck of 40 feet 7 inches, 
with a water-line length of 25 feet. 
The sail area is 1,103 feet, and the out 
side ballast weighs 6,100 pounds. The 
<:enterboard houses entirely below the 
cabin floor, the draught being 4 feet 6 
inches, and 8 feet with the board down. 
The aim of the designer is to combine 
racing and cruising qualities — a much- 
to-be-desired combination, never to be 
completely attained, I fear. 

THE END. 




P O M M E R Y 

"SEC" (A Very Dry Wine.) ''BRUT" (No Sweetening Whatever. 

The 

Standard for 

Champagne 

Quality. 



CHAMPAGNE 



WHITES 

YACHT AGENCY 


EUGENE 


WHITE. Troprietor 



OFFICE for SELLING, CHARTERING and 
PURCHASING YACHTS and BOATS OF 
EVERY DESCRIPTION ^ DESIGNS and 

ESTIMATES FURNISHED ^ Term^ Moderate 



11 EAST BROADWAY 

(Chatham Square) NEW Y O R. K 





Air Whistles 

FOR YACHTS and LAUNCHES 



A powerful Air Whistle, shrill 
and far-reaching. Indispensable 
in fog or stormy night. Either 
fixed or portable. Specially adapted for small 
yachts. Prices from $9 00 upward. 

GLEASON=PETERS AIR PUMP CO., 

Houston and Mercer Sts., NEW YORK CITY. 




Established 1840. 

GEO. B. CARPENTER & CO. 




Yacht Sailmakers 

and dealers in every yachting requisite. We have all 
the new fabrics for racing: sails. Send 6c in stamps for 
our up-to-date catalogue of yacht fittings and supplies, 
or 4c in stamps for catalogue of tents, etc. 

Tents, Camp Furniture and Flags. 

802-208 South Water Street, CHICAGO. 



SPAR COATING 




TRADE MARK. 



A PERFECT FINISH 

FOR ALL WOODWORK, SPARS AND 
IRONWORK EXPOSED TO EXCESSIVE 
CHANGES IN WEATHER AND TEM- 
PERATURE. 



EDWARD SMITH Sc CO. 

VARNISH MAKERS AND COLOR GRINDERS 

45 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 



Alfred B. Sands & Son, 




JVlarine and 

Yacht 

Plumbers. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Marine and Yacht Plumbing Specialties. 



PUMP 



wAtercJlosets 



For Above or Below 
Water=tline. 




REPAIR WORK A SPECIALTY. 



134 Beekman Street, New York, 



TELEPHONE, 818— JOHN STREET. 



iH^rRl^'^Y 0"^ CONGRESS 



I 



029 726 958 6 




